4g61t.org

Ughhh 10w 30 I believe. Castrol edge full synthetic. It is due for an oil change soon though.

Oil pressure won't affect the crankcase pressurization issue, but just wanted to make sure that you had appropriate oil viscosity.

Wonder what sort of pressure is building up in your engines lower cavities?

Have you done a leak down test or a compression test on the motor yet?

If you had sticking rings, it could be enough to keep the combustions pressures from being "mostly" sealed as they are designed to be.

The car did sit for a long time after all, very long time.

Hoping you don't have any permanent damage like broken ring lands.

A boroscope in the spark plug hole could tell you this, as scoring would be very evident.

I didn't do any compression or leakdown test yet. Will be doing that tonight hopefully or tomorrow morning.

One thing I do know though is the seal for the dipstick isn't the greatest so that could be part of the problem.

Just crimp the dipstick tube slightly, common problem with the 4G63's.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

Yeah I saw someone mention that before. But even still it shot a lot of oil all over the place would that be normal if the dipstick wasn't in? I did a compression test but I'm not completely sure of how accurate the gauge is. It showed 120+ on all 4 cylinders though. The motor wasn't completely warm either though. I also discovered an interesting issue where if I hit the key to start it just keeps turning over until I pull the positive off the battery...so there's that... That only started though since I pulled the plug wires off and disconnected the fuel pump.

If the dip stick was out and you got on it, it would be normal for pressure to build and it shoot oil out like that. I also had that problem once with my starter. It was with a rebuilt napa unit. Took it back and traded it for another one and no more problems.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

Well the starter randomly started working like it should...weird...I am still going to pull it out and check the wiring to it this weekend.

I squeezed the end of the dipstick tube a little and the dipstick is staying in now. I smell a faint oil smell though when I get on it though and it builds boost. There is still a hole in my firewall that's near the vent for the catch can so that would be normal though right?

From the factory and to pass many safety inspections, there can be no holes from the engine compartment, into the vehicle interior. Same goes for the exhaust systems having to pass to the rear bumper, and not end under the vehicle unless designed and delivered from the factory that way. I highly suggest getting that fixed.

The starter issue bothers me, could be a sticking relay/solenoid on the top of the starter. My new "used" starter did the "clunk" and refused to start the other day, as it does when you hose it down and leave it sit to rust up. Ignition switch contacts and starter solenoids are getting pretty common, especially when people tap their radio and other accessories into those components, when they should 100% be run separate and fused as such.

I suggest getting a new dipstick, they cost next to nothing. JNZ or RTM Racing keep them in stock.

Definitely check for the cause of excessive pressure in your crank case.

Yeah I'd like to get that figured out. When doing the leakdown testvhow much pressure should I use and what is the easiest way to know when both sets of valves are supposed to be closed on the cylinder? I am going to try and do that tomorrow when I pull the starter and inspect the unit and wiring. If I can't get to the leakdown test tomorrow it'll be done Monday. For a day and a half the starter worked just fine then today it did it again...but only once lol.

I know the hole needs to be closed BTW. It just hasn't been high in my lost of priorities at the moment. I cut the drain off the ac section of the box to run the wires through that hole but the plan changed and I just ran it through the stock location because I had an extra hand to force it through.

The leakdown tester gets plugged into shop air, then you dial it to meet the "zero" mark on the last gauge down the line. Once it is set, and you connect the motor tubing to the machine, and you move the motor by hand (wrench is best or breaker bar and socket) so it doesn't move into the free spinning action of the ratchet as it makes and or releases pressures in the cylinder. Remember the 1-3-4-2 firing order and follow those cylinders, but it really doesn't matter where you start or finish because the event you want occurs regardless, once the two valves close and piston is up. You will literally hit a wall when you get to the pressure zone and see your maximum leakage results.

See this link for further instruction:

Leakdown Tester

Eric the Car Guy shows you a thing

Those trucks do like to break valve springs ... I've had to diagnose why it wouldn't run and why it rattled so much. Bought a tester and found the non-contributing cylinder even though misfires were set as DTC's on multiple cylinders. Swapped all hardware including plugs and misfire moved when it should have stayed, it moved engine sides on a V block! Anyways ... try out a tester, even one of the rentals from your local parts shops. Do all cylinders and record the results.

So I got good news and bad news. Good news is I think I found out where the crank case pressure is coming from. I did a leak down test but the engine was cold... which isn't ideal I know. Cylinders 2,3,4 leak through the rings a little but cylinder 1 leaked a decent amount...definitely more than the other 3.

Now the starter. The starter has continuity between the hot wire and the solenoid signal wire. So...autozone has a solenoid for $52 or a remanufactured starter for $63 or a new starter for $40. So I think I will just get a new one lol.

Get whatever comes with the longest over the counter warranty, (good at any location), you can get your hands on.

So its been a while. Haven't done to much with the car I guess. I pulled the starter out took the solenoid apart didn't see anything obviously wrong with it. Put it back in and its been working fine ever since. So now I am getting a strange noise from the front while making left turns. At slow speed it sounds like the axle is binding up. At driving speed its more of a whirring and its louder while on the throttle. I assume the axle went bad. In the parts pile I have a set of axles that I assume came from the doaner car. Anyway to tell for sure and will they work?

Better have those splines inspected, before any parts in that condition are put to use. Rust that thick will wedge things in place pretty good .... assuming they are the correct parts.

A few search in the axle threads and you can confim the orientation of the intermediate shaft hanger bearing orientation. Can't say for sure without a pic for comparison.