I just realized I didn't answer all your questions. So I'll try at it again for later readers.
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exactly how this thing works? it doesnt matter if I have a 4g15 8v or 12v or 4g15 with 4g37 ecu, maf, inyectors?
You could use it on a BS engine up to any un-godly size motor. I can't remember the cylinder limit.
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it only works with MAP ?
Yep, and that's the way you want it. Think about it this way with a MAP you can vent your popoff to atmo because the MAP knows the truth. With a MAF you can't because it doesn't know what's happening behind it. I ran into that problem a month back. My car was running horrible all of a sudden and my AFR gauge was telling me a lean condition. Running codes it said O2, MAF, and a few other things. I changed the O2 and no change. Chnage the FPR and no change. Changed the pump with a considerably larger pump(twist my arm) and no change. Started to change the MAF with one from an ole turbo clipse when I decided to take a break from it. I was smoking a stoggy when I looked at my intake air charge pipe on the floor. Didn't really pay much attention, but then did a double take and noticed a rotten hole about 2 inches long on the underbelly. For 3 weeks I beat myself up and the car for that stupid little hole. A MAP sensor wouldn't have had that problem.
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how hard is install this?
I'm not going to lie here. It is a royal PITA. Some easier than others. Sensors you will have to buy. And then trying to figure out how to install them on an engine that was never equiped with them. It's all a matter of pateince and how much you really have. I've seen people do it in a weekend, and I've seen people spend an entire month installing one. Final test and tune prolly takes longer than the install. Some people follow other examples and use their configurations so exactly they're running before the end of the weekend.
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how hard is tunning with this?
As with anything of this nature it has a learning curve. If you don't know how an engine works mathmatically and physically then MS is not for you. But there are forums for this to help. I use a program called Engine Analyzer Pro(unrelated to MS) that I get most of my information from. It helps me fill in the blanks when I'm building picMicro's to inhibit or send false information to the ECU on my car. Engine physics isn't that complicated and most aspects can be auto generated by the software.
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what exactly should I kknow before buy it.
Research, read, more research, and read more. You can never know too much. Follow the forums and find communities that focus on the product and more over have a repository of downloadable config files. These will save you allot of headaches. If you see someone that's getting better times than you and he has the same setup (albeit rare with the cars you guys drive) look at the config files he's posted (if he posts them). You could find things as simple as timing settings or as complicated as a different fuel map. You may find something better just by viewing the other guys settings. Before long it doesn't look like greek anymore and you don't even persieve it as code.
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what is the price? i couldnt find any price..........
I've seen the kit as cheap as 200$ and as much as 580$. Depending on if it was assembled or not. If your into assembling stuff the kit is for you, but without someway of testing it you might want to get the fully assemled unit. What looks good and complete visually may have a problem that could hinder installation on your vehicle if you don't know about the problem.
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sorry for all the questions.
Questions cost nothing and without them life wouldn't be much fun.
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