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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2016 11:14 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 8:23 pm
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Location: Orlando, fl
Yea just tap on it with a punch and hammer is how I have done them in the heavy duty world.

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91 Summit hatch "Sunchaser" R.I.P.
94 Mitsubishi Mirage "4dr"
06 Kawasaki Ninja 250r "daily driver"


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2016 10:41 am 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Make sure they use a brass punch to install them then. It deforms (in most cases) well before the part you are transferring the movement to.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2016 1:15 pm 
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Location: Walnutport, PA
Ah thats a good idea with a brass punch. How do you know how far the hub goes back in btw? It would seem that that could throw off where the rotor lies in the in the caliper. Do you just press it in until the hub bottoms out on the bearing?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 4:39 pm 
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So I got the races out and the hubs ground down. Here is a before and after picture....

Image

I am pretty sure the one ball joint was bad so I am going to go ahead and replace them both while everything is ripped apart. I also figured itd be easier to do with the control arms out and then I can install the Super Pro bushings while I am at it to. Any tips for getting the LCA bushings out and in?

On the case of a different topic I have an innovate MTX-L wideband to install. Would there be any problems installing it into the O2 housing in place of the stock narrowband? The MTX-L has dual outputs that you can use one to mimmick a narrowband for the ECU I believe. I also have a ECMlink v3 to hook up too if that would make a difference. From what I have it seems like ECMlink can just take the wideband signal and simulate a narrowband with it correct?

ANYWAY I am off to a superbowl party I will hopefully get more work done on the car tomorrow


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 12:58 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
You can install it anywhere you want, within reason (too far downstream will have latency issues).

Many people install it in the stock 02 housing location.
Many people install it just below the flange to the downpipe or slightly further down in the proper orientation to avoid water contamination.

Temps in both spots won't be particularly different (for this purpose).

ECMLink says install it in the stock location and they have had no issues.

I welded in a bung just below the downpipe flange, but have put no real miles on the car yet.

Putting it above the flange, and in the stock 02 housing can eliminate and strange readings if you develop a leak (or start with one anyways).


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2016 1:49 pm 
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Location: Walnutport, PA
Well I got both control arms off to put new bushings in. Bad news is I broke one of the endlinks. So I'll have to get new ones. Kind of sucks that I have new endlinks bushings anyway though. I was able to get the old bushings out with a little bit of heat though. Torched a little bit to soften them up and they pretty much slid right off/out. Not I'm just going to clean them up and paint them.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 1:11 pm 
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Missed your other question from a few posts back.

Yes, likely the hub will bottom out when put in far enough. you could always make a little mold with clay that hardens of the distance between the back of the flange to the knuckle body. Not a fun spot to measure in.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 11:51 pm 
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Well both sides have already had the hubs out and I didn't even think of looking at it before having them taken out lol. I assume you would want them snugged in tight but not to tight that would put to much pressure on the bearings.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 1:19 pm 
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The hubs do not put pressure on the bearings that way, the axle shaft gives you the proper preload assuming everything is in the proper position to start with. They may have even get pulled into position a little when you draw in the outer axle cup. As long as the races are seated, the rest should take care of itself. You can always ask someone to take a picture of the hub to knuckle clearance and go by that.
I have pressed a few hubs in too far, or they were too tight when assembled. If you think there is an air of being unsure, you can always have a reputable technician do this for you. Shouldn't cost much to have the hubs pressed together with the bearing cups. I suggest taking it somewhere to do this. Otherwise you use a rather large bolt/washer setup to get it all drawn together. I haven't done one in years, but I will be doing one soon enough in theory. Have to machine down some hub flanges .... non-captive rotor setup sitting in limbo currently.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 3:29 pm 
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Yeah that's what's going on with mine. I'm finally putting the Wilwoods on. It was only 30 bucks to have them taken apart so it'll probably be about the same to have them put back together. Maybe I will go that route. It's just a pain because they can only do it during the week and I can only work on the car on weekends lol.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 5:44 pm 
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So I splurged and bought a 12 ton press to do the bearings and stuff myself. :supz: I also bought the tool for removing inner races because I realized that the garage didn't do that either. So either tonight or tomorrow I will be assembling that and putting stuf back together....Finally...


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 2:01 am 
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So I got the ball joints in, the studs in, and the super pro bushings in with new end links.

Image

Two questions though. As you can see in the pictures each end link is on different....I can't remember which way they went Lol. I'm sure when the arms are in I could figure it out I guess. Other question I have is about the hub. This hub is bare right? There is not and inner race still stuck on it right?

Image


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 9:06 pm 
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Location: Walnutport, PA
Finally got one side assembled! Not everything is tightened down yet and I still have to put the axle in. I will either button it up tonight or tomorrow.
Image


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 11:54 pm 
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So I got the other side done and both axles in. I am going to pick up two outer tie rods tomorrow and put those on then I should be ready to go. Notice on the driver side I put the brake line in the right spot instead of removing a bleeder valve....that was my bad.

Image


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 3:19 pm 
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Location: Walnutport, PA
Cars all back together! Yay!!!! I had to roll the fenders so the tire could clear. I order the ksport coilovers on Monday from Amazon hoping they would be here today but the were back ordered. So I order from another shop for cheaper with a slightly shorter wait time. It'll still be 2-3 weeks they said though. Also started tinkering with the ecmlink. That should be fun. When it's not pouring out and I can clean the car up some I'm going to take some new pictures of the car.


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