4g61t.org

Well I tell you this I will take it off port it more and show u pics I will port the damn thing till there isn't anything left. The oil releaf I mean. It might be a couple of weeks till the car is up and runing as I am switching over to automatic. It might even be longer then that I am not sure.


Tyler,

another thing man i dont know how old this thread is but i have not heard anything about this turbo being primed at all so it could be at purchasers expense that this turbo needs a rebuild!!! i had this happen to me once i had a 14b upgraded to a 16g a week after i sold it. but i had the guy come to my house and took him for a ride so he could see the turbo wasnt smoking or anything he then sat there for 3 hours while the car cooled down and i pulled it. he took it home and bolted it on a couple weeks later next thing i get a text sayin i sold him a bunk turbo i asked him if he primed it? he said whats that i laughed and i said bring it back ill replace your money cause of your own stupidity even though he seen that it spooled fine and didnt throw smoke at all!!!!

Are you kiding me?? Befor the gt4202 swap that car had set for 2 months. befor I got this setup on the car. So ya I primed everything befor the car was stared. Take on the mpi fuse and bump it a few times for about 8 or 9 secs. each time. Do you see a problem with that? I don't think so.


Tyler,

no pal that is not how you prime a turbo so i am sure you just blew the seal by priming a turbo. you have to have it off the car for one feed oil into it then use an air chuck ect to spin the turbines which in turn gets your bearings pumping with oil!!! so what you did was prime the motor pal by taking out the mpi relay yeah thats all good it pushes oil through everything inculding the turbo but only part of them cause i guarentee you werent out there spining it the turbine with the air chuck!!!!!! or with your fingers at that.

This makes no sense whatsoever.

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

I've never heard of this and I've been building turbo cars since I was 16. Besides, I can only begin to imagine what a GT4202 would do the ringlands in a stock block at anything over 10 lbs. Also it'd be useless on a stock valvetrain and stock ECU. I know you're running DSMLink but you'd have to rev over 8000 rpm in order to reach it's efficiency level. I'm not bashing you in any way but all I'm saying is that without aftermarket springs and cams there'd be no point in running that turbo in the first place. I'd be interested to see how much lag that turbo would have on a stock valvetrain.
If you want my opinion I'd say to put the turbo up for a while and find yourself a 16g or 20g and run it until you can afford to build your motor to suit that turbo's needs. It LOVES big boost and high rpm and you just can't do that with a stock motor. Honestly I liked your NT build better anyway. I have a semi built 4g63 and was planning to run my 60-1 but I like my big 16g better because I can build full boost before 4000 rpm and I don't have to have 1600cc injectors and DSMLink to run it. Hell my Walbro 190 is more than enough to get the job done efficiently and still be able to provide enough fuel to run my 16g to 20 psi with the right injectors.
For real dude I really don't think Andrew would have sold you a junk turbo so you really should stop pointing the finger at him. I know it's easy to blame the seller but I trust his word and if he said it was fine, it was fine. Just rebuild the turbo and make it a shelf queen until you can get your motor a little more suited for running a turbo that large.
Sorry if this seems like a lecture but I'm trying to help you get pointed in the right direction. You seem like a knowledgeable enough person but you're like me..no patience...

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2006 Pontiac Vibe 1.8L 1ZZFE 132HP
1997 Honda Civic EX Coupe 1.8L DOHC TURBO
Conner 6/23/09 8 lbs 3 ozs 20.5 inches
Caleb 3/17/12 8 lbs 15 ozs 20 inches

What was said about priming I have never heard befor. Well Andrew still has not got back to me in 2 weeks. I bought 2 trannys from him a coltgt tranny and another turbo tranny I was told the colt gt tranny was in good working order we put it in adjust the clutch and the tranny is junk grinds going into first grind in revers. I am telling you this guy seems rather shady to me after I spend all this money. The turbo full spools at 6000rpm I take it to 8000 and I am runing 24psi That was when it was last together. I don't see a problem with what I am doing just because it is a little diffrent then everyone else. Yes it is far from normal but I like that. The other tranny I was told it grinds so I am out 2 trannys and I pmed him quite a few times. This is bull shit.


Tyler,

Well in that case I'd be pissed too so I don't blame you there. Also I wasn't bashing you at all with my last post. That's why I said that I'd be interested to see how it runs so please don't take that in an ignorant way. I know that car pulled hard too. That's also why I said I liked your NT build because it was different. I was going to go out and buy a NT motor and put my turbo parts on it because there are NO 6 bolt turbo engines around here for less than $1500 and the NT engine would be fine for 200-250 HP. Maybe even more with the right tuner behind the computer. I'll look into your problem with the other mods and see what we can do about it.

_________________
2006 Pontiac Vibe 1.8L 1ZZFE 132HP
1997 Honda Civic EX Coupe 1.8L DOHC TURBO
Conner 6/23/09 8 lbs 3 ozs 20.5 inches
Caleb 3/17/12 8 lbs 15 ozs 20 inches

Make sure the shifter cables are adjusted properly before calling him out. The bracket that holds the cable which is located on the transmission can be out off alignment and cause the gear to grind going in.

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615hp and 475tq at 23psi and 75shots
http://gadsm.org/showthread.php?t=37685

He said he was running a restrictor which would eliminate any high pressure oil issues.

Also it doesn't matter how much you port out the oil housing, you need a restrictor with any BB turbo unless you're running it from the head, but I would still run an inline filter / restrictor regardless.

Lilevo it is not bb it is gt4202 not a gt4202r which would cost quite a bit more. It is off the oil filter housing the line. I am sorry if I did not state the info. I how ever am stuck with this turbo kit, 2 5speed trannys. ect. I know what you are talking about when it comes to the brackets this is not my first rodeo. I been there and done it. It is 100% the tranny hands down. tryed everything and then some.


Tyler,

i don't think you know exactly what i am talking about when it comes to adjusting the bracket. the are two selector levers on the transmission. the vertical one is the side to side movement on the in car shifter. the horizontal one is what select the gear. loosen the cable bracket bolts. put the tranny into 2nd gear. take the cable off the horizontal level. push the horizontal lever forward more and put the cable back on. tighten the bracket bolts. now check the shifting again. if you still have problem. look at your clutch to be the problem because it is not releasing if the reverse and 1st are bad. reverse and 1st are on different synchros.

note. the horizontal lever is straight on a gst tranny and curve on a mirage turbo tranny. you have to modify this level on a gst tranny or it will not shift right.

_________________
615hp and 475tq at 23psi and 75shots
http://gadsm.org/showthread.php?t=37685

It is a colt gt tranny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The tranny is the problem. We have never had a shifting problem in the car the last tranny blowed apart. There is an almost new clutch master and slave when I did the swap taking out the sohc motor puting the 2.0 in the colt I replaced both.