Another Update if any of you are actually following this.
I got the car finished and on the road with finding all kind of problems.
Problem 1, Shift linkage doesnt have enough throw on the trans side of the cables at the 2,4, and R. I was told to cut the trans shifter arm that rotates about a vertical axis.
I am trying to work out a different solution and also determine what parts all do I have. We know I have 89 gt cables which were adjustable. I currently have a colt trans arm on for the one that bolts to the trans. I believe I have a 1.5 5speed colt trans side cable holder Trans side. I also think I have a colt gt shifter??, but it has been shimmed big time. The Shifter is shimmed really high to make it almost level (is it still sloping down in the front).
From my discussion with Thomcasey, it looks like my car was auto and converted to manual when the 4g63 went in.
What Shifter Do I have??
This is what second gear looks like in the inside, Notice I have the double coupler on there trying to get extra through. I still don't have full engagement.
2nd Gear
1st Gear
So if I read 89Mirageman right he was saying use the dsm arm that is pictured below but drill a hole where I have the red circle. Tap with threads and tread the bolt through the bolt. Use the bolt as my peg for the shift cables. Then just thread a nut on the top of the bolt, not tight. This will bring the about of travel needed to fully engage 2, 4 and rev down. Any thoughts???? There will be more planning to it to insure the hole is line up so I get full 2,4, and rev engagement
PROBLEM 2 The driver side cv axle keeps poping out at the trans. It did this a couple of times while driving and sound horrible and jerked me around. I talk once again to THOMCASEY (very helpful and really appreciate his help). He said I could run a awd driver side cv axle with the midshaft that has a bearing that attaches to the block. I plan on doing this. If anyone has some comments to throw in I am more than willing to listen. Also, I don't know what is currently on the car. It looks new and assumed it was a turbo colt but from talks it sounds like a regular colt gt N/A.
PROBLEM 3 My hks standard wastegate has to be open. I was running 0psi. I also seemed to have a bad maf so I ordered speed density today. I also found a knockoff hks standard wastegate that I will try to use. I need something and all my other options are $500plus besides going internal. I found out my wastegate the hks already had was softer than the wastegate spring I ordered (8psi).
PROBLEM 4 NO REAL POWER BRAKES. The pedal was not going to the floor, but was just not stopping us very well. I couldn't stop the car without nailing the ebrake on a 15% grade hill. Found this out when dropping off the car at the bottom of the hill at the exhaust shop. I didn't check like an idiot the Brake booster. I am assuming this is the problem. I could be driving the car with perfect a/f at 12 and then push the clutch in and nail the brakes to try to stop and the car would die. It would idle all day at 12 a/f. Thought???? I know that I need to sit in it with the car off and pump the brakes until they are to the top and then start the car with my foot on the brake. I know my foot is suppose to lower pretty quickly. Keep in mind I am 3.5 hours from the car during the week.
Exhaust is now on as of an hour ago. I will get pictures this weekend since working on my car and not going to shootout seems like what I will be doing.
PROBLEM 5 We would tune the car in and it wouldn't run rich or lean, then all of the sudden it would just go lean randomly while driving. Every time we would make an adjustment it would flip out and do something else. My tuner said he hates MAF. Well, the MAF didn't really fit as you can see from the pictures. So I went ahead and ordered speed density today cause Racecar. Looks like I will be just using the dsmlink. So I will most likely have a apexi safc II laying around soon.
So the progress I did make was a lot more work than I would have guessed.
The radiator fan and intercooler pump is wired by 2 different switches. My gauges are hooked on 1 switch in the glove box. I got the gauge pod installed and the wideband installed. I then found out that they have a wideband that is plug and play with LC-1. I didn't see that option on dsmlink webpage. Maybe it doesn't apply to us since my tuner works on a lot of junk. He did get great laughs at my rattle box. He tuned a sti at over 400hp the day before. Needless to say he is not very impressed with my rattle can yet, didn't help I had no boost. I got the water lines connected to the intercooler but didn't do a leak test yet. I also have a small oil leak which is crap cause when I assembled everything and drove it the first time around the block, I had no leaks the next morning. I think accidentally made the comment that is a first. lol