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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 9:06 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Yes, the Cyclone coil bracket modded to work with the 89 wiring setup. This means that I had to make some threaded holes on the thin lip at the base of the coil bracket, to mount the tacho interface module in place.

Like this:

Image

More pics and larger pics located here in this thread: http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/sho ... ost1144366


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 9:10 pm 
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Pics of the wiring I am using to help me determine what pins do what, from the ECU to the solenoids being used and now the one being patched in. I basically tapped power like the factory does, from the FPR solenoid over to the Cyclone solenoid. The wire added to Pin 53 at the middle ECU plug, was the control wire (ground controlled by the ECU) that I installed to the connector. I will have more pics soon showing the labels I added to the connectors and solenoids. They are now idiot proof ... don't laugh.

Image
Image


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 9:16 pm 
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So everyone know why we are having to swap the wires around to fit. The coil bracket now sits much lower down, near the frame rail side of the intake manifold. Eep that's low.
Well, I will know soon what I can or cannot do without cursing with regards to wire fitment. :rolleyes:

Image


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 9:46 pm 
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Copying over most of my posting at galantvr4.org

I'll add this to the original post, but I will be using a 1990 DSM ECU, Federal. It's the same in all regards as an '89 Mirage turbo ECU, including pin-outs, and Eprom. ECU is chipped. I say it is the same, only because this is an Eprom unit, so it can be tweaked for injector size, and all the base variables that can be changed/manipulated. Just plugging in a non-Eprom 1.6L ECU into a 2.0L without changing the MAF/injectors, etc, would cause an issue yes. Just showing that most late 88/89/90 stuff with Eprom can be used in place of one another. Single board ECU's only!

I should probably do this:

Drill Transistor mount plate/tap for 90 style transistor mount holes x2.
Move wiring for transistor from timing cover upper location, so it's middle/top of the intake plenum.
Install wiring from 89 Coil packs with Tacho module.
This relieves the issue of adding a wire to the harness connector. The Tacho Filter adds a yellow wire, meaning 4 wires at the connector. Likely all 91 USDM DSM's and 91/92 USDM GVR's only have the three wire connections. 89 4g61t and 90 4g63t use 4 wires at the connector.
Extend wires at the Tacho module, or drill two new holes closer to the coil studs for the spade connectors, so the Tacho module can be mounted with no wiring modifications.
The black capacitor will also fit nicely near where the spark plug wires install to the towers.
That's a 5 minute nut/bolt swap + some drilling/tapping x4 holes. BAM!

Moment of clarity. Finally.

Pics to follow.

Cyclone coil packs and Power Transistor arrangement per ASA Japan.
[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=150874&width=400[/image]

Coil pack comparison: USDM 89 Colt/Mirage 4G61T with Tach Adapter for proper tachometer operation (90 DSM essentially) versus 90/91+ JDM Cyclone/ECI Multi Dual runner
Side by side --> JDM left - USDM right
Notice the small plate area with two screw holes, already tapped and ready to accept a Tacho Interface module .... surprise, surprise! Different era clusters getting that same bracket. I figured this out late in the evening, while wondering where to place the tacho interface. I mounted the tacho interface to this plate, but wires whether in original orientation to the coil studs, would not work, nor would they work with the wires switched at the tacho "IN" terminals (there are two terminals), and switched at the studs.
Solution : extend wires - which I am not a fan of doing, or drill two holes in the base plate, on the lip that comes up from where the coils mount, and directly centered below the two coils. I'll post pics when I can get that drilled and tapped to accept the stock screws.
[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=150875&width=400[/image]

Cyclone dual runner
[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=150876&width=400[/image]

Cyclone dual runner - harness plug 3 wire
[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=150877&width=400[/image]

Cyclone dual runner - wire shot with covers removed
[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=150878&width=400[/image]

USDM 4g61t - wire shot with covers removed
[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=150879&width=400[/image]

USDM 4g61t left(small bracket is welded in place (factory mod) to hold the Tach adapter) versus 90 DSM 4g63t. Also to note is a 4 wire connector on the left, 3 wire on the right.
[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=150880&width=400[/image]
[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=150881&width=400[/image]
Bottom view JDM left, USDM right
[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=150882&width=400[/image]


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 9:48 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Dual runner transistor plate and transistor appears to be 91 USDM style.
[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=150990&width=400[/image]

Plate drilled to accept 89 Colt/Mirage 4g61t/90 DSM style transistor
[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=150992&width=400[/image]

89 4g61t/90 style transistor with original plate
[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=150993&width=400[/image]

Newly drilled holes at base, allow tacho interface to be installed in close proximity to coil packs. If you want to lengthen your wires, you can use the original location that the tacho interface would have been installed on the side plate. Holes are already drilled, but the wiring on these models wasn't meant for this plate, so it was modified to work.
[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=150995&width=400[/image]
[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=150996&width=400[/image]
[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=150997&width=400[/image]
[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=150999&width=400[/image]

The 4 wire connector does slide right onto the mount rail beside the black box labelled, "250-0.47"
[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151000&width=400[/image]


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 9:49 pm 
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CREDIT DUE for some photos related to this HOW TO ARCHIVE thread:
click

Well, the coil packs go on today. I'll post back about that soon.
Last night I modified a few things to fit the Cyclone support bracket into my engine bay.

