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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 5:23 pm 
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The timing light is unfortunately the best way to go, but you must be able to find someone with a reliable timing light that will hook it on for a few minutes while you dial the timing in with a hot motor and the timing connnector grounded to set the ECU into base timing mode.

Yes, you are advancing TO 7 degrees, not 7 more. :)


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 9:46 pm 
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ok thanks a lot....

:D

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2006 1:59 am 
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succesfully Retarded the cams tonight and after much effort and half a day i am proud to rev my litle 4G15 up to 7100-7250 8)

althogh it still fells as if 'm missing something,,,, :o

maby the honduh behind me :butthead:

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2006 5:06 pm 
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Quote:
succesfully Retarded the cams tonight and after much effort and half a day i am proud to rev my litle 4G15 up to 7100-7250 8)
Wich one you have, 8v or 12v? if you had 8v, how much you retard your cam(s)??

but you say cams, maybe u had 16v G15 :o

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 10, 2006 6:04 pm 
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:rolleyes: My mistake!! i ment cam*.

Sorry poney i have the 12 valve head and i retarded the cam pully by One tooth / 9° .

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2006 3:11 am 
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have someone tried this on 8valve? lots of discussion about cam messing but never no-one talk about 8v.. i would like to hear some results on 8 valve.. :P

i have machined adj. camgear, have someone good idea how i mark some numbers on it? it would be easy adjust if you had stock gear and new both on table and turning that way.. but how you adjust it when its on if you have nothing to see how much.. :o

i have idea to draw 360 degree circle, share that for all those tooths, and then mark "halfs" on each tooth, so i get some scale to adjust. for 4.5 degree accurate.. how about that? if it works, maybe take a sticker of it and clue it on my camgear..

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 10:32 am 
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Quote:
When you retard the cam, the ignition timing will be off. Turning the distributor(on 12 valve at least)as far as it would go wasnt enough. Just mark which ends of the slots are against the adjustment bolts. You need to to lengthen the slots that permit adjustment. I used a dremel with a metal cutting burr. 1/4" should be enough.
Why not just refit the dizzy one tooth out?

I know that when we put the head back on our 4G15, we accidentally did this, and the ignition timing was way out. The adjustment might be too great, but it's worth a try before brandishing the dremel.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 7:15 pm 
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I need fireing order, and how I know to re-time the cam. I moved it with my hand, without the car being at top dead center, and it jumped, and I also can't get the belt on.

I need help on this asap.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2006 9:44 am 
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It's 1-3-4-2 dude. Next time, check the 4G15 FAQ on that one.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 12:35 am 
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Has anyone gone the other way - advancing the cam to give more low-end torque?
Just curious...

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 10:41 am 
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Fastest way to induce ignition problems. You don't go that way as I've never heard of it being done. You go 1 way to account for more fuel and more aggressive spark timing, versus depriving spark of coming in early enough to make power? I've never heard the question posed like this before. :butthead: No harm done. as long as you don't attempt it. :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 2:17 pm 
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Hmm. Was wondering after having a look at this page http://www.symuli.com/vw/camp3.html and reading lines like ...around 3-4 degree advance gives the best all round performance based on peoples experiences.

Just got me thinking - never a good idea :)

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Last edited by Jim A73 on Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:17 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 2:18 pm 
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Sorry, double post...


Last edited by Jim A73 on Thu Feb 01, 2007 12:16 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 10:16 am 
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I know someone's going to flame me for this but are there any pictures floating around here of this being done? I know passing on the highway with 17" rims sucks and I need some more upper range power. I retard the cam gear one tooth (9 degrees retarded) and then advance the distributor until I hit 7 degrees retarded correct? Also, someone mentioned that you have to drill the cam gear? Is this so the keeper will keep it at the timing mark instead of jumping? See man, this is why I always stuck with domestic V-8's in school. They were the easiest to build and even easier to rebuild. :lol:


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