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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 11:07 am 
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Location: Stantonsburg, NC
I pulled a 2.4 SOHC 7 bolt 4G64 from an Expo wagon probably a year ago from the junkyard, think it had a little over 100k. As a matter of fact I remember the day very well because I had recently got my Colt running and got lightly rear-ended by a lady that wasn't paying attention on the way home. I tore the engine down shortly after and sent it off to the local machine shop to have the block baked and cleaned and the cylinders honed, along with a light polish on the crank. Everything was in mint shape. So then I hosed it all down with WD40, put it all in plastic bags and let it sit in the corner of the shop for a while. Recently I decided to dig it out and get to work. Here's where I am so far.

Block painted with new freeze plugs and also new plugs pressed into the deck for the DOHC conversion.

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Now it was time to clean up the internals. No idea where I learned about this stuff at but I wish I'd have known about it years ago. It's around $19 at Wal-Mart and you can thank the late night stockers for the huge dent :D .

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First test was a piston/rod combo. If you place one upside down you can get two in there at once. Let it sit overnight and took them out the next day. Shot them with carb/choke cleaner and I was amazed at the results.

Before:
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After:
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I still had to break an old ring and clean out the ring lands, then soaked them again and they came out looking new. Much less work than my last rebuild where I used a soft wirewheel on my bench grinder to get the pistons clean and still couldn't get to the hard to reach crevices.

I had excellent results with Enginetech parts from Rockauto on my last rebuild for rings and bearings so I placed another order for standard parts. The rings were made in Japan and the bearings in Israel. I want to say it was around $80 shipped for the rings, rod and main bearings. Hard to beat. Plastigauged the bearings and they were within spec, same thing with the rings, the gaps were within spec. I won't bore you with pics of the build, mainly because I was trying to focus and my hands were oily and I didn't take any :lol: . Here is a pic with it assembled and some other parts painted and mounted.

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My oil pan was trashed and I searched and searched for a good 2g turbo oil pan with no luck. A 98 Galant showed up at one of the local yards and Thank God it was mint. About 20 min and $19 later I had what I needed. I found a no weld oil return fitting on ebay and decided to give it a try. Looked like a quality piece and only required one hole to be drilled, I can handle that. So I had an old dented turbo pan to take measurements from, transferred them over to the new NA pan where thankfully Mitsu decided to leave the flat spot for the oil drain mounting flange. Carefully drilled a pilot hole and worked my way up with a uni-bit.

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de-burred the inside:
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Armed with my trusty Harbor Freight angle grinder and a wire wheel I tackled the 20 y/o sealant. This is by far the easiest way I've found to remove that crap.

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It probably took ten minutes total to get it all off using this method vs an hour or more using a razor blade. Plus this cleans it way better.

before/after:
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So after a thorough clean I used my DA sander with some 180 grit paper to remove any scratches in the paint on the bottom of the pan.

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Some VHT high heat engine primer and semi gloss black:

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After letting the primer dry for an hour or so I lightly went over it with a scotchbrite pad, then the black paint.

Good as new:

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_________________
93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 11:09 am 
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Joined: Sat May 14, 2005 11:15 pm
Posts: 7515
Location: Stantonsburg, NC
Sadly no before pics but another testimony to how much I love this chem-dip. This pick up tube was brown and gunky. After letting it soak for a few days and spraying it down with carb cleaner it looked new again.

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I soaked the oil pan mounting bolts in gas to remove the gunk. Then one by one held them lightly with vice-grips and cleaned them up using my bench grinder's wire wheel. Cut some slits in an old box and pushed them in for a light coat of primer and some dutch boy chrome paint that I had laying around. Chrome paint usually just looks like aluminum after it cures so I figured it would work for these bolts.

Primer:
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Chrome:
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I let them dry in my barn for the better part of a day and it gets really hot in there so the paint cured pretty fast. I assembled the no weld barb using the included rubber covered metal washers along with some blue loc-tite and tightened the crap out of it using my 24v impact. After wiping down both mounting surfaces with carb cleaner I laid a nice bead of Permetex The Right Stuff sealant on the oil pan flange. I carefully placed it onto the engine and started all of my mounting bolts. I was sure to put the two shorter bolts that go under the t-belt in the right spot using my factory service manual. Then I just tightened them finger tight and gave it 5-10 min to cure a little. Then I carefully tightened it down a little until the sealant barely started to squish out. Let it cure over night and did my final torque the following day.

