4g61t.org

Specializing in the 3g CSM
It is currently Fri Jan 17, 2020 2:08 pm

All times are UTC-05:00




Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 26 posts ]  Go to page 1 2 Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 5:35 pm 
Offline
Member

Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 8:15 pm
Posts: 52
Location: Bel Air, MD
Loooooonnng time lurker, but its come time to post photos. I bought this car just out of college in late 2008 from 904g63summit. Bought a 1994 GSX that was pretty thrashed for all the running gear. From there, everything sat until last year or so, when I finally finished grad school, bought a house, and actually had a garage to work in. In those years I've been collecting bits little by little, but now the time has come to put it all back together. Pretty sure everything I've put on this car, less the motor mounts and LCA, has come from eBay, Craigslist, or the junk yard. Thanks to 89MirageMan for the mounts. The goal is to have a car I can say I've touched almost every part of. Enough rambling, on with the pics.

In the foreground - a 2.4L block I scored off a convertible 2G Eclipse
Image

Mock up motor and 2G trans - I'm going to take a bit of a gamble here and see if I can fab a crossmember that'll work with the 2G trans mounts. Front mount looks easy - rear mount hits the rack.
Image

4 bolt rear and all!
Image

Ok, I'll admit, interiors aren't my forte.
Image

Other bits I've gathered on the cheap: HX35, a big big intercooler, 2.4L DOHC pistons on Eagle rods, Mustang wheels for mock-up purposes, 3000GT calipers/mounts, 1G and 2G heads, and who knows what else. Plans have evolved a lot in the recent year (scope creep), but now that I'm moving on it, I'd like to get it back rolling before the end of winter, then do all the wiring harness and whatnot in the spring.


Last edited by poorboychevelle on Sun Sep 18, 2016 9:06 am, edited 2 times in total.

Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 1:04 pm 
Offline
Member

Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 8:15 pm
Posts: 52
Location: Bel Air, MD
Small bits of progress. If I put the original auto crossmember back in up front, its pretty close on the front trans mount, and just touches the transfer case. I'm going to try to just shift the whole thing over a bit, and redrill the chassis mount locations.

Next big step after that is the driveshaft, and the engineer in me is dying to get it right. Here's my plan: Going to shorten the DS to a 2 piece, one long one up front, factory rear piece. I've got the car level on the stands, I'll get the engine mounts set up so the T-case output is level. Spicer says for a multi-piece driveshaft you can run the first segment straight out of the transmission like a jackshaft, and then have the standard equal and opposite working angles on the rear piece. With that in mind, if the car is level, the Tcase is level, and the rear is level, if I know the length of that rear shaft I can do a bit of trig to work out how far below the Tcase the pinion needs to be to get a 1-2 degree working angle on the last shaft. Laser level and a tape measure and I am set. get the rear level, tires centered in the wheelwells to allow me maximum tire diameter choices, and centered left to right and I am good to go. (can you tell I'm a mechanical engineer by profession?)

Once thats in I seriously think I might go Jafromobile on the strut mounts. Its a lot of tin work, but I think its the best way.


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 6:27 pm 
Offline
Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood

Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 8:23 pm
Posts: 342
Location: Orlando, fl
Sounds like its coming along cant wait for more pics. I love jafromobile's videos

_________________
91 Summit hatch "Sunchaser" R.I.P.
94 Mitsubishi Mirage "4dr"
06 Kawasaki Ninja 250r "daily driver"


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 8:38 am 
Offline
Member

Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 8:15 pm
Posts: 52
Location: Bel Air, MD
Progress! To be supported by pretty pictures as soon as I get a little time. Since my last post I've tacked the rear in, realized it was all wrong, cut it loose, got distracted remodeling the basement, spent 10 weekends at various climbing competitions, and then finally tacked the rear back in. Its close to perfect, I think if I shim out some areas it'll be spot on.

I have no idea how you guys are welding those rear subframe mounts to that paper thing stuff in the rear seatwell are - even with my welder set as low as it goes I blow holes in the thing.

Roll stop mount is 80% done, which hold the front trans mount for the 2G trans, not so sure how I am going to manage the back mount.

