The time has come when I want and need more space in my life.
Car is insured for 10K with Hagerty, and I have receipts for parts totally over 18-19K (not including the parts car hoard) and the labor that went into every corner of the car.
2nd owner, Canadian car - regular seat belts!
Of the roughly 150+ C53A cars left and showing on the registry, this makes it more rare than a Galant VR4, and most EVO's.
The good -
You get everything ... I mean everything.
Shop sign from a US dealership, imported from the US, is part of the deal too.
Recent tint from Xpel products, local pro did the work.
Car sat in my various garages, more than it was driven. Paint is in good condition with some thinning of gloss on front fenders.
Dash in good shape, some small cracking.
Clock works and is just as inaccurate as they all were, should you care.
Doesn't leak or use oil to any degree worth noting.
Car is fast once rolling and on the highway it is boost roll in and no need to downshift. The Cyclone is meant to shine right after the turbo starts to build boost so, the engine sings above 100 KMH.
I have never drag raced the car, never done a burn out, never attempted to slide it around.
You will need to hold onto the steering wheel as the LSD by design does allow slip if one wheel is fully lost for traction but as part of the bias and helical gearing, you will love corners and putting on the power through them.
The basics -
C53A one a handful left in Canada,
3000? KM's since engine and transmission rebuilds/paint
91 Octane pump gas, has been run on 94 but all recent tuning was on 91
91 GVR4 import 4g63t rebuilt on the exterior rotating assembly still original pistons cleaned up from apparent valve content at some point in its life
91 GVR4 import head reworked and painted in 2013-2015
South Bend pressure plate and clutch disc new this season
Currently sitting on Motegi 16" matte black rims with red circumferential pin stripe - low tread 205/55/16" tire setup
ACT Chromoly flywheel new this season - proper prep and bed in with the SBC setup
SSSS Stainless Steel Scatter Shield from 3Speed FWD DSM/CSM turbo - upper cover type modified to fit shifter cable assembly, not designed for the lower cover (AWD type)
New clutch master OEM and slave OEM this season DOT4
Braided Technafit 1G clutch line 1 pc
OEM Fork/pivot ball (no shim!) and TOB /spring clip new this season
Walbro HP 255 rewired
Dent Sport Garage white Delrin shifter knob - rally style shape marked DSG machining
4 gauge upgraded alternator feed to fuse block
Various wire connector upgrades and replacements
Harness cleanup across the front end and engine side in the last few years
HKS 264 272 cams
Fidanza adjustable cam gears
OEM timing belt and hydraulic
Quick release injector connectors installed
780 CC PTE injectors 1500 km's total ?
Cyclone dual runner controlled by Link
OEM turbo cluster with AUS KMH only, gauge faces - 9K RPM tachometer
AC works but not great on super hot and humid days - complete kit to convert after professional removal of R12 currently still installed
EVO3 on stock 12 PSI waste gate rebuilt in 2015,
F5M33 1G DSM FWD transaxle w/Quaife front diff LSD ATB, and syncro upgrades (addition and a double IIRC - see build), painted silver and VHT wrinkle black
2.5" exhaust w/Magnaflow muffler (quiet)
Urethane bushings installed at all for corners for the engine/transmission,
Urethane bushings for the front control arms and rear panhard rod,
Brand new Mobius Hyundai coil pack set with matching Tacho interface module - RPM is rock steady, reads a pinch high after face swap years ago - required needle removal, wires swapped to accommodate Cyclone using stock length 90-94 DSM wire set
3G/4G mirage shifter blend and urethane base plate bushings and new OEM bushings
Transmission shifter bushings/pivots complete overhaul, spare brass eyelet bushings in reserve
KSport coilovers set to stock ride height imported from China through KSport Arizona,
GVR4 front rotors,
Wilwood Dynalite 4 piston front calipers and adapters imported from California,
Technafit braided stainless brake lines front and rear,
50mm racing radiator modified to work with stock rad fan switch setup 12" and 8" slim rad and ac fans
Custom column mounted gauge pod, x5 pods
Defi Racer Blue gauges (Boost/Vacuum, Oil Pressure, Volts, Coolant) imported from Alabama
MTX-L wideband with new sensor this season
Long life coolant new this season and extra included should it be needed
YoshiFab front upper strut bar spaced to clear the Cyclone/TB upper BISS screw location - it sits higher so the bar is spaced higher up to clear
The bad -
The rear wheel arches/entry into the sills towards the front need attention (the worst part on the car), rf strut tower patching required, rf passenger floor pan requires some clean up when last I had it up.
