4g61t.org

"Geez i wouldnt be even starting a car with that lower fuel pressure! Base pressure should be 3bar/43psi im fairly sure."

^quote from guy on 4g61nz... but as i set it lower it ran alot better?? and a friend of mine that was helping me had the same problem with the same setup and said his car was running super rich and pretty much did what we were doing over the weekend, installed sard fpr and turned his fuel pressure down until it was running right. is this the wrong way to go about it? i heard 30-40psi for standard fuel pressure. we tried driving it at that and it barely even moved, just gargling in fuel and cutting out (assuming its not burning the fuel thats being pumped into it) so we turned it down a few psi and it got a little better, etc etc, and is still running fairly average (rich i guess?) but its boosting all good now and quite smooth considering i am only boosting 8psi and cant get past 5500rpm, so juust getting into the peak power range. so how would i get the air/fuel mix at optimal performance without turning the fuel down? have it set factory and turn the air flow up? i am yet to buy a safc.

I'm going to say get the MAF checked or replaced. Assuming good connections at the MAF terminals, they can go bad from dropping them or shocking them hard enough. Put in another MAF and see if your car runs better.

yeah DEFINITELY!! i am trying to loan one at the moment...

My car gives me a code 13 intake air temp sensor too and runs fine. Its just something to do with the Evo/2G AFM, some of these cars for some reason will give you a check engine light even though everything is wired up correctly, and some won't. I've tried another AFM too (an Evo AFM out of a mates VR-4, doesn't give him a check engine light) and still got the same code 13. I know 50BAIT from 4G61NZ always had a check engine light after he installed his Evo AFM too, and his car ran fine. I wired mine up using a mates 4G63 Cyborg as a reference, my Evo AFM is wired in exactly the same as his, yet he gets no check engine light and I do. I've tried his AFM too, same thing. So as far as code 13 goes.... i'd say its normal.

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1990 C83A 4WD 4G63T powered hatch - [PSIBRG]
1992 JZX91 2JZ powered Toyota Mark II

really!!?? woa. ok lol

Just make sure the variable signals coming from it when logged, are in the proper ranges for the conditions it is experiencing; boost, WOT, light cruise, idle, etc.
Log it and post the file or have one of us host it to show everyone.

...datalogged the colt today! aargh! knock sensor stuffed, o2 sensor stuffed!!! and speed sensor stuffed!

Did you ever fix these things? Does the car run OK?

i got a new o2 sensor put in yesterday but couldn't afford to do the knock sensor. car still runs the same. so annoying, i thought that would have sorted it

got the new knock sensor fitted on friday, problem solved!!! car runs mint now. datalogged it yesterday with my mate to see what it was doing, air/fuel ratio is all up to par! got a little knock at like 1800 revs, about 4 hits maybe? and another at a different time round the road at 3500ish revs whilst coasting, about 7 hits? he said it needs to get like 17 hits before the ecu will even start pulling timing, is this correct? (im not sure if thats the correct terminology for it but thats what my friend was saying). what amount of knock is getting unsafe? is it pretty normal to have a little? im pretty sure it had none whilst on boost. & when i get my new gauge cluster this week sometime i will go back round and check out what its doing up top as i cant get it past 5500rpm at the moment, hits full boost (8psi) at about 3500 but really starts getting off its ass around 4500ish. im really happy i finaly sorted the problem out. next up, new intercooler & piping (gotta get rid of that tiny cooler & bloody 1&1/2 piping or whatever it is ) now that iv got some decent power. then want to learn how to tune my cams! any help, any help?? links to help guide through cam tuning, maybe?

???

Grats man!

What fuel pressure are you running now after you replaced the knock sensor and o2?

Did you ever replace the speed sensor?

cheers,

fuel pressure needle is right inbetween 39psi & 40psi. runs great.

um nah i havnt fixed the speed sensor, i tried 2 new turbo gauge clusters & still no luck! i think its something to do with the gearbox & speedo cable? maybe being pre-facelift gearbox in a facelift car? im not too sure? the speedo needle is all shakey so thats nothing to do with the sensor. & it has only been doing that since the 4g63 conversion. & there wasnt too much mucking around with the ecu, just unplugged & plugged new one in. maybe a loose wire, but i still think something mechanical??

I'm not sure why your needle is shakey, but like I said on 4G61NZ, alot of people cut the speed sensor wire to the ECU to disable the 180kph speed cut. Obviously with the wire cut, the speed sensor isn't gonna do 3/5th's of feck all, and because your launch control isn't getting a signal from the sensor, it thinks you're not moving, so it builds a brick wall at 5500rpm even when you're moving.

I'm gonna order a new knock sensor for mine tomorrow, since I have the same check engine light you were getting. Took a mate for a spin the other day, he reckons the car is pretty quick (though he drives a 1.3L Starlet, so of course he'd say that lol), but he said it feels as though its holding back... which is exactly what I thought. Hopefully the new knock sensor will fix that... otherwise it'll be a waste of $180 lol.

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1990 C83A 4WD 4G63T powered hatch - [PSIBRG]
1992 JZX91 2JZ powered Toyota Mark II