Braided brake lines and rotors came in this week. Biggest issue I have now is I scored a pair of adjustable struts on the cheap, but they came with lowering springs. Going to have to consider what that means to me in terms of cutting the shock towers loose and lowering them. After that I'll finish weld everything, brace up everything, and start on the driveshaft mounts and start on the motor build. Putting a "Painless" style wiring harness in it as soon as I can roll it out of the garage to a different location.


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2015 12:23 pm 
Offline
Member

Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 8:15 pm
Posts: 52
Location: Bel Air, MD
Ugly welds ahead.... but, the strut towers are done. I'd have done it a little different if I had to do it again. AGX adjustables in all 4 corners, lowering springs too but they might have to go. You can see that I cut the whole darn fenderwell out on the drivers-side, ala jafromobile, since I had no idea where the shock was going to need to go. The passenger side I had more room to work since there is a big bulge to leave room for the fuel filler neck, and since I knew where things had to go I left a lot more intact. I know the welds look raised and more than a little cold in spots, but the important ones, the tower to window frame and the tower to inboard support (which ties into the rear crossmember) are solid. The rest, patching the tin-work together, are more a series of overlapping tacks in places - even set to the lowest amperage the FCAW I have just blows holes through it (will be turning my wire speed up a touch for the next fender). Other notes - rotors are in, pads are in, front and rear mounts just need final seams welded and all the gaps buttoned up, then a coat of paint on everything.

On with the pictures:
Image
Image
Image


Top
   
PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2015 8:24 am 
Offline
Member

Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 9:36 pm
Posts: 194
Location: connecticut
Well I started my build in 2006 and finished it last fall so I may be the benchmark to beat. I also started with a clean shell. I found that taking my time made for very good fabrication when I worked on it. I was in no rush but lost my ambition from time to time since the end seamed so far away. I can tell you I love the end product, this car puts a smile on the face of everyone I have given a ride to. I used a 1G driveline but if you need ideas here is a link to the build thread.
Keep up the good work!!
Mark

http://www.4g61t.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=31998


Top
   
PostPosted: Sat Jul 18, 2015 6:06 pm 
Offline
Member

Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 8:15 pm
Posts: 52
Location: Bel Air, MD
Updates: Finished buttoning up the passenger side fender, looks waaay better than the driver side. Need to finish welding up all the little gaps on the main mounts. Also built up adjustable upper and lower control arms out of Afco bits. Getting ready to mount the carrier bearing I realized mine was blown. Took a gamble and order a carrier bearing for a mitsubishi mighty max truck. It fits, and advantages being that the mounting tabs on it are flat so the mounts will be easier to build, its got slots to let me jockey it left to right (will tack a washer in there once I get it just right), and it mounts hard, so no rubber grommets to replace. Will keep everyone posted on how it turns out. Fighting shifter cables now. It was a 1.5 auto car, I have a 2G trans, and the shift gear from a 1G..... might have to take a spin to the junkyard to try and find enough bits to make it all work - any suggestions?

Image
Image
Image
Image


Top
   
PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 9:54 am 
Offline
CSM Junkie

Joined: Wed Jan 30, 2008 7:55 pm
Posts: 447
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
i swapped a 1.5 to awd 4g63t in a month. thats completed running driving. of course i didnt touch the engine or trans. i welded in the rear the easiest possible way. really ghetto work compared to many others but it worked well

i was working 4 ten hr days a week and that was when i had no kids. i was putting in over 40 hrs a week on the car sometimes.

i had the rear end completed plus gas tank relocated in one day


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 12:42 pm 
Offline
Member

Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 8:15 pm
Posts: 52
Location: Bel Air, MD
Yea, time has not been on my side. I work 40+ each week sitting at a desk trying to make 747-8s more profitable, the drive is 45+ minutes each way. The gf works farther away so I'm usually on the hook for cooking dinner. One night a week I'm at the gym, all that to support a competitive climbing season that sucks up nearly 10 Saturdays a year, plus just climbing for fun. And then keeping my other 4 hoopdies running (RaceCar1, 91 MR2 Non-Turbo, '95 RoadMaster Wagon, '01 XR650R). I've definitely put this on the back burner compared to my other passions (the gf, climbing, being employed) but I've been tinkering more and more now that I've got all the tools. If you put in 40 hours a week, and it took a month, and I put in 4 hours a week on a ground up shell build..... I'll see you at the shootout sometime around 2025.

