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You guys know I am having a problem somewhere.

I HAVE to know right now if, in a completely sealed hydraulic clutch system, is it possible to PUSH the ROD back into the slave and it still returns out every time? No one touched on this in my original post....though I bled the whole system, opened the drain slightly, pushed the rod into the slave and locked the drain nut, it still wants to push out automatically. I FIGURED there was something fishy about that.....no one else thought so? PLEASE give me your expert knowledge, cause right now I am straight f--ked if this doesn't get resolved.

I'm sorry....just under a tremendous amount of stress right now.

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I touched it in your original post. I told you it was normal.

Here, I made this for you. Did the pulley help?

Maybe I didn't read it...sorry. I quickly edited the post and deleted that question after I posted the video link.

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Well here; I quickly edited my post.

I should add that if you can't get enough slave cylinder travel to release the clutch, you may need to tighten (lengthen) the master cylinder rod, at the top of the pedal. Tighten it as long as you can make it, without blocking the bypass hole to the reservoir. If you have it too tight, you won't be able to push back on your slave piston anymore. That would be too tight.

If you still don't get enough, you may have to adjust the stopper/criuse switch at the top of the pedal, so the pedal comes up higher, then re-adjust your master rod longer again.

If you have room between where the pedal touches the floor, and where the clutch becomes more than "slightly engaged", then I would suspect the hydraulic system adjustment is not the issue, and probably would not go as far as adjusting the criuse switch.

Information about the slave cylinder helps and makes sense...Thank you! And yes, my pulley is as straight as an arrow, and that is going to be great.

However, I drove out here on a new battery and a dying alternator. Battery has 12.89 volts, and I just replaced the alternator with the good one Whe3ls gave me a while back....but the EXACT situation occured with my old Colt. Batteries can say they are good, but if you ran it on a dying alternator then the battery is actually toast on the inside. Hope that made sense.

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On what you said about adjustment...heard. I'm starting to suspect something wrong with the clutch as far as the engagement issue. In any case, I'll make one last ditch effort to extend the adjustment rod to the max to see if it makes any difference.

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Good stuff - trucks bring it!

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

^^^ Thank you, also. I need to find a helper in this town to do it the proper way.

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Good stuff - trucks bring it!

Take the bleeder screw out of the slave to Autozone and see if you can get a Speed Bleeder so you can do it by yourself. I do not know if there is a Speed Bleeder in that size but if there is it would certainly make the process much easier.