The rear end is like mirageman said. Take the control arms off the CSM and weld them to the DSM. They are different lengths so its important to size it EXACT. When my dad first welded it in it was off by 1/16th to one side and it drove down the road sideways feelin. That part of the swap is pretty straight forward. No real complicated stuff.
The front is a whole different story. Let me see if I can remember this right. You use the DSM hub and spindle with the CSM control arms. If you want to use DSM axles now they fit perfect. We kept the CSM axles by getting a different grease seal.
The next problem is the tie rod ends are too short on the CSM compared to the DSM and it makes the wheels look like this: \ / from above. To solve this the INNER part of the steering column that attaches to the rack is 1/2" longer than the CSM. So you swap just that inner rod (bolts right on) and it fixes the steering issue.
Next you will have is the steering jumping around on bumps from the tie rods connecting on different sides between the CSM and DSM. This is from where the tie rod attaches to the spindle. The CSM and DSM mount on different sides and it wont just fit in. It is on a special taper to just drilling through isn't a good idea either. He bought the special taper tool for $90 from the auto parts to drill it on the bottom like the DSM uses.
Lastly you need to slot the struts to allow them to pivot so your camber is right or the wheel will look like \ from the front. After that the car is basically 100% DSM from the steering to the hubs.
I will try to get some pictures next time the car is apart which should be soon. That is the description of what was done. The hard part as always is the modification of EVERYTHING. It seems to work pretty good now. Its been on the car for 2-3 months with no issues. Next that car is getting a 4g64 in April. Should be fun then