4g61t.org

I very curious for your PWR barel install !
I have a same thing ...
Nice work really

update time,

the egay throttle body is a sack of shit, not worth the time or the money. first problem was they drilled the adapter plate for the ICS upside down, then the holes for the TPS didnt line up. it was just a fruit and banana nightmare. ended up tossing that idea and actually brought something decent.

brought a plazmaman 3" t/b because they were the only ones i found that were aftermarket and had a progressive linkage. the qaulity is exceptional. Alex (plazmaman) asked me to send my stock t/b down so he could make sure the TPS will work perfectly, and it will. i am very happy.





so the next issue is that i have a good t/b that isnt a bolt on....

so i have decided to order a hypertune intake manifold. that was a very long decision, as there are plently of good intake manifolds in the USA, but because the US cars dont have the brake booster/master cylinder/clutch master on the right hand side, there seems to be some clearance problems when using them.

originally, i wanted a performance metal works intake manifold, like CLuTZ's below,



but unfortunatley it appears PMW have dispanded, which means CLuTZ probably got the last one

hopefully the hypertune will arrive in the next month, then i should be able to finish the car off.

here is a pic of the hypertune, curtisousiy of VR42LT,

That hypertune manifold looks really nice. The JMFab and Magnus intake manifolds will fit on there even with the booster on the passenger side, I've definitely seen that, but it might not allow you to run anything larger than a 2.5" upper IC pipe. I can't wait to see pics of it all installed.

_________________
91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus

held together by race tape!

almost go time, bugger all left to do now.



barrel didnt fit the way i wanted it at first. mainly because of the new manifold. but it looks good where it is

Aw man, that looks mint! If you were still in NZ i'd challenge you to a duel!!

_________________
1990 C83A 4WD 4G63T powered hatch - [PSIBRG]
1992 JZX91 2JZ powered Toyota Mark II

hahaha

would be quite interesting, you would deffinatly have the edge in boost response.

the SCM is a little lazy.

and it lives.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=el0dnddqHVc


more to come...

awesome!!! we want more!!

_________________
My feedback thread:

http://www.4g61t.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=18146

nothing to report apart from fidanaza friction plates are fruit and banana shit!@

didnt even do 50kms and the sprung centre has shat itself.

How much power are you planning on putting through your clutch? I run a cheap ass 'PBR' clutch from Repco (VR-4 standard replacement) with an uprated pressure plate. Been running it for 2 years now. Honestly, best clutch i've ever used. I run it daily on my 13.0 @109mph boost level. It's held up to countless 5500rpm stutterbox launches (probably over 50 at a guess). I even ran it for a day at about 22psi, which would be nearing the 300kw atw mark (it felt like it pulled just as hard as my mates 330kw atw VR-4). I'm not sure how long it would last under that kind of pressure, but for the 1 day it didn't slip at all. It still bites as good as the day I put it in. Maybe i've just had a good run.... but i'd sure as hell buy another one if I wasn't looking at upping the power (may go for an ACT clutch if/when this one finally gives up)

_________________
1990 C83A 4WD 4G63T powered hatch - [PSIBRG]
1992 JZX91 2JZ powered Toyota Mark II

I didnt even put any power through it snowy,

i have had the rev limit set to 4krpm while i got the clutch and BOV sorted (not running one) plus i need to get re-tune done for high rpm as the engine is MAP sensed and the VE has changed alot by fitting the intake and cooler.

i think the friction plate crapped itself close to first start, as i have had major trouble trying to get the clutch to release and now it chatters on idle and i have found bits of spring when i removed the clutch fork boot.

its fecked i recon.

Wow it has been awhile since i have updated this, where to start...

Personal life has changed a bit, i am now self-employed and my partner is 5 months pregnant with our first daughter, car had taken a little back seat for the last few months while i worked on a major implementation project over xmas/new year’s.

I have been relaxing for the last week and have made some progress.



Story since last update,

Got the car going, would not shift into any gears when stationary, just grinded the gears. could stop the engine select the gear then start the car and get moving, once moving you could shift, but not very nicely. bleed and re-bleed the clutch, checked clutch pedal adjustment, nothing made it better. When it was hot it would also run on three cylinders, traced that to a dodgy coil pack, replaced that and it was slightly better, but i couldn’t really drive it anyway so i left it for a bit.

Decided the gearbox had to come out to see what was up with the clutch, pulled the box out on xmas day

When i pulled the box i noticed little bits of friction plate cushion springs in the bell housing, turned out about three of the springs had partially collapsed and there was even excessive wear on the cushion spring retainer plate after only 30kms maximum worth of driving.

i decided to change friction plates and purchased a ClutchNet 6 Puck Sprung Centre off eBay, ClutchNet friction plates seem to be very good, their sprung centres are the only ones available with the springs completely close off to its impossible for them to wear loose and take you whole clutch assembly out.