That said, I've cut the floor out to fit the carrier bearing, going to start building the mounts tonight - ran out of grinder blades again, and smoked my second grinder. I was dual wielding for a while - one for cutting\grinding, one for wirewheel to clean up before weld. Made the work go waaaaay faster. Things are going faster now that I found a place that'll sell me the little steel scraps I need at $0.30 a pound. I'll use that to finish the front mounts and carrier mount. After that, I'm putting this baby back on the ground!


Top
   
PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 7:39 am 
Offline
Member

Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 8:15 pm
Posts: 52
Location: Bel Air, MD
Still crawling to the finish here. New acquisitions - HX52, 1600cc injectors, Evo valve springs and retainers, forward mount turbo manifold. Going to switch gears and focus on rewiring the cabin\lights and setting the stage for wiring in the Megasquirt. I can say that because.....


.... she's on the ground!
Image

Haven't patched the giant holes in the rear floor pan, but thats a later problem. Even welded the driveshaft carrier in (to be reinforced as needed):

Image

This leaves finishing up the motor roll mounts. I have a cross member I built that will support the front roll mount. Rear mount I have reinforced the firewall just above the steering rack mounts to cantilever something off of. Which leads me to my next problem. The forward-facing turbo manifold I bought was either built for someone with a much longer nose (Talon?), or was built so that they could put that turbo inlet right there in the front bumper. Which means I either need to shorten the manifold, or hack away even more of my radiator mount area......


Last edited by poorboychevelle on Sun Jan 24, 2016 10:23 am, edited 4 times in total.

Top
   
PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 9:32 am 
Offline
Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 04, 2009 12:06 am
Posts: 259
Location: San diego,California
Good work man.it will be a beast when its complete.

_________________
1989 Mirage Turbo (Daily).
'89 DODGE COLT GT TURBO.
---------------x------- X15 --------x---------------
1989 PLYMOTH COLT GT 12v - SOLD
1994 DIAMANTE - SOLD


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2015 6:11 pm 
Offline
The happy administrator
User avatar

Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2004 3:20 pm
Posts: 5583
Location: Wisconsin
Pics aren't working. Try uploading them to Postimg.org and editing in links.

_________________
Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd


Top
   
PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2016 10:32 am 
Offline
Member

Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 8:15 pm
Posts: 52
Location: Bel Air, MD
So I've been doing everything thats not the engine... trimming down the wiring harnesses to the bare bones, patching floor panels, battery box + emergency disconnect + 200A breaker, brake lines, etc. etc. Tax refund will hopefully afford me the ability to bore\assemble the engine and do the head up nicely.

Pics of the $150 eBay manifold that I am going to build the front of the car around:
Image

Image


Top
   
PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2016 12:55 pm 
Offline
Member
User avatar

Joined: Tue May 28, 2002 11:13 am
Posts: 63
Location: Nothern California, 95066
That is a huuge compressor housing, is that a tractor turbo, have you looked at its specs?

_________________
Got 1970 SS ?


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2016 7:34 pm 
Offline
Member

Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 8:15 pm
Posts: 52
Location: Bel Air, MD
Sharkmobil - its an HX52, yes its a monster, I probably paid waaay too much for it given the shape its in. It'll be lag city, but with a twin scroll turbine housing and 2.4L behind it.... maybe. And to answer your sig - I have a 70, the bumper says SS, but thats just leftover from the donor car. 402, Muncie 4 speed, 4.11 12 bolt, John Deere Blitz black paint....

Progress - stripping down the Colt Vista I bought yielded a 6 bolt 4G64 that'll be the temporary motor. I'll replace it with a 7 bolt DOHC 4G64 later (building the 7 bolt because I have a set of 7 bolt Eagle rods with matching 4G64 pistons). Cell is hung, battery mounted, kill switch installed.

Image

Image

Image


*Edit - LRV\Vista axles definitely don't fit. DSM axles should fit with the DSM knuckles and Elantra LCA, but the driver's side is still fighting me, I just can't quite get the axle, strut, and knuckle to be in the right relation at the same time, and its starting to damage my calm.


Last edited by poorboychevelle on Mon Nov 07, 2016 8:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 26 posts ]  Go to page 1 2 Next

All times are UTC-05:00


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited