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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 7:02 am 
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One coil serves cylinders 1 and 4 and the other coil serves cylinders 2 and 3. On '90-'94 DSMs and '89-'92 CSMs the "left" coil, if you are looking straight at the terminals, is for cylinders 1 and 4 and the "right" coil is for cylinders 2 and 3. The exact order does not matter but a typical way to put it is 1,4,3,2 or 4,1,2,3.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 1:57 pm 
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hope this helps..

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w72/ ... _order.jpg


Steve

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On drag radials.auto trans.launching @ 5 psi and no traction thru 2nd.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 5:24 pm 
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awesome so they are connected right... the ngk numbering just doesnt make sense then. on the box it says cable matched to cylinder id.. but they dont seem to be in order which confused me.



here is some pics from the ic setup. ill post some more today as i finish putting everything else back together.
sorry about the quality only have my phone and light was crap

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if your wondering what that blue coupler is doing without clamps... its not linking anything, im using it to stop the ic pipe from rubbing against the car.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 6:18 am 
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I'm wondering if you have boost leak tested that wonderful mess of couplers! Be sure to.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 7:43 am 
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well ive run the car and so far it seems good.
but when you say boost leak test how exactly do you mean?\
if its holding steady pressure?

ive had to get a universal intercooler piping kit as i couldnt find any for my car, and around where iam is not many people that can make it up so without being able to move the car (unless i use a car trailer) i had no choice but to coupler it up .
but i did make the tbolt clamps pretty damn tight. i will hopefully at some point find someone that can weld the pipes up for me.

was thinking of putting some soapy water around all the joins to see if it bubbles (leak test)


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:05 am 
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Yup, soapy water and the method seen here: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 10:07 am 
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Big thing to remember for boost leak testing:

Use REGULATED air!

You don't want to supply so much pressure that you blow out seals in your TB or other components.
Use a regulator on your compressor to dial in something like 15-20 psi max for your application.

I've constructed a boost leak tester with a plumbing end cap (rubber) in the appropriate size to put on the intake nose to the turbo housing, and drill a hole in the center just big enough to pull a tire valve stem through (coated at the base of the stem with RTV. RTV cures and you have an air tight setup. Now you can get a handheld air tool with a handle, and the little clip on the end that keeps it secured to the stem, and you can use the handle to apply air pressure or not. Keeps it from popping off and you don't have to hold the stem so much. Under $5 total.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 4:21 pm 
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i dont have an air compressor as such. im slowly rebuilding my tools section after my move last year.
what I do have is an electric air compressor (pump for your tyres).
I think that should do it (yes it will take ages but I think it should work)

now just to make sure I understood correctly.
you run that boost leak tester from the intake of your turbo leaving all ic piping in place right?
obviously with the engine off.

will my boost gauge show pressure from this test? (the gauge on my pump is a little temperamental)


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 4:25 pm 
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The FAQ link I provided details how to make exactly what Tim described and how to do the test. Yes your boost gauge will show pressure and is also discussed in the FAQ.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 6:33 pm 
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Those mini air pumps cannot supply enough volume of air to work at all. Bike pumps, the long handle ground standers, are also similarly hard to work with for that reason.

Follow CSM Shaun's advice. 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 8:46 pm 
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no worries ill try that.
just anopther quick one i just ran the car (idle) and when i rev the engine it revs out at around 6500 rpm.. is that normal my rev gauge goes to 9000 rpm

im sure it used to rev out all the way actually!

unless it doesnt rev all that way in neutral? but it liturally does the same thing as when u ping it out (bounces)


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:49 pm 
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i just drove it around the block quickly i do think its reving out to 9000 rpm the gauge gets to 6000 and then sorta jumps around a bit up and then back down when i let go.. might have a dodgy connection?

also whats the stock psi for a 4g61t

and in regards to oil pressures.
i found the thread titled good oil pressures on here...

so i finally actually got some power to my oil pressure gauge and turned it on.
im reading 90 psi when the car kicks over and then it drops slowly to 50-60 psi.
seems rather high to me??
i put the new sensor in the exact same spot the original oil pressure sensor was (it was the only thread that fit perfectly)
i think the car is running magnatec for oil (10 w 30) atleast that was what the guy said to me when i bought this car. checked oil levels and its 1 mm above the full mark.
any ideas?
I think an oil change and filter change might be due... the car has been sitting for a while to wondering if that can mess with the oil?


EDIT: i just did the silly mistake of starting the engine with the oil pressure sensor of. squirted out atleast a good litre and a half of oil (i shut the car of straight away but it came out quick)
so i put the sensor back in (oil is now under the low line) started the car for 2 seconds to see what it would read and yeah still starts at 80 psi (cold) even with most of the oil gone. that cant be right?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 11:03 am 
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I believe the stock limiter is set at around 7500. Stock boost is 7-9psi depending. Change the oil.

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