Here is a basic rundown of everything you need to see for tracing out vacuum lines on the cyclone setup.

Further cutting to the support was required due to contact on one small bolt head at the compressor housing. I likely cut out a little more than is required, but nothing is moving on the back side of the motor. Not compromising structure, but it will be painted to keep it from rusting.

This will be like a color coded, adult required for assembly, kids play toy. The vacuum lines are color coded, making their installation pretty easy with the correct diagram.

You will see color dots on the sensors - likely only original Mitsubishi sourced sensors are color coded this way, but now you know the solenoids to look out for, or that can be matched to look original/work the same way. The color dots match the color code hash marks on the vacuum lines!!!! :P
One vacuum line or two do not have color codes on them.

More of Cheekychimps Cyclone manifold views and diagrams via Misterfixit:

[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151470&width=400[/image]

[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151256&width=400[/image]

[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151257&width=400[/image]

[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151258&width=400[/image]

[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151259&width=400[/image]

[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151260&width=400[/image]

[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151261&width=400[/image]

[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151262&width=400[/image]

[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151263&width=400[/image]

[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151264&width=400[/image]

[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151265&width=400[/image]

[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151266&width=400[/image]

[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151267&width=400[/image]

[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151268&width=400[/image]

[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151269&width=400[/image]

[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151270&width=400[/image]

[image]http://www.galantvr4.org/img.php?id=151271&width=400[/image]


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 9:49 pm 
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BIG update:

Using NGK Blues for plug wires, you do not need longer spark plug wires unless you wish to preserve the original coil pack wiring orientation and subsequent swap of the coil wiring and plug wires to suit this.
I shall elaborate.

NGK Blue 7mm wires that are probably the most common standard wire for our 4G6X engines will not fit, lengthwise in their labelled positions or otherwise, when using the Cyclone manifold, original Cyclone coil pack location and standard spark plug wire bracketry located in the spark plug/head cover area. SOLUTION! You can manipulate the system.

I now have the pictures to show what you need to do, saving much time and headache for someone wanting to jump right into this installation scenario.

Okay, using a Cyclone manifold, original Cyclone coil pack bracket and Cyclone Transistor plate all these pictures will make sense. If you do not have the Transistor plate, you simply need to make a plate. If you do not have the coil pack bracket, EHMotorsports just showed you in the last post, a HOW-TO on creating one.

Let the pictures begin!

Re-wiring the coil packs, essentially swapping the wiring from the left coils, to the right and vice-versa, leaves the spark plug locations as follows:
Image

Visual on the wires. First photos will be PRE-SWAP (ie original orientation as you might find them fresh from the factory. Pictured is the 1989 Mirage/Colt wiring, likely identical to the 1990 DSM.

Original positions as follows:
Image

MODIFIED locations and wiring schematic, just in case anyone is color blind:

Image

Notice the covers in the background, you have to notice that they have different sized holes for the wiring to come out from the towers, they must be switched side to side.
Image

Final note for the coil wiring towers. Seems Mitsubishi liked to change the nuts that were used between the Mirage/Colt and DSM posts. They used 7mm nuts and 8mm nuts for the smaller of the posts. If you can get 8mm nuts, it will make working on the car much easier, should any wiring ever have to come off again, because what else on this car is 7mm!! 8,10,12,14,17, 22mm .... haha. Saved you the headache of not having brought the correct tool home.


So, you now have the coils wire locations figured out, but you need to disregard the plug wires orientation going over the rocker cover because the NGK Wires are not long enough to achieve proper fitment if you use the coil pack in the stock Cyclone location. Pics will show what you have to do, to make them fit snugly.

First attempt - COULD NOT FIT THE WIRE COVER IN PLACE IN THIS ORIENTATION, but it does look pretty. If you had longer or custom wiring, the old throw back thought to King wires comes up, or a call to NGK, you could use this orientation. Coil pack wiring is still swapped to achieve this.
Image
Image

This is the wire orientation I found worked best, and everything fits, including the spark plug wire cover! NOTICE THE WIRE FLIP NEAR THE OIL CAP AREA!! The wires extend straight down after that.
Image

Coil pack nearest the fuel rail. Going from the front terminal to the back, NGK wire #1, then #3.
Image

Coil pack nearest the firewall. Going from the front terminal to the back, NGK wire #4, then #2.
Image

Final outcome with all covers in place.

Image

Image

Image


Final Cyclone TRANSISTOR plate modification. Using a 1990 style wiring harness means getting your wires to the top of a transistor plate as would happen using the stock Cyclone wiring orientation, was not going to happen. Decided to aim the Transistor pins down back towards the main engine harness (it gets very close so I cut the plate back and mounted the transistor using the two holes I had already made! Small victory .....