Trunk seam started to show rust, rear wiper motor access hole is rusting, front fenders have some rust, door seams on the driver side starting to rust iirc, small rust spot on the right front top corner of the windshield.
Sunroof dealer installed at delivery, like all the others, unfortunately makes the skin a little wavy on the roof in close proximity.
I suggest a main coolant fan upgrade to a SPAL and a higher output alternator or some cooling ducts to the alternator and or an OEM original regulator/DIODE array as the Bosch rebuilt unit can suffer from heat soak
PTU replacements are en route from Performance Part Out, as the last new OEM one installed this spring seems to have stopped working properly; same issue.
Drove 1000+ km's with the new part, no issues.
Washer fluid pump and container not installed, you would need to come up with your own but you could do a bladder bag and some tubing for all it really matters - short route intercooler was the issue there.
I suspect 2nd gear syncro is getting tired, drives fine unless you try to power shift going up, downshift and/or down and rev blip no issues. Trans came to me with a story about rebuild and pics to show that, it has some upgrades inside, syncro wise.
Driver seat upper right shoulder foam worn thin and you can feel the metal frame behind the fabric, fabric not torn.
Add some stitches to the left front seat upper outer corner, seats were pulled, covers removed and washed in 2009 and some seams sewn, but the top corner on the driver seat has come loose since then.
RF seat base has some JB weld on the base plate where it mounts to the slider bar, they make seriously thin seat base plates, may have a spare in the parts hoard.
Flex section just past the engine oil pan is starting to get louder - new replacement in the ikea cabinet
Because the extra parts are so plentiful, you WILL NEED TO BRING A TRAILER. Rent a UHaul across the street from my house, and rent a tow dolly and drive them one way, or bring your own truck/trailer combination.
There is an MTO license bureau station a few km's from my home. They have line ups across the lot most days.
With the border being closed to travelers from south of the Canadian border, ie the USA, this currently poses a logistical issue with regards to having a new owner be present to sign things over, register paperwork with CBSA/US Customs ahead of travel through a border check point valid for importation of vehicles, etc, but if someone is willing to contact transportation companies, I can help facilitate. The process is fairly straight forward.
If I had to send the car on a flat bed or tow truck across the border to say, Ogdensburg UPS, NY, they accept cars there and it can take a further journey on whatever US transport company is willing to pick it up. The problem is mainly getting all the extra stuff to go with the car. The extra stuff has to go with it, and you can't really make a skid that can be brought across at the same time, unless we get creative. I think it could be done, I would just have to ask around. I know a person in the trucking industry and he would know all kinds of ways to get things across. This is my main reason for suggesting and probably a preference for a Canadian sale at this point. I am still open and willing to look into sales outside Canada.
Spare parts off the top of my head:
Brand new in box NOS General Export Philippine market RHD plastic housing headlamp assemblies with city lights. Requires a small rewire to match bulb arrangement. Come with OEM original bulbs in place from the factory. Opened to inspect and photograph.
Brand new NOS Mitsubishi front fender light kit, from the Philippines.
NIB ACT "2100" Clutch kit - Pressure plate and clutch disc, TOB, etc
Many plastic bins/large totes
Original to this car, silver bumper with cut rebar, in the crate sent from France with the GTI bumper - paperwork from that purchase from France is included
Spare turbo axles left and right, no intermediate shaft, some new Beck Arnley boot kits in reserve
Pair of stock clean C53A front control arms imported from California - SuperPro suspension bushings and offset extra positive caster setup in bags, new ball joints in boxes - all waiting to be installed into the arms
SuperPro bushings for the rear pan hard rod
NEW OEM trailing arm bushings acquired from NY state
Interior plastics from a 91-92 Colt, that show less fade than the originals in the car
Front and red C53A bumpers in R52 red, no lip base model, all Urethane OEM.
