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So is it done yet... I needs to know, and please for the love of God get more pics and vids up lol

hahaha,

na its not done yet, just sitting in the garage waiting for the motor to come out. i've put my neck out quite badly and havent been able to do SFA for the last 6 weeks

got the borgs engine onto my engine stand, went to flip it over so i could reseal the sump, as i did that it ran away and flipped itself and the engine stand right over!

TRI POD ENGINE STANDS ARE fruit and banana EVIL!

it flipped so fast that it landed square on the exhaust cam and rocker cover.

damage so far apears...

another coil.
thermostat housing is not attached to the engine anymore.
dented to fruit and banana CAS.
bent exhaust cam gear.
cambelt.

im praying the exhaust cam is not actually bent, and i hope it hasnt damaged the cam journal either.

its not as bad as i first thought. my facials when it happened scared away my mate who was helping me.

That sucks to hear man! really sucks! Its strange that it decided to topple over though. I guess it could have been worse, like falling on your toes. I suggest running a dial gauge on the cam to see if it is indeed bent. Better to find out now not later. The rest is just trivial

soooooo long time no update.

finally finished organizing getting the motor sorted, here's what i done in the time since the last update.

resealed the sump, that was the reason i took the engine out in the first place. now before anyone mentions i could have done that in the car, the gearbox needed resealing too. so it was just easier to pull the whole lot out.

turned out, sumped leaked because after i cleaned the gasket off the sump, i repainted the surface. the paint came away from the sump and leaked everywhere.

i also had a sump bolt that was stripped, which happened to be the bolt hole right below the cambelt i just helicoiled it and its perfect again.

i think the gearbox leaked because i was too slow at assembling it. that and i found this as well.



its not the first time i have seen that type of damage to a mitsi gearbox. but its the first time its happened to me. its basically because the nut which holds 5th gear in place has backed out, and pushes against the casing until it cracks.

to be sure i dont get any other fruit and banana leaks, im using toyota black sealant this time. its supposed to be almost the best. i hope so because its not cheap. the stuff has to be assembled in under 3 minutes when using it though.

put a new gaytes timing belt on, after the engine tipped over on the stand, it landed on the exhaust cam and belt, so on the side of caution i thought it best to replace my old (well new'ish) greedy belt.

the exhaust cam gear wasnt damaged much in the accident, a very slight radiusing of one of the teeth. nothing really to worry about.



i ended up routing the oil feed for the turbo behind the manifold and dump pipe. being the old sleeve bearing garret core, the turbo needs a higher oil pressure than a TD05. so the oil feed comes straight off the oil filter housing, where the pressure is highest (upto 100psi+)

i was worried about the temperature behind the turbo though, i have quite often had my turbo extractors glowing red hot. but i have wrapped extractors and i also put some fire braid of the feed line for extra protection.

fingers crossed it will be okay.




Since i put the Link G3 in, getting the car to idle properly when hot was a MOFO!

im thinking this is due to the FIAV (Fast Idle Air Valve) that the stock throttle body use's. for those who dont know, the FIAV is basically a wax pellet, that gets heated by the engine coolant. once melted, the pallet lowers the idle of the engine.

thats an absolute prick to try and tune for with the Link.

So i put a FIAV block off plate in, its basically just a samwhich plate which blocks off some air bypass passages in the throttle body.




i've now installed some prothane engine mounts. i had to order them from the states. the part numbers you want are

3x 13-501 (does cam, gearbox and front mount)
1x 13-506 (does rear mount)

basically cut the old mounts out, not forgetting to smash the mounts sleave out. press the new mounts in.

the only mount you need to modify is the front mount. it needs to be trimmed down about 12mm.

the engine doesnt move at all now, should hopefully help with gear changes. that and increase the effect the cams have on shaking the car up and down when idling



I am now running a N/A thermostat housing because the stock turbo one kacked it when the engine fell over. i am also running the N/A water pump pipe. this isnt a problem for me because my turbo isnt water cooled so i dont need to water bosses the turbo thermostat and pump pipe has.

i actually painted my heatwrap on the manifold black with 1500F heat proof paint. it should only smoke a bit while it cures first time its heated. but i will make sure im close by with a fire extinguisher anyway.



i would have had the gearbox in the car today, but i noticed a lot of hair line cracks in the pressure plate. I've just ordered a new clutch from Clutch Net, basically a 6 Puck cermaic with a 2800lb pressure plate, will take a couple of weeks to arrive though.

