4g61t.org

Hey man, don't buy a new tank. I have one sitting in my garage waiting for you to pick it up.
Just a short drive down 145 and its yours! Shoot me a text or call me at 6one0-417-77two7.

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go fast- break stuff- repair- repeat

So some good news today. I played hooked from work to get some stuff done on my car. Went and picked up the tank from Jeremy 2 weekends ago and went to put it in the other day and I looked at it looked at mine and started second guessing whether I should just buy and new one and know it won't cause problems...so thats what I did. Bought all new filters new tank and even a new walbro 255...although I bought the wrong one...ugh. I just put the other one back in as it still works. I was just going to put a new one in and I may still do it at some point. I also managed to find the longer lugs for the wilwood brake kit so that should all be ready to install when I get the chance.
I may have to have surgery on my wrist though for my carpal tunnel so that won't be fun and will hold things up. I also picked up a set of hood pins to keep the hood in place since the bracing under the latch was cut. They aren't the exact ones I wanted but they'll work I hope. They are a set of aerocatch flush mounts. Should be fun installing them lol.

Oh it has a bleeder style boost controller which way is less boost? It's hitting almost 15 the way it's set now I tried loosening the screw and it didn't seem to make a difference.

I suggest running stock boost until you have everything sorted out, including your fuel system and control mechanisms.

Get it running stock (remove the plumbing on the boost controller and revert to a stock simple setup).

Once you start running higher boost, many things require attention including the vacuum system/catch can setup, and more.

Well the original stock stuff doesn't seem to be there I don't think and I am trying to run stock boost level. I opened it up and it is actually a ball and spring style. Not sure why it isn't letting pressure through tho. I may just run a vacuum line from the j pipe to the waste gate and see what that does. The stock spring in the waste gate is for like 8 or 9 lbs right?

So I pulled the ball and spring out of the manual boost controller and it showed about 9 peaked at like 10 briefly but held around 9. So the waste gate is working fine. I wonder if the spring is just to stiff in the mbc (it kind of looks home made) or maybe the vac lines are just to long. maybe I'll tinker with that tomorrow and fix my alternator wires that shorted out on the exhaust manifold while driving home from work. Well I didn't get a mitsubishi because I hated working on cars lol...

Time to source a shield for the exhaust manifold, 02 housing and have one tacked on the downpipe section.

Those exhaust gases are going to kill the alternator internals, and overheat lots of things as you are finding out.

The further from heat you get the alternator wiring, the more amperage it will flow, and the same goes for the alternator.

Happy to see you are making progress.

Yeah I might have to do that. Should check if there's a heat shield in the pile. The wires also weren't ran right I don't think when I installed the intercooler piping. I covered up where the shielding melted put some more cover over them and routed them away from the manifold more. The alternator is still uncomfortably close to the manifold. Can't believe I didn't notice that before.

So I went to replace the clutch slave cylinder since I knew it was leaking and I had a new one in the pile. As I was pulling it off it pretty much fell apart lol. Also the boot for the clutch fork was shot beyond use so I had to order a new one...hopefully it won't take long. Think I'm going to drain and replace the tranny fluid right away while I'm at it.





Also in the second picture there looks to be a bolt hole missing a bolt? Any ideas what should be in there?

UGH...Pictures aren't working...FIXED!

So I got the new slave cylinder installed and the boot, bled the clutch, adjusted the clutch pedal, and it still has trouble downshifting. So I am going to try to swap the tranny fluid and that MAY fix it I hope? But I am looking for a FWD trans anyway or maybe a rebuild kit. I got a new ECU on the way so I can finally get the interior back together. I was also having fuel cut issues at higher RPM and then I learned the MAF-T was set for a 3.5in sensor and I apparently have a 3in. So that was an easy fix. LOL

What shifter and trans are in there now? It shifts fine but doesn't down shift?

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

It's a 90 dsm FWD trans stock shift I believe and I THINK its the DSM shift linkages. I know when I looked at adjustingvto linkages properly it involved getting a longer turnbuckle and I actually have to keep it adjusted pretty short to be able to get to reverse/5th. I also seem to remember Karl saying he used the DSM linkages because he didn't switch the shift arms or anything.
It only grind when down shifting to second and first if I'm going like more than 5mph. I also have to go second first. I cant just put it into first without going to second before.

Get it adjusted ASAP, or you will damage the syncros further.

Get what adjusted? I did adjust the clutch pedal as per the video by jacks transmissions and the linkages are adjusted s I can get it in all the gears. Not sure what else I would adjust?

Search through Jafromobile's videos on youtube. He modded a dsm shifter/linkages on his colt.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual