soooooo long time no update.
finally finished organizing getting the motor sorted, here's what i done in the time since the last update.
resealed the sump, that was the reason i took the engine out in the first place. now before anyone mentions i could have done that in the car, the gearbox needed resealing too. so it was just easier to pull the whole lot out.
turned out, sumped leaked because after i cleaned the gasket off the sump, i repainted the surface. the paint came away from the sump and leaked everywhere.
i also had a sump bolt that was stripped, which happened to be the bolt hole right below the cambelt
i just helicoiled it and its perfect again.
i think the gearbox leaked because i was too slow at assembling it. that and i found this as well.
its not the first time i have seen that type of damage to a mitsi gearbox. but its the first time its happened to me. its basically because the nut which holds 5th gear in place has backed out, and pushes against the casing until it cracks.
to be sure i dont get any other fruit and banana leaks, im using toyota black sealant this time. its supposed to be almost the best. i hope so because its not cheap. the stuff has to be assembled in under 3 minutes when using it though.
put a new gaytes timing belt on, after the engine tipped over on the stand, it landed on the exhaust cam and belt, so on the side of caution i thought it best to replace my old (well new'ish) greedy belt.
the exhaust cam gear wasnt damaged much in the accident, a very slight radiusing of one of the teeth. nothing really to worry about.
i ended up routing the oil feed for the turbo behind the manifold and dump pipe. being the old sleeve bearing garret core, the turbo needs a higher oil pressure than a TD05. so the oil feed comes straight off the oil filter housing, where the pressure is highest (upto 100psi+)
i was worried about the temperature behind the turbo though, i have quite often had my turbo extractors glowing red hot. but i have wrapped extractors and i also put some fire braid of the feed line for extra protection.
fingers crossed it will be okay.
Since i put the Link G3 in, getting the car to idle properly when hot was a MOFO!
im thinking this is due to the FIAV (Fast Idle Air Valve) that the stock throttle body use's. for those who dont know, the FIAV is basically a wax pellet, that gets heated by the engine coolant. once melted, the pallet lowers the idle of the engine.
thats an absolute prick to try and tune for with the Link.
So i put a FIAV block off plate in, its basically just a samwhich plate which blocks off some air bypass passages in the throttle body.
i've now installed some prothane engine mounts. i had to order them from the states. the part numbers you want are
3x 13-501 (does cam, gearbox and front mount)
1x 13-506 (does rear mount)
basically cut the old mounts out, not forgetting to smash the mounts sleave out. press the new mounts in.
the only mount you need to modify is the front mount. it needs to be trimmed down about 12mm.
the engine doesnt move at all now, should hopefully help with gear changes. that and increase the effect the cams have on shaking the car up and down when idling
I am now running a N/A thermostat housing because the stock turbo one kacked it when the engine fell over. i am also running the N/A water pump pipe. this isnt a problem for me because my turbo isnt water cooled so i dont need to water bosses the turbo thermostat and pump pipe has.
i actually painted my heatwrap on the manifold black with 1500F heat proof paint. it should only smoke a bit while it cures first time its heated. but i will make sure im close by with a fire extinguisher anyway.
i would have had the gearbox in the car today, but i noticed a lot of hair line cracks in the pressure plate. I've just ordered a new clutch from Clutch Net, basically a 6 Puck cermaic with a 2800lb pressure plate, will take a couple of weeks to arrive though.
Just before the engine cam out, i fried a coil pack. so i brought 6 spares and swapped one in. i've also brought a new barry oil cap because the old one got munted in the incident.
painted the gearbox and transfer case black, because team4g told me so...
brought a billet clutch and brake reservoir cap. it just slides over the top of the stock caps.
i've also started installing my Bride VIOS III Low Max's. i noticed the steering wheel isnt actually lined up with the centre of the stock seat. however the pedals are, which makes the driving position for me rather uncomfortable after a long trip.
i will install the Bride centre to the wheel, then bend the pedals over to line them up as well.
i also ordered another spring for the tial 38mm external wastegate. minimum boost will now be 21psi instead of the 13psi it was before.
that combined with a properly working cyclone system should be enough to push me over 260kw atw
i havent decided if i am going to run with the PWR barrel cooler setup yet. might flip a coin over it later some time.
thats it for now. things are moving, a bit slower than i hoped, but i'll get there.