Image
Image


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 10:55 pm 
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It's alive!!!!!!!!

Huge/Massive UPS to Broke4speed who stopped by and kept me company while we tweaked the idle. Holy frick was it cold tonight. -7 Celsius, we must be getting old. Cranked on the heater, dropped the garage door just over the hood of the car, and let the exhaust come out in the driveway. 2 different ECU setups, and we concluded that his Moates/Ostrich setup was boink, as was his stock ECU (likely). They all caused the engine to peg full rich or worse .... sat at 0.95V. Shut that down fast. Used my ECU with the modded keydiver coding again, as we only took it out because my timing and idle were so far off (wondered if my tweaked chip was off). Well, after my ECU worked, and we reached the proper coolant temp, the ECU was able to be locked into base timing mode. Got the CAS dialed way back to where it should be at 5 degrees base, 8ish actual when all pins removed. The car idles so much better now that the engine has been refreshed, vacuum hoses were all tweaked and cleaned up, all wiring was gone over - painfrickin-stakingly over the course of a few weeks and some seriously late nights even during my work weeks. So, engine is now idling in the hot maps ... cold maps are another story as they need to be tweaked for the larger injectors - my tune still holds the cold maps for the stock 1G 450's; engine now has PTE? 780's. So, idle sucks when the car is cold ... will need some throttle and likely will be stupid rich until up to temp, at which point it is night and day, for the better.

I'll post up some pics of the car back together, and maybe some on the street when the salt is gone. Snow and everything froze today, so I was annoyed that I could not drive the car; also my rad fan did not come on and things got up around 106 C/220 F, and we shut it down. Time to bleed some more and check that rad fan for operation/power+ground connections.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 11:51 pm 
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Yeah, it was COLD in the Aspire on the way home, lol.
Glad to help! I wish we could have gotten to the live tuning, but it now looks like I'll have to send my ecu in for repair. Something just isn't right :(. You could try that other chip I made before I left, it is a bit leaner during warmup, and might help for now.

I still can't get over the temp change. It wasn't winter yesterday...but all of a sudden, BAM! -10*C!

_________________
Early 2000's: 1992 Summit sedan - 14.1 @ 100.9mph w/ 155/80 13s
2012: 1989 Dodge Colt GT Turbo - 14.9 @ 100mph, 10psi/s16G


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 10:43 am 
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Engine running well.

Starting issue presents itself now. When I first got the engine wiring back together I was getting a big click from the dash/maybe starter solenoid, but no starter actuation with the key forward.
Left me having to "dukes-of-hazard" out the front door the one night; sandblaster in front pass seat, snowbank to my left. Haha. Well, I have a spare starter to play with. Not a big job, but I will wait till it's considerably warmer out for that to happen. I'm done with working outside in the cold for a VERY long time.

Ordered up some new driver door hinges and some strange Kanji stickers for "unleaded fuel only" amongst others.
Also, got some hardware for my GTI/JDM bumper.

Ordered some parts from skap, aka Manila Mitsu Classics.

Hood bumper that go on the rain groove, top of the fender panels
MB401330 DAMPER

GTI/JDM front bumper inserts
MB597946 GARNISH, FRONT AIR DAM
MB597947 GARNISH, FRONT AIR DAM

Side Fender markers
MZ587077 LAMP KIT, FENDER MARKER

Rear license plate lights
MB597717 LAMP KIT, LICENSE PLATE

GEN EXPORT C53A RHD
MB597679 LH 12V-60/55W, 55W, 4W
MB597680 RH 12V-60/55W, 55W, 4W


They should be shipping out first week or January, from the Philippines.

Pics to follow.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 2:09 pm 
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Merry Christmas to me ....

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 2:46 pm 
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Sweet!

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Early 2000's: 1992 Summit sedan - 14.1 @ 100.9mph w/ 155/80 13s
2012: 1989 Dodge Colt GT Turbo - 14.9 @ 100mph, 10psi/s16G


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 2:56 pm 
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Well I'm glad that went to a good home. I wanted it for my garage, but I just didn't have the spare money. Too much tied up into this 2g! That will teach me to post stuff on my FB right! :)

_________________
49 International KB-2
72 Dodge Colt
73 Dodge Colt (Project)
84 GMC K3500
85 Dodge D50 Diesel Swap
90 Mighty Max V6
89 Mirage Turbo
94 Mighty Max
99 Montero


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 2:59 pm 
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Quote:
i am entirely jealous. i think a roadtrip to ottawa to see this thing in all it's glory is in order sometime in the future :p


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 01, 2014 3:03 pm 
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Hopefully some time in the summer when Tim's car isn't under construction, lol.

_________________
Early 2000's: 1992 Summit sedan - 14.1 @ 100.9mph w/ 155/80 13s
2012: 1989 Dodge Colt GT Turbo - 14.9 @ 100mph, 10psi/s16G


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