All buttoned up:
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_________________
93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 11:10 am 
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Joined: Sat May 14, 2005 11:15 pm
Posts: 7515
Location: Stantonsburg, NC
I pulled a cylinder head from a 1994 Hyundai Elantra with the DOHC 1.6. for those that don't know these have a smaller combustion chamber that bumps up the CR a bit but has the same size I/E ports as the 1g DSM head. The car only had 120k on it but it was still pretty nasty.

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In the past I have always just dropped my cylinder heads off at the machine shop and let them do it all. The last one that I got back just wasn't up to par in my opinion. I mean it looked nice and all but upon further inspection I still saw some gunk way down in the ports. They may have all been like that for all I know but this is the first time I noticed it. Also I can't remember exactly what they charged but it wasn't cheap. I figured I'd try my hand this time, pick up some more experience and save a few bucks. So after some searching online my brother helped me whip up a cheap spring compressor. We just extended a huge C clamp and found a suitable socket that would compress the spring retainer. It worked perfectly! So I had the head all torn down. I soaked it with degreaser and used my electric pressure washer. It was a filthy job but I was amazed at the results. I then took it back to the same machine shop lol and had them resurface it. That's something I neither had the skill or tools to do so I had them do it.

After a resurface and initial cleanup. It was cleaned a few more times after this before reassembly:

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I was doing some research and some people told me to pull all of the socket plugs on the head and clean in there very well. Again something I'm sure the local machine shop never did. Those plugs are in there super tight. I tried heat, made sure I had the right size socket and everything and still ended up stripping some of them and having to drill them out. So in doing so, I decided to go ahead and drill them to 10mm and ordered some 10mm 1.25 brass plugs to replace them with and re-tapped the holes. I purchased some of the long engine cleaning brushes and was amazed at what actually came out of there. Old dried up oil, it was nasty and I'm glad I took the advice.

So after everything was clean I bought some valve grinding compound in different grits. I used the drill and vacuum line method at first to lap them in and then switched to the lighter compound towards the end and did them by hand. Cleaned everything once again and reassembled it making sure the valves went back in exactly where they came out. Painted the outside and put the new plugs in with thread sealant and replaced the crusty old exhaust studs and nuts.

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A set of knockoff but good quality purple cam gears that I ordered from aliexpress for $55 shipped

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Here is a DSM VC that I stripped down, polished the letters and painted purple. I also picked up an aluminum spark plug cover from ebay that I had a guy make custom for me. I then wrapped it in 5d 4d carbon vinyl. Hopefully it'll hold up to the under hood temps, only time will tell.

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So there you have it. Months of work all wrapped up into a few tiny updates. I will try to get more motivated and get the head on and everything buttoned up.

_________________
93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 11:21 am 
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Joined: Sat May 14, 2005 11:15 pm
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Location: Stantonsburg, NC
Paint and bodywork is still a little bit down the road but I'm considering this color. Ford calls it frosted glass metallic and its from the newer escape and focus. It's in the same family as the original color on my car but much nicer looking IMO. We'll see.

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_________________
93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 11:42 am 
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The Silent Administrator
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 3:32 pm
Posts: 9524
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Better looking green/grey/silver than on the Subaru's. I just steered my folks away from the green and into the pearly white on the used Forester lineup.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 9:19 pm 
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CSM Junkie

Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 9:52 am
Posts: 552
Location: Astoria OR
you sir, are an inspiration! 2.4+small turbo that thing is going to be fun

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Black 1989 Colt GT with 4g61t. 200k miles and climbing. Rebuilt 2.0 in the works.....
14b, 450cc's, 3" exhaust, small fmic, all running on megasquirt version: DIYPNP
White 1992 colt-vista wagon 2.4, awd, auto (daily)
Keane


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 10:32 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 14, 2005 11:15 pm
Posts: 7515
Location: Stantonsburg, NC
Quote:
Better looking green/grey/silver than on the Subaru's. I just steered my folks away from the green and into the pearly white on the used Forester lineup.
I will be painting the engine bay, door jambs and trunk no matter what color I end up going with. Just thought this one was cool. Black of course is my favorite but this car is full of tiny dings and we all know black magnifies imperfections. My wife said to paint it white, which is good at hiding flaws. I plan to do my very best on the body work but no body is perfect. I have plenty of time to make my mind up here though so no real rush.

