4g61t.org

Hey,

Before you jump on me, yes I have searched haha.

Alrighty, i'm currently having a 4G61T motor built to go into my Cyborg. It's basically complete, just need to finish off the head and then do cambelt etc, but before the head is put together, i'm trying to decide what to do about the cams.

I have a set of 4G63T cams out of a VR-4 that I have passed onto my engine builder. I've done a bit of reading on here and heres what i've found -


1) Use 4G61T intake cam, and install the 4G63T exhaust cam retarded 1 tooth.

2) Use a 4G63T intake cam. Set it straight up. Keep the 4G61T exhaust cam but retard it 4-6 degrees.

3) Use both 4G63T cams. Set both straight up.


Now from what i've read, most people seem to have gone for option number 1? I've only heard of one person doing option 3, was a guy from the 4G61NZ forums, but I can't remember who it was and I don't think he posts there anymore. From memory he said it opened up top end alot and helped the turbo spool quicker.

Basically i'm wanting to hear from people who have done any of the 3 options to help me decide which one would be best for me.

Cheers

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1990 C83A 4WD 4G63T powered hatch - [PSIBRG]
1992 JZX91 2JZ powered Toyota Mark II

As far as I can remember I have 2.0L cams in my 4g61t and when I installed the set of 1.6L cams, it really choked things up top, like alot! Keep in mind I reinstalled all the 4g61t stock control equipment to suit after confirming the cam installed was good, and you could really tell the difference. It couldn't hurt to install the 2.0L cams straight up (for good vacuum purposes at idle) just as I have done, but I have no dyno numbers to back up my butt dyno theory. I know the Colorado crew must have something to add here because I've seen them campaign 1.6t with stock internals past 300HP, and then start making changes. I haven't evere recommended the exhaust cam retarding just because enough people have jumped teeth while attempting this mod. You'll get more than enough power to walk on people without worrying about power at 7000RPM. Let the turbo and in the case of a new taller trans gearing, do the talking for you!

We got 302 hp on stock internal 61t/E3B16G using '91 DSM cams. Intake straight up and exhaust retarded 1 tooth. We tried them both straight up and they give a slight top end advantage...very slight only making 1-2 hp more from 7,000 to 7,500 rpms. Retarding the exhaust cam gave us much better off boost power and quicker spool with very little lost up top. This was still on a 1.6 head, t/b and intake manifold...at 22 psi.

_________________
Turning a 4g61t into 1595 cc's of FURY!
10.995 @ 134.44 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZXvcvzuWGQ

SOLD to the fastest shifting hermaphrodite in CO

Thanks for the responses guys.

In case it matters, the current setup consists of - stock 4G61T block, 4G67 1.8L head, 4G63 N/A intake manifold and TB, TD04L (CD5A GSR) turbo on a 4G61 exhaust manifold. Will be upgrading to a Evo 3 B16G with 6cm exhaust housing and 4G63 exhaust manifold... when funds allow.

I'm after as much off boost power as I can get, and the quicker I can get the B16G spooling, the better... haha. I hear that even with the 6cm hot-side it still wont hit full boost till around the 4500-5000rpm mark, so anything to remedy this is good in my books. So dragstr4g61t, do you reckon I should use both cams and retard the exhaust cam 1 tooth? How did the car idle? Have you ever had the problems that Flying Eagle mentioned?

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1990 C83A 4WD 4G63T powered hatch - [PSIBRG]
1992 JZX91 2JZ powered Toyota Mark II

I have a set of Tighe Stage 2 cams and the specs are almost identical to the HKS 264/272 combo with a few slight variations in ramp rate to suit the short stroke.

These cars idle like crap to begin with but after just a few seconds with the AFC2 we had it purring like a kitten. The larger injectors and 2G maf made the idle worse than the cams did. I'm now running HKS 272's in my 61 and it has a nice lobe but idles at 850-950 just fine.

_________________
Turning a 4g61t into 1595 cc's of FURY!
10.995 @ 134.44 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZXvcvzuWGQ

SOLD to the fastest shifting hermaphrodite in CO

272's are for girls...

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Str8fuct......
11.6 @ 122mph bone stock 4g61t with a 16g brah...

Hmmm, tell me more..
I've never heard of Tighe cams before. How much did they set you back?

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1990 C83A 4WD 4G63T powered hatch - [PSIBRG]
1992 JZX91 2JZ powered Toyota Mark II

yep 280's or go home lol

Sounds like you guys are trying to over compensate for something...

_________________
Turning a 4g61t into 1595 cc's of FURY!
10.995 @ 134.44 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZXvcvzuWGQ

SOLD to the fastest shifting hermaphrodite in CO

sounds like your lacking something...

_________________
Str8fuct......
11.6 @ 122mph bone stock 4g61t with a 16g brah...

werd...

_________________
Str8fuct......
11.6 @ 122mph bone stock 4g61t with a 16g brah...

Any more posturing (ie "acting tough") and I start getting clicky with the "Delete Post" button.

Turning other peoples threads into off-topic slanging matches WILL NOT BE TOLERATED!

Tighe Cams are based in Queensland, Australia and Ivan Tighe is pretty well respected among the local crowd. They only supply new billet cams for our models and they supply to a lot of the local rally teams.

I paid just under AU$1000 (~US$750) for the pair of cams . They stock profiles to suit the 4G6x motors from 262/262s all the way up to 310/310s.

http://www.tighecams.com.au/

Before you buy any cams, you should consider the forced performance cams. They have 4 stages of cams, plus an X stage for the stroker motors. Their cams are cheaper also and have great idle characteristics.