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I was wondering if there is anything I can do to extract the codes from the ECU in this Colt? My check engine light is on and every once in a while it won't start (no spark). I figured it was my distributor so I bought one from a junk yard, swapped it and nothing. Still no spark. So I figured it was either my ICM, replaced it and nothing. So I returned that and got another ECU, replaced it and nothing. I can't figure it out. Maybe the other distributor that I got was bad to start with. But anyway, I figure that the check engine light is going to tell me something that I should know. Problem is is that I can't figure out how to extract and decypher the codes. If someone can tell me, I would greatly appreciate it. By the way, the car is a 92 Colt with the 4G15 and a 4 speed.

Lilevo.com will get you along rather nicely, and if you want more, try this link: http://www.geocities.com/berserko_1/c50/

Here's something funny. My 92 Colt 4G15 with the four speed at 80 MPH on the highway. Probably around 5 or 6 grand, lol. I don't have a tach and this car is BASE (except for the 12v motor). But I do only have 67,000 miles on it.

Still having this problem. Now I believe that it's the ignition coil. Does anyone know where it's located? Is it on the back of the block or what???

Try another known working ecu. That's what all the symptoms point to.

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

If you have the distributor on the front passenger side of the cylinder head, then you have your coil inside the distributor and the transistor mechanism is inside as well.

If you have an led light with resistor inline, follow the links I posted up top to get you to the diagnosis terminal (DLC) down by your left foot/fuse panel. Find the appropriate pins and put the key in the ignition. Follow the steps on either LilEvo.com or Berserko's Geocities site, and you will have strobes of the led lighting it up, like morse code; long's and shorts, and pauses. This is how you read the CEL on the cheap.

I do. But I've had the distributor off and it doesn't look anything like my Honda distributor did inside. I know we are talking apples and oranges here but it can't be that different.
Just wondering, what size LED and what size resistor? Also what size wiring would I need to do this? This is the first time I've ever played with this car and I just want to get it running correctly. The coil that I have listed on Autozone looks like an external and it looks like it mounts somewhere. I replaced the coil on my Honda once and I know where it went but does it also go in the same place on the Mitsu distributor? As in in the upper portion of it?

You cannot get a replacement aftermarket coil for the stock distributor, without modifying the unit; this is a dealer only thing, or find one from a member. I have 2 spares distributors and 1 mint 12V 1.5L ECU lying around if it comes to it, PM if you need them ....

Any size wiring can be used, but you need to get mini plug on connectors to plug into the DLC or solder on some pins to contact the 2 terminals you need to power up the led. Any 12v automotive led setup will work and should be available at a local Electronics shop - complete with resistor inline or otherwise installed by the factory it was made by. This circuit carries little to no current so even the dinkiest speaker wire can be used here.

OK, here's the update. I installed a BRAND NEW distributor. The car fired right up. But after sitting for the last couple of days, it won't start. No spark again. So what I am going to do is put the 4G37 ECU, MAF, Injectors, and TB in it and see if it really was the ECU or the wiring harness. My uncle's a douche and took a few parts off of the car to test them on his buddies Eagle Summit and I think he might have stretched some of the wires somewhere and maybe screwed them up somehow. I was driving down the road the other day and the O2 sensor came out of the manifold. He took it out and tested it too. Well when he put it back in, he forgot to mention to me that he stripped out the bung in the header. Shit makes me mad. I have an 89 CRX with a full JDM swap sitting here that I've put so much time into and I can't drive the SOB because of the busted windshield and a small amount of rust. This car's been such a pain in the ass that I don't know if I want to put any more money/time into it. We'll see how it plays out once my other parts get here.

OK, once more, here's the latest. It's ALIVE!!! I got all the parts from the 4G37 and installed them on my 4G15 and man does it really open it up. My ECU was the problem. When I parked the car to do the install, it wouldn't start back up. Then I installed the injectors, the TB, the MAF, and the ECU and BAM the car fired right up. It revs alot faster and has alot more bottom end. Also, my check engine light is out for the first time in two years. So apparently my ECU was fried...or my MAF. Whichever one it was, it's fixed thanks to 89mirageman.

Glad I could help man! Wow, only 67k Good find.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual