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If you refuse to spend more $ but can weld..ligament shop jig with your old arms, and cut the offending length out of the hyundai arms and weld back together with a gusset to reinforce the weld, not ideal, but cheap, and if WELDED RIGHT it'll hold fine. This is how I fit the longer CSM axles in my Scoupe, but in reverse. I actually had to add over an inch to my stock arms, then got insane camber, torque steer, kickback, etc.
Changing suspension pickup points from factory is not to be taken lightly, it took a lot of work to get that car even close to not scary to drive after putting longer control arms into my stock suspension, and short of modifying pretty much all the other suspension points and maybe even the steering rack location, Your ackerman angle, scrub radius, roll radius, camber gain, "dave point" and steering axis inclination can all be thrown off, you'll learn a lot about suspension though !!
The car handles fine, if not better than before. Its been to the alignment shop and lines up fine. This isn't a problem with suspenaion geometry, its a problem with the drivetrain.
What aluma scoupe is getting at is everything past static alignment in the median position.
For any axle shaft an corresponding joints to work properly, you need to know the dimensions you should be working for the center shaft portion.
If Elantra LCAs are used, whatever distance they push the knuckle out, is how much further the center portion of the axle should be lengthened.
Without seeing the before and after in degrees, regarding your alignment, it would be hard to determine just how much each angle change with your wider track and extra camber has been accomplished. I suspect you now feel it corner a little tighter, amongst other characteristics.
My opinion, we all (with factory knuckles, LCAs and strut mounts and hardware, have drastically changed the factory angles with a drop of more than an inch.
Most of the time, this doesn't cause the car to handle all that bad, maybe better according to the butt dyno/hand of god on the steering wheel effects.
Elantra control arms can be modified, they need an exact cut behind the spot where it bolts up, another sleeve of material removed behind that, and weld the first cut piece back in. If need be, te lower ball joint holes could be slightly elongated to allow for correction, and once the proper specs are determined, weld in washers that are used with the 3 bolts/nuts that sandwich the control arm.
To me, $200 for new parts is the way to go, or find a center axle shaft compatible with the inner/outer cups and have at it.