4g61t.org

Hi guys,

can i remove the stub axles from the hub without removing the hub from the car.

i was thinking i could just use a gear puller



im sure its called the stub axle :? the bit with the four 12mm bolts that holds the rotor

cheers

no. have to unbolt the hub from the car and press it off

_________________
90 Mirage LIL EVO 940awhp
14 Audi R8 V10
07 LS460L, 01 LS430
13 Tundra TRD S/C, 96 T100
96 Land Cruiser GT35R

bugger

or as i recall you can use a slide hammer but the inside seal wont go back in. so you have to take the bearing off and put a new seal in and then press it back together with the axel, but it is much easy to take the nuckle off and use a press

yea i was just being lazy

hubs are coming off now.

There was a writeup moved to the archives a few months ago explaining how to pull the hubs with a slide hammer. It may be worth a try but I don't know about using the axle nut to pull it all back together. Sounds kinda iffy to me, I think I'd be safe and use a press.

_________________
95 Eagle Summit DL coupe
15 Mitsubishi Mirage ES hatch

yea just went out and brought a press.

p.s. tie rod ends suck!

i was just repeating what i remembered from the post i saw.

the tie rod ends arent bad if you use a hammer and hit the knuckle at the
tie rod end it will pop right out

that was easy compared to this f*(&^&^ lower ball joint.

it just laughed at my two arm gear puller!

If you're replacing everything anyway just use a pickle fork. It tears the dust boots but it will come off for sure if you put enough arm behind it.

_________________
95 Eagle Summit DL coupe
15 Mitsubishi Mirage ES hatch

i'll give one of these are try tomorrow

http://www.kincrome.com.au/web/catalogu ... umber=2210

if that doesnt work im just gunna f*&^ shit up with a sledge hammer and pickle fork!

I use a 4x4 ball joint/u-joint remover kit from the bargain basement type stores like Princess Auto (READ cheap offshore metals). Works a charm and never have to grab a hammer. Even worked to unseize my brake caliper sliders that wouldn't budge when I got the car. I'll take a picture for reference as to what I'm talking about.

Think I paid $40 on sale or something like that:

I had no success using a cheaper $8 ball joint removed tool similar but not identical to the one you have linked t04garret, so I went all out on that little bugger with the kit! I still have to pickle fork my tie rods but they only have to come apart when things get really tough, or as you are doing with the whole hub coming off. I refrain from hammering on the parts that keep my wheels pointed straight ahead. I realise that hammer on the joint can oval it just enough to get the part loosened, but I now will have to carry my son in the car, and I'd rather not take a chance with 20 year old, nearly 200km travelled cast iron.

Those work great I use those on my ball joints and tie rod ends all the time.

The first time you use one when the ball joint/tie rod makes a huge noise you'll think something broke and it killed you.... But its supposed to do that surprisingly...

_________________
LC '01 Accent GSI - Silver
MC '07 Accent GSR - Midnight Gray
C52A '91 Colt 4G64DOHC N/A Lots of Mods - White

Don't forget you must replace the wheel bearings when you remove the hubs. That's another $100 but you should be able to get a kit from Coventrys that also includes the dust seals.