I also changed from the fidanza alloy flywheel to an ACT Streetlite chromoly flywheel, the main reason for this was previously when the car was going with the fidanza alloy flywheel after a few hours of beat downs the clutch assembly would over heat and slip, i am not sure if it was the flywheel, friction plate or pressure plate responsible for the slipping when hot, but i did read that fidanza alloy flywheels can warp when hot due to the different expansion rates of the materials used (aluminium and steel).

I measured the ClutchNet friction plate thickness compared to the fidanza one which was giving me issues and the ClutchNet was .1mm thicker. because of the previous clutch dragging issue i decided it would be best to shim the clutch fork pivot ball.

had a little issue with 5th gear too, because the nut on the input shaft had backed out previously and broken the gearbox end casing, i switched to a spare case i had in the shed. The end case i had was slightly different though, it didn’t include a wave spring for the reverse gear synchronizer. so i thought, if it’s not there then it doesn’t need it. But because of that these things kept falling out when reverse was selected.



I found out later that there was a cover plate that i didn’t put in and numerous other tiny differences with the synchronizer assembly that are not totally apparent. seems there are two distinct KM221's and early and late model with different 5th gear and reverse assemblies and i got them mixed up.

So got the new clutch in put the car back together last Saturday. did some re-shaping of the scatter shield because it was putting a bit of stress on the shifter cable making selecting gears abit harder than normal. Filled all the fluids up and started her up. clutch works thank fruit and banana!

Have done about 200kms so far, no fluid leaks either! i still have a rev limit of 4,000rpm because i haven’t tuned for the changes in fuel delivery that will be required because of the new cooler and manifold.

initial thoughts on the changes so far seem that the turbo comes on boost a lot earlier, around 3,800rpm in 3rd where it used to be 4,200rpm so at least something has been a positive.


So anyway, back to today.


I was having difficulty ensuring i had all the air bled out of the water to air intercooler system. so i went out and had a bleeder point welded onto the top inlet of the barrel, this is the highest point of the system in the engine bay and I’ve already managed to bled it correctly in a few minutes.



Next on the list was to upgrade the ECU. To recap, i am running a LinkPlus G3, it was top of the line a year or to ago. Since then they released a G4 ECU, new pricing and feature structure, but the funny thing is the only hardware difference is the harness plug connector style. Link offer a firmware upgrade for older LinkPlus's to G4 spec which give you all the new advantages (better logging, autotune, update tuning software etc). Only issue is the old tune needs to fully re-done as there are so many changes to the ECU that a straight upgrade isn’t possible.

So i have done the ECU upgrade, i just need to start making the new MAP up, i will be road tuning it this time, and it will be getting tuned this week.

back again,

while i have been in-between contracts, and before the birth of my daughter I’ve been trying pretty hard to get this thing reliable enough to drive consistently.

i have one smallish oil leak around the sump to correct, hopefully a good degrease and a smear of silicone should fix that.

tuning hasn’t gone as well as expected and i am fairly sure its due to my lack of experience. because the firmware upgrade on the ECU forced me to redo the entire map, i thought i would give modifying an EVO3 base map a go as that should be a better starting point than my previous VR4 map. I tried tuning cruise and low loads, at around -60/40kpa 2.5/3krpm it should be running in the 30deg+ timing and lean around 14.1-14.7 according to stock maps. but i just can not get her to like it, it either wants less than -25deg timing and 14.7ish or 30deg and 16:1+ AFR otherwise i get bucking. it has been suggested that the BC 280s are the cause of this, making the engine appear to like leaner AFR's when its still actually getting a few points richer due to overlap.

i am not totally sure though?

i have given up at this time with the full retune with the better starting point (EVO Map) and moved back to my original map (based on the VR4) that i paid to have tuned and the cars fairly happy. i've added a few features to it, like overrun fuel cut, accelerator enrichment and closed loop idle control and it generally seems good.

i managed to find room for a BOV too. i was getting pretty mad dose so the BOV became a priority!



can you find it?



peekaboo!


everything seems good, IAT are very consistent, not much variation at all. i haven’t used ice yet to cool the res as im just cruising around, but from my first few runs it seems in general the IAT is about 5-10deg above ambient once the car is hot, but it doesn’t change from that at all. I will need to do some proper analysis on some power logs to be sure though.

a short vid i made today playing around with the missus P7000, nothing illegal just cruising.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pyq70gFnbYA

overall i am happy, just being able to drive the car again after so long is a great!