4g61t.org

i just got my car back with the new engine in it and the guys that put the engine in cant figure out what it is! it revs not too bad on the spot, driving very quietly its ok, then as soon as i give it some gas it starts missing horribly and feels like its trying to go backwards and just wont boost at all! actually it does build boost but has no pull whatsoever. its a rs vr4 engine with evo6 560cc injectors, td05h 16g and evo3 air flow meter, dont have any fancy engine management, just got a eprom ecu chipped to suit the injectors and air flow meter. lastnight i wired in the old 61t afm plug back in to the loom, plugged a standard vr4 afm in & plugged in a standard vr4 ecu with no chip to see how it went... was probably worse if anything! idles for a little then stalls. the dudes that put it in put the 61t coilpack and leads on the new engine? they were ok on the 61t but i dont know if that makes a difference or not? i dont know what to do! i paid a shitload for these idiots fcuking around with my car and they still couldnt get it going! any suggestions guys? its soo frustrating! i want boost!

I would get a coil pack made for a 4G63T and put it on, then check your spark plugs. See if they need to be replaced and see what they are gapped to. Also, I would see how your spark plug wires are doing. Put the chipped ECU back in, along with the air meter and injectors it is chipped for. I would also invest in an SAFCII, to help tune it out a bit. Then see how it runs... good luck.

The 4G61T mass airflow sensor is setup for the wrong HZ range for the ECU to be in the right "bandwidth" of delivering it's timing maps and fuel accomodation based on those signals. 4G63 MAF, ECU and Injectors should all be used at the same time. If you are chipped for the EVO 3 MAF, then you must use it, and burned timing for the 560 cc injectors, etc etc. There is no way around that, so most likely you have some issues with your setup.

Boost leak test
Injector resistor installed with your swap?
Spark plug wires tested for resistance, or arcing check?
Knock sensor installed, wired in and tightened to the block properly - not over tight or undertight?

List everything you have installed on the motor and what type of car they came from. Maybe we can narrow down your issue a little more.
Oh, and do you have a datalogger of some sort yet?

ok i have installed..

evo3 big 16g
evo 3 o2 sensor (i think)
evo6 560cc inj
evo3 afm
na 4g63 throttlebody
na 4g63 intake manifold
i THINK they put the 4g61t cam angle sensor on?
and a eprom ecu with that chip for the afm & injectors.

i think thats all, maybe some other little bits and pieces, il keep thinkin. i just rang the local dyno tuning place and the dude reckons chipped ecu's are bullshit and has had alot of people come to them with the same problem, and said how can he write a chip for me without seeing my cars readings on the dyno or a datalogger etc? (no i dont have one) he said they could put my car on the dyno and remap my ecu and tune it up for round a grand or else go the good option and get a standalone ecu and installed and tuned for around 2grand, either way they would get it running mint he said, but im dead broke now after spending bulk money getting the engine put in and being ridiculously overcharged. also i noticed after i picked the car up the speedo needle had gone all jittery, and found out today that something is definately wrong coz i drove it trying all different rev ranges, ya can get some boost out of it after 4500rpm but it hits LAUNCH CONTROL at 5500 whilst driving! a mate of mine had the same problem with his chipped ecu from the same guy but that was because he had a non turbo guage cluster in his car. anyway my car doesnt go and i needa sort it out. help very much appreciated

im pretty sure its overfueling hardout cos can always smell fuel and heaps of it too!

I would send the ECU to DSMchips.com, and have it re-chipped. They are very reliable and their stage 3 chip is only $150. Apparently perhaps this guy did not do a very good job on your ECU, since other people saw the same problem from him. And get some sort of logger to see what's going on with your engine, that would really help you sort out your problems.

When the guys put the engine in did they do anything with the timing belt? I had a garage years ago change mine and I think it was the intake cam was not lined up properly. It wouldnt start the best and wouldnt get over 4 or 5000 rpms. Just a thought.

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- Works in da bush

You can get a chip setup that is VERY close to what you will have in the end with some minor fuel tuning. I would maybe look into having a local CSM/DSM nut close to you, take a look at your car. It may be that the chip is good, and something else is not hooked up or working properly. Heck, you could have a FPR that is overfuelling the injectors. Lots of variables need to be sorted out, so seek some local help with low buck funds and a little know-how, then if needed, go see the big boys. There is no reason to go standalone, when you can have a proper setup that will run right with what you have when all is said an done.

Any locals from the NZ board close to you?

um they said they set the timing i dont know if they did anything else though. also when i recieved the engine for the first time i noticed someone had adjusted the exhaust cam, i cant remember which way it was turned. it has hks adj cam gears but still unsure if it has the standard cams in it still or not sometimes its real lumpy and sometimes not as much, but that could be due to the exhaust cam being out of whack?

oh ok yeah, nah none of the nz forum dudes are near me, one that has sold his mirage and doesnt go on there anymore, (im guessing is not interested now) and the next closest is 5hrs away so no go with that. i know a few dudes with vr4s etc but dont have a whole lot of knowledge more than i do. apart from one dude who works as a mechanic claims he knows everything about these types of cars and claims he has the fastest 4g61t lancer in new zealand that does 10sec quarters! wait, wait, get this... he says he runs a td05h 16g and standard 390cc 4g61t injectors! man, some people aye cant help themselves. anyway the guy that did my ecu chip for me just called me and said he did a lil research on the 560s i have and said they flow more like 610!? another guy from 4g61nz said he had a similar rich runnin problem with pretty much the same setup as me, with an ecu chip from the same gut. anyway after reading that about the injector flow, he said he will burn me another chip to suit and it should run nicely. im hoping its as simple as that and nothing major!! ...???

