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on my ca I just had the hub machined to fit into the CSM bearing and then went to the big brakes. I did 5 bolt elcipse hubs but this would work for any hub as long as it is bigger then the stock hub.

Good point, but I need to justify spending $225 on camber plates, so I can't exactly use my original knuckles now can I? Besides, I like the fat hubs; I had a Fiero that used to like to snap hubs in that exact area on a regular basis. That made me very uncomfortabe while barreling into a turn.

Anyhoo... I got the free Expo knuckles from Chris today (thanks buddy), and they look like they'll keep the tie rods nice and parallel with the control arms. I can't wait to compare them side by side.

I've been frantically trying to finish all the customer cars all week so I can get back to my mad science project, but the're like zombies; they just keep coming.

I'm slightly confused... The 4g CSMs have a 4x100 bolt pattern on the hub. To use this, you'd have to either change the hub out of the knuckle, or use different wheels.

Expo/Summit XLs have 4x114.3 bolt pattern on the hub. You should be able to just bolt this up and go. Unless these knuckles drastically change the front geometry, I would think this would be the best option. The next question would be: will GVR4 or DSM calipers bolt up to this knuckle?

I'm in the same boat with wanting to try these different knuckles and hubs. For one, I hate the 3G brakes, and second I broke a wheel stud. I've got one of my Colts up on jackstands and am pulling the knuckles tomorrow. I might have Bill (kaioken) swing out and bring his 4g knuckles for comparison. I'm planning on hitting up the junkyard this week to grab some Expo/SummitXL knuckles as well. I'll contribute what information I come up with.

Good thread.

The 4g's are 4x100 but most people don't mind switching over. Most of the time 4x100 wheels are easier to find and cheaper, not to mention some wheels aren't available in 4x114.3.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

I have a set of GVR4 knuckles with calipers and hubs. Correct me if I'm wrong but instead of paying the $200 for a set of those adapters couldn't I just slot the bolt holes in my struts?

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2006 Pontiac Vibe 1.8L 1ZZFE 132HP
1997 Honda Civic EX Coupe 1.8L DOHC TURBO
Conner 6/23/09 8 lbs 3 ozs 20.5 inches
Caleb 3/17/12 8 lbs 15 ozs 20 inches

Yes, you can slot the holes and put some thick washers on the bolts, after an alignment you can weld the washers in place.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

I got the brakes in today. The Expo knuckles are the ticket.

Insane Gvr-4 bump steer video:


That's with the springs removed, and the wheel firmly chocked . Frigin scary!

Here's a close up; you can see the ark drawn on the door where the original knuckles bumpsteer path was plotted.


Here's the golden ticket, Expo Knuckles:


I said "Ok here's the Galant vr-4 knuckle" in the beginning, but I meant Expo. Anyways, I'll call that well within acceptable limits.

So here's one of the Expo Knuckles that Chris sent me. The tie rod goes in from the top (like the 3g hatch), and all you need to do is slot the top hole in the strut some, and screw the tie rods in just about 3/8" from all the way.


Now it fits the beefier wheel bearings, twin pot calipers, 276mm Gvr-4 rotors, and aside from a little more unsprung weight I didn't have to sacrifice handling, or have anything custom machined.

what year was the wagon the nuckles came off of? and do we still need the camber plates with the expo fwd knuckle mod?

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4g61t.org
4g61t.com

Are you using stock hub assemblies or GVR4 hubs?? Could you use expo knuckles with dsm hubs or would some machining be needed?

They're from a FWD 92-95 Expo, and I don't think you technically need the plates.

I put it together with a long 1/4" in the top hole, and pushed the camber as negative as it would go. Then, with the bottom bolt tight, slid out the 1/4" bolt, and reamed out the top hole in the strut to accomodate the standard size bolt again. I used the strut plates anyway so I have fine adjustment, but without coilovers, there really isn't enough room in the strut tower to do it with plates alone.

I couldn't believe the difference between these and the Gvr-4 ones. The Gvr-4 knuckles only put the outer tie rod end about an inch and a half lower, but the bumpsteer is like night and day.

DSM hubs will press right into the expo knuckles as they use the same bearing.

Also I wonder if the AWD expo uses the same knuckles? There are a few of those at the yard too.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

x2 Yes, DSM and Gvr-4 hubs will press right in to Expo knuckles. I used Gvr-4 hubs.

Also FWIW, as far as I can tell the Gvr-4 knuckles are the same dimensions as AWD DSM ones.

And Chris, I wondered that too, but I recall reading somewhere that someone tried AWD expo knuckles with poor results. I suspect they may be more like the Gvr-4/AWD DSM knuckles.

Let me Know when you get to the pads and brake lines as I can help with this. I can also have slotted rotor's that are cryo'ed and machine made for cooling or for an all out race app. Anyways good job so far coltsfan let me know if i can help?

Maybe I should post some pictures of the finished product. I've put about 100 miles on the new brakes so far and they're awesome. I installed Wagner Thermoquiet ceramic pads, and slotted rotors from SFX performance. I glass beaded and painted a set of calipers I got from Chris, and my original hoses fit just fine.

I just checked and CAPS shows the same knuckle for fwd and awd. Maybe someone tried an older awd wagon knuckle and they didn't fit?

Get us some pics of the new setup. I bet they look huge on a csm.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual