I'm still inching along on this thing. As with most projects, the little details take longer than expected.
I upgraded to the 20mm elantra front swaybar since the engine/trans is out and it's super easy to get to.
New end-links from none other than rockauto.
280mm front rotors for a nissan sentra I believe, need to check the part #. I bought them back in the day for like $10 shipped each for my Summit wagon and never got around to using them. I also removed the stock front hubs and modded them so that the rotor would slide over them so no more captive rotor setup.
Wheels bolted on and back on the ground. I'm sure the engine/trans will drop the front an inch or two. Plus there are some parts in the hatch weighing it down. I still think I'll end up having to mod something in the rear though to raise it up a bit. We'll see.
Cable clutch pedal and manual brake pedal assembly ready to go in.
The hole was already in the firewall for the clutch cable to pass through, it was just capped off with a rubber plug. The actual bracket that's spot-welded to hold the cable in place was missing though so I fabbed something up. I started with a piece of 1/8" x 1" flat bar. I reamed a hole out in the center and drilled two smaller holes for the bolts to pass through. Then I chopped up the 4G15 water pipe and robbed a few inches since it fit the cable perfectly. A few welds to hold it together followed by some primer and satin black and it was ready to bolt in.
Both pedal assemblies bolted in.
I grabbed the 4g shifter assembly when I pulled the trans a while back. For some reason the auto and manual 3g shifters use different mounting points up front. The rear two holes are in the right spot and bolt up perfectly though. For the front some more 1/8" x 1" flat bar to the rescue. I cut a piece and bent it to fit the floorpan and drilled the two mounting holes and bolted it in place. Then I carefully lined up the 4g shifter assembly and marked where I needed to trim the base to give the front mounting bolts clearance. Mocked it up again and marked it, took it all back out and welded it up.
I also took the time to replace all of the soft or missing 4g bushings with the much stronger ones from a 1g dsm. This really tightened it up.
Where the cables pass through the firewall on the 4g is slightly different. Which isn't a big deal since that part has to be cut and drilled anyway. After marking it I used a punch to dimple the mounting holes to keep the bit from walking since its kinda awkward drilling there. Then I used a dremel and cutoff wheel to cut the square hole for the cables to pass through and bolted it up.
The entire dash was also pulled so that I could remove the 1.5 engine harness. I'll leave it out until the engine goes in. I plan to put the dsm harness in and plug everything up and then go back and loom and tape it all back up so that it looks like it was meant to be there. Some of the connectors for the A/C and brake M/C and other misc stuff are in different places on the dsm harness.
I stripped off all of the original loom and lengthened the wires on the white connector by the yellow ecu plugs. This allows all three of the connectors that plug into the 3g dash harness to be together. I plan to mount the ecu under the shift cables where the tcu was. I also removed everything on the dsm harness that I won't be using to make it look cleaner. I don't like a bunch of unused plugs hanging around in the engine bay.