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I've got an 89 Mirage 1.6t. Heres the issue I'm having. When I go out in the morning to start my car, I turn the key and have to wait almost 5 minutes for the car to start, its almost like the fuel pump isnt kicking on, after about 5 minutes I hear a click under the dash the check engine light kicks on and the car starts fine. Now once I get the car started its runs fine, idles perfectly until it gets up to normal temperature. Once it reaches temperature it starts idling crazy almost like it has a big looping cam in it then it develops a horrible miss the check engine light kicks on, then goes off and the miss goes away for a few seconds then comes back. A mechanic told me it was over heating, so i replaced my radiator hoses thermostat, bled the system of air, this didnt do anything. Ive put in new ngk plugs and plug wires, checked the coils and i'm getting a good spark. Has anyone had this problem, I need to get this figured out asap. Please HELP!

Have you had the CEL scanned? The ECU will tell you exactly what is wrong and consequently what needs replaced. DO NOT take your car back to that mechanic.

I've taken it to a few different placed to get the codes pulled and they wouldnt do it because they said "the check engine light has to be on for us to pull the codes". I work for a national auto parts supplier and I know that isnt true, but they wont even hook it up, so it looks like im going to have to do it myself.

Where are you located? Evotistical will eventually tell you to add your location per the rules. I have a factory scanner. If you are close I will certainly scan it.

Sounds like the ecu itself is on the way out. You can check the code yourself with an analog volt meter, just count the sweeps of the needle and look up the code online. When you first switch the car on, does the CEL come on?

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

Just got done doing the cel scan I've got 3 errors,
Air Flow Sensor
Air Intake Temperature Sensor
Barometric Pressure Sensor
Did some research I guess I'm gonna need another ecu?
Anybody got one they wanna get rid of?

Well heres the deal I have to wait like 5 minutes for the check engine light to come on after I've turned the key on once the light kicks on I can start the car, but its letting me check the cel codes.

I have an ecu for sale http://www.4g61t.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=66&t=34403 pm me if interested

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Dale
2003 G35 coupe is mah girl, no more DSM/CSM's :(

Just to help everyone out when checking codes, you can use a digital multimeter to get the codes just set it to the continuity setting and when it pulses your meter will beep, thats how I pulled mine cause I couldn't find anyone with a Analog meter.

You definitely need an ECU man. The fun part is finding one that is good and getting it to last if you do find one.

YAY! With the way my lucks been this week its good it wasn't something else. I work for advance auto parts and my cost for a reman is still 250! But all goes as expected one will be on its way friday.

Getting a remanufactured one is a good idea. Just a costly good idea... LOL

I have seen some terrible work done on some of those reman ecu's. There would be holes in the board where acid ate through and they would solder a wire from one trace to another. No wonder they put a sticker over the case and tell you not to open it up, they're scared that you'll see their work.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

Good news swapped in the ecu I got from Dale, everything is back to normal, actually runs better now than it did when I bought it. Took the old ecu apart, and the board just in front of the center plug in is completely burnt, which would probably explain everything. New question, should I do the gm maf swap or do you guys have another suggestion.

Are you using ECMLink or any other tuning platform? I prefer the 2g MAF over the GM MAF. Or Speed Density if you have ECMLink.