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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 12:09 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Sun Apr 06, 2008 12:35 am
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Location: Mary Esther, FL
Well i see some side metal wear in the belt so I think I am going to go ahead and change it out before the worst scenario happens. So whats a good timing belt to go with? I figured just OEM would be best but wanted to get some opinions. I am not making big power or anything so I dont need a upgraded belt. Also any other good tips to know for the removal/reinstall? And any parts that I need to replace for the job. thanks as always


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 12:26 pm 
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Some call me a god
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Joined: Tue Nov 21, 2006 12:08 pm
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
OEM


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 12:26 pm 
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Location: San Diego, CA.
Quote:
Well i see some side metal wear in the belt so I think I am going to go ahead and change it out before the worst scenario happens. So whats a good timing belt to go with? I figured just OEM would be best but wanted to get some opinions. I am not making big power or anything so I dont need a upgraded belt. Also any other good tips to know for the removal/reinstall? And any parts that I need to replace for the job. thanks as always
.

I run cheapo belts in all my cars (except my current Eclipse), and I've never had a problem. OEM Mitsu is the best way to go, there's no reason to get a Kevlar belt unless you plan on revving past 9,000rpm on a regular basis. Make sure you change the balance shaft belt too and the water pump if you're in there.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 12:31 pm 
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Some call me a god
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I put a cheap belt from a local auto parts store called ITP or something like that. I had a small leak on the front crank seal and it wasnt even bad enough to spot on the ground. Well the oil got onto the belt, and the teeth came right off in an oily spot and bent all my freakin valves. This belt was only on about 4 days too.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 12:36 pm 
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Location: San Diego, CA.
I've always used Bando belts, which are OEM for Honda I'm told. Never had a problem, but also never had an oil leak onto the belt. It's tough for me to spend the money on an OEM belt when I work at an auto-parts store and get 10% over-cost on everything.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 12:40 pm 
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Oem t-belt, oem b-shaft belt, and oem hydraulic tensioner is how I usually do it.

waterpump, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, balance shaft belt tensioner pulley also need to be replaced at the same time but can be non-oem if need be. This is how I've done it the past 6years.

to get the steps/tips consult vfaq or a service manual


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 1:35 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

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Location: Mary Esther, FL
Alright going to just go with OEM then. Its a 1.6 so no balance shaft belt. Going to go ahead and replace the water pump, too. I was going to go ahead and retard the exhaust cam 1 tooth too because I heard it brings the car to life. But I have an extra 4g63 exhaust cam I could put in it also. If so would I retard the 4g63 cam 1 tooth to or keep it at base? Which setup would make the most power?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 1:48 pm 
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I was going to go ahead and retard the exhaust cam 1 tooth too because I heard it brings the car to life. But I have an extra 4g63 exhaust cam I could put in it also. If so would I retard the 4g63 cam 1 tooth to or keep it at base? Which setup would make the most power?
One tooth on a cam gear is equal to like 7 degrees or something. I would not recommend doing that. I'm not sure who told you the "car comes alive" when you do that, but I don't think that's true at all. I forgot which combo works the best, but the car will run smoothest by just installing the 4G63 cam.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 1:55 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

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Location: Mary Esther, FL
alright i'll just put the DSM cam in. I have DSM/CSM guru guy back home in Indiana that told me to retard it one tooth. He said it makes a world of wonders on a stock 1.6....


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 3:09 pm 
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I've fixed a couple home done timing belt jobs where the timing was off one tooth(both retard/advance). All it did was make the car run rough and idle poorly. I would stick timing where it's supposed to be.

If you want to make more power. Play with the CamPos sensor. Advance a little at a time until you get knock...

If you try it anyway. Let us know how it goes...I'm interested


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 3:31 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

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Location: Mary Esther, FL
Ok I will let you know. I am going to give him a call and ask him so more about it. I remember he said it does change the idle some but it suppose to spool the car up faster.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 3:51 pm 
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Ok I will let you know. I am going to give him a call and ask him so more about it. I remember he said it does change the idle some but it suppose to spool the car up faster.
Because spool isn't quick enough on an otherwise stock 1.6? Haha. You have a larger turbo on there, right? You should just get real cams.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 5:21 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

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Location: Mary Esther, FL
yeah but i am cheap lol. i like homemade horsepower lol. its just a 16g nothing fancy I took my 50 trim off.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 5:47 pm 
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The happy administrator
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Location: Wisconsin
OEM


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 9:48 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
1.6L has a shorter belt due to deck height, do not get a 2.0L part by accident, make sure within the same brand they are different part numbers! :wink:


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