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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 3:34 pm 
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Now Drives a hybrid :(
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2003 10:47 pm
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
me and sutiban (another board member with as 4g15 summit) got some tbs from the junkers from some 1.8 dsms, its only been one night at about 65F outside temp, we didnt reset the ecu in fear that the computer would take longer to relize the new hardware. has anyone had these problems of hunting idle and the rpms slowly hiking(to redline), how do you calm down a 1.8 tb'ed 4g15, we also did a coolant loop bypass( i did this on my old neon with no bad results in cold weather), how long should the ecu take to relize it, should we reset the ecu, should we reset the idle or should we let the ecu learn it all by itself- buy the way we have the 92 year 12v version and 94 tbs. by the way the engine was systematically searching for the best setup(this was cool)the idle hikes would change thier pulse and beat every few seconds it was kinda like music, it slowly change to a different beat about every 10 seconds.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 4:29 pm 
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Location: Waterloo, ON Canada
usually 20 min after a change like that it smartens up...


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 8:46 pm 
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Now Drives a hybrid :(
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
thx man works good now. i ajusted the idle its almost purring like a kitty, low end power is up probly 3 hp, and it dosnt cut out if i start out in first with out raising the rpms.high end didnt gain much but throttle response is instant now.

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Last edited by Evotistical on Tue Nov 04, 2003 8:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 8:56 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Mon Dec 02, 2002 8:26 pm
Posts: 393
how are the gains from the mod? what other mods do you have on the 1.5l?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 9:29 pm 
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Location: KCMO
Did you port the intake as well? If not, do it! You'll get a lot more out of it! You can get a spare manifold from the salvage yard for pretty cheap to work on.

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04' Olds Alero
91' Colt GL hatchback
4g15 12valve 5spd.
4g37 TB, MAF & Injectors. 4g37 ECU
Ported & polished & custom CAI w/K&N filter
5* Cam retard, 7*Ignition advance
2-1/4" catback w/flowmaster muffler
89 GT brake and suspension swap
Lots of little s#@t


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 9:33 pm 
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are there any tb upgrades for my 8v? I've read through everything on this board without a definate answer.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 10:11 pm 
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read everything again i just answered this 2 or 3 days ago...


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 10:26 pm 
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was that the thing about how the 90 style 1.8 tb fits? my memory is all cracked out..


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2003 11:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2003 6:12 pm
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
Quote:
90 4g61 TB and a 90 4g63 TB will also work BUT i have heard horror stores about the 2.0L TB on 4g15's saying its impossible to make idle...
Unless that stuets84 dude surfaces to tell us what 1.8 he got his perfect-fitting TB off of for his 8v, then this is as difinative of an answer as your gonna get.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2003 12:05 am 
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Dont use the coolant bypass trick unless you defeat the FAIV. Also, what kind of idle speed control does your car use as stock?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2003 7:47 am 
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FAIV?

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04' Olds Alero
91' Colt GL hatchback
4g15 12valve 5spd.
4g37 TB, MAF & Injectors. 4g37 ECU
Ported & polished & custom CAI w/K&N filter
5* Cam retard, 7*Ignition advance
2-1/4" catback w/flowmaster muffler
89 GT brake and suspension swap
Lots of little s#@t


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2003 8:40 am 
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Now Drives a hybrid :(
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2003 10:47 pm
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
the bypass trick works perfectly, on your tb there is a metal chanel in wich the coolent passes thru to heat up the throttle body to warm the charge of air on cold mornings(ever remember cold starts in old vehicles , well this is why it was invented) well it works a little too well and you have 300f coolant passing thru it its not good for hp(remember cold air coming in is good for hp, cause colder air is denser so theres more o2 per square inch, more o2, more power) those of you in northern states will not like the bypass trick unless you make a choke{more dense air over populates the fuel causing hard starts(my theory anyway)}.anyway the way to bypass it is just to buy more 3/8 tubing for $4.99(yours probly isnt flexable enough)and loop back with 1 peice... thats it , i dunno what that guy was talking about with the watchamajiggy. any more ?'s pm me.-dave

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2003 10:11 am 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2003 6:12 pm
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
More than likely there are coolant lines running through the lower half of the intake manifold as well. I haven't delved that deep into my 4G15 to really check it out yet, but bypassing that would make a huge difference.

Another great idea to further isolate heat from the intake charge is to use insulator gaskets for the IM anf TB/plenum. You can make your own out of teflon sheet.

You can see a good example of this on the portion of this page under 'Manifold Insulator':
http://www.s2000.org/Trooper/manifold/

Here is some more info on the principle and some data to back it up down near the bottom:
http://www.s2000.org/mods/insulator/

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2003 1:18 pm 
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Location: Germany
Quote:
FAIV?
FIAV = Fast Ilde Air Valve
Quote:
{more dense air over populates the fuel causing hard starts(my theory anyway)}.
Your theory is right. When the cylinder walls are still cold, the fuel will condense on them, making ignition really hard because the mixture is too lean. That's why the ECU is open-loop when the car is still cold, compensation for the condensed fuel.
Another thing is, you need more air flow to better turn that fuel into a gas when everything is still cold. Exactly that does this FIAV thingy.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2003 4:00 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 16, 2003 1:02 am
Posts: 593
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
hrmmm... my car is still hunting for the right settings it likes. Am I going to have to reset my ECU?

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