4g61t.org

Well these are the ones I ordered. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... 301&jpid=0
Along with the halfshaft bolts from STM for a dsm, along with a bunch of other stuff...Now I just have to make room in the garage to get the car in to work on it lol...

When you first install the halfshaft bolts to the block, make sure the threads are clean in the block all the way down to the skinny portion. The bolts should turn freely, all the way in. Try it with the half shaft there too. Many horror stories of guys breaking them off in there, and then trying to get the remainder back out.

Partsbase.org is a really good tool to look up parts. It's basically online ASA ala Mitsubishi.

Alright will do. It took longer than I thought to swap out the alternator so I didn't get to work on the axles or anything else. If I can borrow a car I'll hopefully start it this week sometime.

Did you install the alternator bolt in the reverse direction? It means you don't have to drop one corner of the drivetrain or two, just to get the bolt to clear the frame.
It would then simply pull out between the exhaust and block.

When I bought the car it had the head of the bolt facing away from the motor and the nut near the exhaust manifold. I ended up just cutting the bolt in half and buying a new one. The car was outside and it was like 25 degrees and I was freezing LOL.

After I finally got it all together I had noticed something leaking on the cardboard I had laid down to get under the car. I thought it was coolant but when I went to move the car the brakes went right to the floor so I am assuming it was brake fluid. I am getting the car into my garage tomorrow to start work on axles, front brakes, and getting my wideband installed that I just got. I also snatched up some FIC 1550 injectors for when the time comes to get the 16g installed and convert to E85

+ Only use grade 8 bolts and blue loctite, use hardened washers to space the halfshaft away from the block until it spins freely (when installed into the trans).

When I first put my halfshaft in, it was pretty hard to turn, a couple washers to space it out and it spun like a top.

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

I'll keep that in mind. I bought Mitsubishi bolts and washers from STM. Unfortunately I have ran into an impass. My lugs use a spline socket and I got three off and then the socket split down the side. I'm hoping my friend has one otherwise I'll be ordering another one...

Torque on our wheels/hubs is 65-80 ft/lbs MAX. You don't normally split sockets even with an impact gun with a stick attached.

Threads on the studs all clean?

It wasn't really a socket. It's a spline key for the lugs. The metal is very thin and I don't know how old it was either. This is what it looks like.
http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/pi/mp/1015356 ... 50&hei=250

Here is the one I broke

It was already flared out a little on the end too before it broke...

So I got the spindles off the car over the weekend. Was going to try and dismantle it all myself but then I was thinking I really don't wanna screw it up. So I'm dropping them off at a garage tomorrow to have the hubs pulled out and bearings taken out. I'll get the rotors and lugs out, modify the hub as the paper says, install new lugs, then take it back to have it all reassembled.

Once I get that all done its onto putting the new axles in.

Okay! So I have the hubs out of the spindle, but it looks like the races for the bearings are still in there eh? They look to be in good condition yet so is it safe to reuse them? The new bearings seem to fit right in there or should I get them out and install new ones?


Edit: Although after looking at the picture much bigger it appears that there is a crack in it...fudge...

Ok so after looking at the races again what I thought was a crack must have just been a smudge of grease. They seem completely smooth and seemingly know visible wear lines or anything. So would it be safe to reuse them?

For the headache of ever going in there again, get the matching races, punch out the old ones, install all new parts. Some say you can, but it's honestly another five to ten dollars for those parts, if that.
Pack the bearings with high quality synthetic grease and install new OEM seals.

The bearings came with races and I bought new seals too. Would I be able to just tap them out with a hammer and punch and just work my way around? When I took them to the garage to have the hubs and bearings taken out I thought it was obvious I wanted the races out too. I would just tell them to put the new races in when I take it back to have it put back together but I never trust places honestly...