Just before the engine cam out, i fried a coil pack. so i brought 6 spares and swapped one in. i've also brought a new barry oil cap because the old one got munted in the incident.



painted the gearbox and transfer case black, because team4g told me so...



brought a billet clutch and brake reservoir cap. it just slides over the top of the stock caps.



i've also started installing my Bride VIOS III Low Max's. i noticed the steering wheel isnt actually lined up with the centre of the stock seat. however the pedals are, which makes the driving position for me rather uncomfortable after a long trip.

i will install the Bride centre to the wheel, then bend the pedals over to line them up as well.



i also ordered another spring for the tial 38mm external wastegate. minimum boost will now be 21psi instead of the 13psi it was before.

that combined with a properly working cyclone system should be enough to push me over 260kw atw

i havent decided if i am going to run with the PWR barrel cooler setup yet. might flip a coin over it later some time.

thats it for now. things are moving, a bit slower than i hoped, but i'll get there.

Awesome to see more progress on the Borg keep us posted =)

so i started putting the seats in, wasnt much fun, however it did turn out well.


i started just by getting some 40mm flat bar from bunnings, bent two supports up so the ass end is level horizontally with the car, then did the same for the front, but bent upwards so the end seating position should be lent about 50mm back wards.



started with the vertical seat supports. because the Brides runners are alot shorter than the stocks these were needed.

as you can see because of the lean backwards they need quite a bit of bending to line up right.

nothing a vice and hammer doesnt fix.




final dummy assembly time, i put the runners on, double checked my spacing for the holes to be drilled. everything is basically held together with nuts and bolts. i probably should have welded the new frame together but because i used galvanized flat bar and i dont have a welder i chose this method.



interesting fact about the CB's. the stock seating position isnt actually centered with the car, i.e. your a driver and the center line of the pedals and steering wheel is to the left of the seat. now i dont know if anyone else has this problem, but it makes longish drives really uncomfortable for me because im sort of sitting diagonal to the controls.

anyway i solved that issue by moving the brides center with the controls. this however left atleast 5" of empty space between the seat and the door.

i filled this in with a couple of 1kg CAMS approved fire extinguishers.

once licked with some paint this is the finished seat mount.


The end result with the fire extinguisher in place.


love this shot!



overall its a marked improvement in actual seating position. unfortunately for some of my friends, there is no shot gun for them any more until they loose some weight

Happy to see the car is looking at lot more driveable. Ah, engine stands - can't live with them, can't live without them.

Hi to4garret I need to find out how to buy the side skirts as yours. I have mirage as yours saloon. Do you have some links or shops were I can buy them. Even second hand.

regards

It's about time!

The wax pellet is a lie, it's actually just a thermostatic coil.

that sounds more plausible than a wax pellet thats for sure.

and another update for those who can be bothered reading it.

when i originally put my battery in the boot, and redid the engine harness, i always had this annoying bunch of wire from the engine bay fuse box that just pissed me off.

so i spent a day tidying it up, it really doesnt look like much but its just one of those things that annoyed me and needed attention





put the gearbox back in with the help of milkandoj, was seriously the easist gearbox i have ever put in, just sort ir slipped in like a 15yo with a 350yo milf. was very impressed that i didnt have to spend an hour coxing it in place.



looks good black too boys!

just for shits an giggles, and to actually make it look like i actualy did shit, i put the PWR back in, mainly to check clearances and figure out how the hell im going to put a BOV, air sensor and resouvoir in.






and just another of the seats

Nice work !

i was thinking about remaking the reservoir i got with the W2A cooler kit i brought. i really wanted some additional space in the boot. but after doing some reading its probably as good as i will be able to get. so i'll leave it as is.

i did some very quick measurements for the coolant piping, i'll need around 16.6m to run front to back twice and a few extra metres for the rad. i was considering using hi temp push-loc but at $44 per metre for 3/4" i think i may try and look for something else...

i whipped up a quick MSPaint of how i think i will run the coolant lines



in the normal setup, i'll use the rad to cool the res, i will also hook the pump up to the ecu and configure the pump to only come on when the AIT sensor reaches 40deg. that way i should be able to take advantage of using the barrel cooler to also cool the water down during cruising/run down. basically giving me the advantage of two radiators.

in the track setup, the idea is to flick a couple of 2 way valves and drop the rad out of the loop. i will fill the res with ice then just run that directly to the barrel, perhaps also filling the internal ice box of the res with dry ice.

in the last image, i switch off two valves then i can drain the res and fill it up with fresh ice. hopefully having the valves there means i wont need to bleed the system all the time. i'll probably chuck the actual drain pipe somewhere behind the rear bumper.

i havent figured out where in the diagram the pump will go. my plan is to hook everything up on the bench and test in which position the pump has the most flow.


any comments? im sure im forgetting something....

The system itself looks well designed. My only comment would be to not use dry ice if the car is going to sit with the dry ice able to act on the coolant while the pump is not running. Dry ice exists at -78.5 Celsius and automotive coolant when placed in a 70/30 mix with water has a freezing point of about -55 Celsius. If the ice has a chance to "sit" on coolant that is not flowing and exchanging heat then I think it will be able to freeze and block up the resevoir passages.

This is not a huge deal obviously since regular ice can be employed. Or there may be an additive other than ethylene glycol that you could utilize to further lower the freezing point of your coolant.