Haha this sounds very familiar.

List of things to check -
-Intercooler pipe leaks
-Evo AFM wired up correctly (check, check, and recheck this one!)
-Injector resistor pack and knock sensor wired up correctly (some people run their cars without these, mine ran like a bag of shit until I wired them in)

Are you reusing your old BOV?

Does it give you a check engine light?

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1990 C83A 4WD 4G63T powered hatch - [PSIBRG]
1992 JZX91 2JZ powered Toyota Mark II

yeah i check checked and re re-checked the afm wiring! i dont know where the injector resistor pack or knock sensor are located, or even what to look for ha! and yeah i am using my old bov it was fine on old engine, had only had it on for a couple of months, just a greddy style rs jobby. and yeah im getting a check engine light. it has a funky idle too and when the idle started playing up on my old 61t thats when the check engine light came alive. the dudes that put my engine mismatched heaps of shit off my old 61 like CAS, leads and even coilpack i think! TPS probably too! maybe why my idles all messed up. plugs are super fouled up from the other night runnin standard vr4 ecu with no chip, i could actually get it to boost fully and rev right out smoothly though felt like my old 61t was faster. anyway got a new chip tonight for my ecu with injector compensation for around 600cc flow, cleaned up my spark plugs and fired it up, now it runs like absolute shit, feels like its runnin on 3 cylinders (probably is!) im guessing my plugs are burnt out or something? hmmm...

Buy new plugs.

Injector resistor pack is a small silver box, should be bolted to your firewall (passenger side) and I think has 5 wires coming out of it. Knock sensor is on the firewall side of your block, 2 wires coming out of it, one goes to the ECU (pin 9) and the other goes to ground I think.

Like Mr Eagle says, buy new plugs. Also get an LED light and pull ECU error codes from the diagnostic port (the plug with nothing plugged into it, hidden up by your accelerator pedal). Theres plenty of how-to's on here and google.

Don't worry. You will get this sorted! A few months ago my car seemed like problem after problem, was frustrating getting it out of the driveway and realising it doesn't have enough power to move itself, dying in the middle of the road etc, thought i'd never get it sorted. Now it runs sweet bar a few minor things like piping, radiator leak, running too rich, error code 13 etc.

Heres an inj resistor pack:




And heres a list of error codes:

1 ECU Dead
9 Normal
11 Oxygen sensor
12 Air Flow sensor
13 Intake Air temperature sensor
14 Throttle Position Sensor
15 Idle Speed control
21 Coolant Temp Sensor
22 Crank angle Sensor
23 TDC Sensor
24 Vehicle Speed Sensor
25 Barometric pressure sensor (MAS)
31 Knock Sensor
32 MAP sensor faulty
36 Ignition Timing adjustment failure
39 Front oxygen sensor
41 Fuel injector failure
42 Fuel pump or circuit
43 EGR
44 Ignition Coil
55 Idle Air control
59 Rear oxygen sensor
61 ECM and transmission interlock
62 Induction control valve
69 Right rear oxygen sensor
71 Traction control
72 Traction control

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1990 C83A 4WD 4G63T powered hatch - [PSIBRG]
1992 JZX91 2JZ powered Toyota Mark II

sard FPR was installed today. chipped ecu in. had the fuel pressure set at factory psi (38ish i was told) was running as per usual, cutting and bogging dwn. so we turned the pressure down a few psi, ran a lil better, still same sorta scenario though, turned it down a couple more psi, ran a lil better, still average, turned down to 25psi now and runs smooth, same sorta deal as on the non chipped ecu, boosts smooth but takes aages to get up there and still doesnt feel very fast, (fancy cams do sacrifice bottom end for savage top end too though right?, so could be a combo of too rich, cams, fcukd intake air temprature sensor etc etc?) and im hitting launch control at 5500rpm (yet to sort out, and yes i have a turbo guage cluster. my speedo needle is all shakey now after engine was put in.. hmm.. something to do with new gearbox maybe? was a non facelift gvr4 box running 3.545 ratio. had to change the selector mounts) ...anyways i diddnt want to turn the fuel pressure down any more incase it leans out. so still think its running real rich (unsure) but will find out when i datalog it i guess. no more funky idle now either just nice lumpy hks rumble! ahh.

pulled the ecu error code, i got 13, which is air intake temprature sensor right? and thats in the afm right? after i got told that, i clicked! when i recieved the package in the mail with the afm in it, a dude at work dropped it then kicked it the fcukn idiot. i diddnt think anything of it at the time. but theyre quite delicate arent they. so that is another thing to try, AFM!! mines probably nafd after thinkin back on that!...........