_________________
93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 10:34 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 14, 2005 11:15 pm
Posts: 7515
Location: Stantonsburg, NC
Quote:
you sir, are an inspiration! 2.4+small turbo that thing is going to be fun

Thanks! Glad to be back tinkering. It's been so long since I owned anything turbo it'll probably feel like 500hp. :lol:

_________________
93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 10:42 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 14, 2005 11:15 pm
Posts: 7515
Location: Stantonsburg, NC
I picked up a set of mint 16" Diamante wheels from one of my cousins for $75. I have the center caps as well, this was taken before they were stripped of the factory paint and pressure washed. Not sure what color to paint them either.

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Since my 4g has over 100k I figure it would be a good idea to replace the rear hubs. I picked up a pair of 92 sedan rear 4 x 114.3 hubs from Rockauto on closeout for $22 each.

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After a little time on the drill press, 5 lug rear hubs.

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_________________
93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 12:27 am 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood
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Joined: Fri Mar 22, 2013 2:25 am
Posts: 352
Location: Denver, Co
Quote:
In the past I have always just dropped my cylinder heads off at the machine shop and let them do it all. The last one that I got back just wasn't up to par in my opinion. I mean it looked nice and all but upon further inspection I still saw some gunk way down in the ports. They may have all been like that for all I know but this is the first time I noticed it. Also I can't remember exactly what they charged but it wasn't cheap. I figured I'd try my hand this time, pick up some more experience and save a few bucks. So after some searching online my brother helped me whip up a cheap spring compressor. We just extended a huge C clamp and found a suitable socket that would compress the spring retainer. It worked perfectly! So I had the head all torn down. I soaked it with degreaser and used my electric pressure washer. It was a filthy job but I was amazed at the results. I then took it back to the same machine shop lol and had them resurface it. That's something I neither had the skill or tools to do so I had them do it.

I have been doing my own heads since I learned, I had to fabricate my own tools to make it possible, the only thing that I don't like is that it takes some time and patience, especially when you are lapping new valves and the cleaning process, pretty much I just use the machine shop for decks, I let them redone a couple of heads before since I was in a hurry, but the results were not what I expected, definitely if you want to get it done right, do it yourself...

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91' Mitsubishi Colt 4G67T FWD "The Minion" - 12.26@118
94' Mitsubishi Galant GS 4g63 Swap "White Unicorn"
95' Eagle Talon Tsi FWD "Ernie's car" - 13.92@104 *Rest In Parts*


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 1:20 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 14, 2005 11:15 pm
Posts: 7515
Location: Stantonsburg, NC
Quote:
Definitely if you want to get it done right, do it yourself...
Exactly

_________________
93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 2:43 pm 
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Some call me a god
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Joined: Mon May 18, 2009 8:53 pm
Posts: 1494
Location: Seattle, WA
Curious how you drilled the holes for the 5 lug so precisely. Did you mount the center and simply rotate the hub to each position and drill press it so that each hole is exactly the same position from center? Do you plan to use a hub centric ring?

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89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 5:37 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 14, 2005 11:15 pm
Posts: 7515
Location: Stantonsburg, NC
Magic 8)

Just kidding man, here is a little write-up. Just for you...

http://www.4g61t.org/forum/viewtopic.ph ... 23#p324323

_________________
93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2016 8:00 am 
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Some call me a god
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Joined: Mon May 18, 2009 8:53 pm
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Location: Seattle, WA
Thanks for the write up! So the rotor self centers on the hub with no slop?

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89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2016 10:04 am 
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Joined: Sat May 14, 2005 11:15 pm
Posts: 7515
Location: Stantonsburg, NC
Yep, there is a lip on the hub that fits the rotor tightly. So that combined with the one stud holds it together well. I've probably drilled 5-10 sets like this with no issues.

_________________
93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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