Innovate sensor heat sink NIB
Original 4g61t motor pulled after head was machined and gasket replaced as a slick knock developed at roughly 180,000km's on the motor - photos to prove it was worn out bearings, no damage
- Crank was polished and flat style flywheel oiled and sitting upright in wax paper.skid wrap bagging, block untouched, no debris or issues otherwise
4g61t water pump nearly new, most of the parts for the outside of the 4g61t motor including intake TB rebuilt, etc
60mm JDM TB untouched with wire harness
Spare TPS sensor 89 turbo and 90 turbo (different harness lengths)
B pillar spares and C pillar spares
Spare wire set, 450 injectors, old fuel pumps (4g63t)
Spare 1G 4g63 head (have to confirm)
Loads of electrical bits - boxes of wiring harnesses (AC/Chassis/interior, etc), 4x 90 DSM ECU's Eprom (1 currently running Link v3)
Welded front diff
Open front diff with LSD insert installed
Full trunk R52 with glass
Original H84 silver hood - removed to use the large radiator that with work to drop the rad lower, can be reinstalled
Front and side rear glass all intact and not broken
Most of the nuts and bolts from tearing down the C52a R52 colored parts car
PARTS FROM FRANCE - shift boot in car, Laguna front lower lip, dark green GTI/JDM front bumper - cut lower slats to accommodate a Starion intercooler from the M&S recycling AWD Mirage build (miragetec), dark grey dash board in really good shape - couple of cracks
Dash board with some cracks in it - dark grey
Spare seat covers - fronts only? from RedSleeper imported from the US
Box of parts waiting on packaging and shipping from Australia - will have to confirm availability of parts/owner being able to ship at some point - story behind that - would include AUS SX style front turbo style seat covers in light blue and rear head rest installation components, 4 dark head rests IIRC to have a matching set in the car, rear seat frames awaiting said head rest components
1 IKEA floor to ceiling cupboard full of parts - C53A turbo brakes still on knuckles (complete), rear brake pads upgrade, a metric shit ton of old OEM parts like NABCO NOS clutch masters, a clutch slave, gaskets, rear wheel bearings, rear rotors, wiper washer motor, and tons more in boxes that was on close out from rockauto, all in the last year
4 OEM 14" Aluminum C53A turbine rims with OEM center caps (yes those center caps!) with tires still installed but way too old to safely run
4 multi 4x114.3-4x100 Fast wheel 17" rims (clean!) in silver with old tires, center caps included
4 OEM GVR4 wagon rims 8 spoke? restored rims with 205 50 15" Direzza DZ102 tires from 2015 99% tread remaining
4 spacer plates designed to fit the GVR4 rims to the big brake kit
Tool box (not included) full of stuff and spare bits to go on the car or to keep it running - extra silicone hose and random items
Brad Penn racing oil non detergent high zinc content included with sale, it is old but does oil go bad?
OEM Manuals including a binder set imported from Australia
Boxes of NIB OEM parts from Japan to clean up small things like door latch striker plates, door hinges unpainted, front hood latch assembly, nuts bolts light bulbs, gosh knows how much else ..... it is documented and accounted for - my Amayama and Partsouq supply
OEM Mitsu magic trans fluid ($90 for 3 litres!) was not installed after I got the car running this season. It goes too.
I am sure that I am forgetting some things.
The whole car has been gone through, sometimes more than once in the same area so I could say it was up to my standard.
The build thread for more details: Flying Eagle's 1989 Plymouth Colt "SCRAT"
There is work to be done to the car, a shit ton has already been done for you. Pictures to prove everything, but seeing is also believing.
To dicker on the price is to do this community and myself, a disservice.
Car has been in my possession since 2004. Clean title, no liens, vehicle ownership package available at the MTO.
Unsure how taxes work on a car being bought and sent out of country (if any), but if it is a local, you pay on an appraised price because the car is so old.
Consider that the insurance company may want to know what you paid for the car, to back things up a bit but being that Hagerty has this on their radar, should be less of an issue.
Hagerty insured for 10K CDN full replacement in the event of total catastrophic loss, with cherished vehicle salvage, with just a few pictures.
Cost me just over $400 CDN per year, (with tow service in that price makeup) clean record, over 40, must have a primary vehicle to drive to work - primary can't be a motorcycle and must have a locked storage area preferably.
Pictures to follow, it is late when I post this.
PRICE = $ 9K CDN