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Ok, I tried searching, but came up empty handed. I have a hellacious rear wheel bearing noise in my car, and the time has come to remedy the problem. (sounds like the hum of a bad roller bearing) Im sure that it is straightforward enough to do, but if anyone has done this before, any hints or suggestions before I brave the Wisconsin winter elements would be greatly appreciated! The car still has rear drums if that makes any difference. Im assuming I just need to get new bearings and seals? (lest not mention hearty amounts of brakleen and grease)
regards,
Paul
91 Colt

Easy to do. Pop the cap, remove the nut, and everything will slide off. (dont leave the parking brake on )

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04' Olds Alero
91' Colt GL hatchback
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Lots of little s#@t

Excellent! Thanks for the info! Now, where are my gloves and hat....
regards,
Paul
91 Colt

be prepared $22 apiece and 2 per wheel and you need a press to get the race out of the hub

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if you ain't livin on the edge your taking up to much space

Good time to check for rust on the lips of the drums .... gotta hate that on/off squeak sound

(This setup as on my car (1992 Dodge Colt 200 Hatch 1.5L)

Type 1 (1991-2 Colt Hatchback and sedan)
If you have the integral bearing hub/drum setup you will have to tighten the nut to a final torque of 108-145 ft/lbs while turning the drum to seat the bearing(s) properly. You will need a 30mm socket to get the nut on/off. You will also need a press to remove the races as "mykelmirage" noted previously.
(Taken from Chilton Colt/Vista 1990-1993 repair manual)

Type 2 (1991-2 Colt Hatchback and sedan)
[2 options I've found]

This setup is a non-integral hub to drum assembly.
The drum comes off after you pull your wheel off. Your hub is bolted down separately.
(Taken from Chilton Colt/Vista 1990-1993 repair manual)

(Option 1)cotter pin model
You will have to deal with a different torque specification of 14 ft/lbs, then rotate drum to seat bearing. Back off nut and retighten to 89 in/lbs and replace lock cap and cotter pin.
(Taken from brakes.pdf listed below)

(Option 2)non-cotter pin model (see type 1 above for torque spec)


This link should give you an idea of what you're looking at, courtesy of Berserko

http://www.geocities.com/berserko_1/c50/brakes.pdf
(and anything else you might break and want to fix.

If anyone see's something wrong with what I posted let me know. We all want good info afterall

Thanks a TON for the update guys! I questioned whether I should post about it at first, but definetely worth my while to eliminate the little annoying 'suprises' I would've inevitably encountered. I definetely need to go get myself a manual for this car. Which reminds me...Props to Beserko for the technical info as well.
You guys Rock!
regards,
Paul

Try this shortcut for info on manuals that I posted earlier.

http://www.4g61t.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... ht=manuals

I know this is SUPER old. Do we have this info anywhere?
After the sun rises, Im going to see what I find for a rear wheel noise.