Wonder if you and I should do the standing/clutch in/1st gear/6-7000 RPM test to see if the car moves forward at all, on level ground and no brake.
I'll check mine tomorrow!
I was having syncro issues, so switched to another KM210. Was better but couldn't shift high RPM at all without really pushing that shifter.
So, I installed urethane mounts at all four corners, and it helped tons. Still not what I would call a double syncro shift, but I've only taken the car to 6-7000 RPM for two short instances, while burning the tires a bit. Had to see how it would perform. I've had third lockout once, while showing the higher RPM to a friend. My solution was to pickup a used, built F5M33. I just tore it down to change out to a limited insert diff, and pull the overheated welded center diff. I need to swap shifter arms and brackets. You learn a whole bunch about the condition of the gears and dog teeth when you get inside the trans. I could recommend taking the trans apart and see how it looks. Bitch to pull it out I know. With 12 and 14mm sockets, a big breaker bar/ratchet and a 36mm socket, you can tear the fifth assembly loose and get the case separated. Even used a MAC wiper arm remover and some spacers to pull fifth and fifth intermediate gears off, went to VFAQ for that one. KM210 should be almost identical in this regard. I found lots of metal chips in my trans .... dog teeth from reverse and some other gears. Even have a chipped 5th gear tooth.
So, I have a nearly antique car that shifts better into second than my 2004 Passat 1.8T. Gear clash at low RPM, tells me shaft speed is too high and syncros must be wearing out. I could be wrong, but I can't feel any issue into 3rd or 4th or 5th.
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