UPDATE TIME:::::
So I blew the 20g sky high locked up and now is a really nice fancy desk ornament
I installed a small 16 that has no real miles on it. The intercooler piping is slap together and look horrible. I barely have enough room for the MAFs. I hope to rework some of this Friday night. The brake booster was not working so I started to replace it. First step remove the brake booster line. It hissed like no other. I and my buddy were confused. I installed the line and checked for holes the week before and found nothing. I started the car and guess what the brakes now work with the booster. I need to bleed the system of the brown brake fluid, but they work. Did you know for $100 you can order a new master cylinder, 2 rebuilt front calipers, 2 rebuilt wheel cylinders, and new shoes through Rockauto lol. I ordered it cause it was only $100 even though I will probably go with the expo knuckles. So brakes work for now.
So I had to grind around 4 to 5mm of the intermediate shaft off on the side that goes into the transmission. I also had to use a tungsten carbide drimmel bit to make the bracket holes lower. The Bracket holes lowered the bolt locations to center the intermediate shaft. If I didn't do this the intermediate shaft would have been pressed down and ate bearings. After drimmeling the holes, the intermediate shaft sat center up and down. Then came the problem of front to back. I had to shim the bracket to the block on the passenger side of the bracket by 3ish mm (2 harden washers). I then just tighten the passenger side bolt and measured from the block to the bracket for the driver side bolt. I used 7 harden washers for reference. I did this the entire time checking to see if the intermediate shaft was going to bind.
The driver side turbo colt cv axle was not long enough in my opinion. I notice with the wheel off and jacked that it stretched the boot of the cv axle pretty far. I installed a 2 sae 1in ID washer from Menards between the cv axle and wheel bearing. It worked great, but I still need to see what the boot looks like when the car is on the ground without the spacers. I just had to run to menards and I knew it would work. I had plenty of thread for the castle nut.
After all that we started to tune. It felt so so so nice to drive the car. We got all the low throttle fueling done and it drove like a champ around my neighborhood. It was time for some more aggressive pulls. Then we hear a coupler pop, checked and reinstalled. I did one more small pull and everything started to act crazy when I would hit the throttle more than 25%. It still drove fine on the way back just over a mile. We get it to my house and I am freaking what could be the problem. I blew a hole in one of the cheap 3in couplers I had from one of my old intercooler kit from 7 years ago. I had no 3in couplers nor did the parts stores have something long enough. I had to get back to Indy so I left for the weekend.
I checked the cvaxles and no leaks and nothing popped out. I thank God.
So I will post my findings on the cv axle in my other post later this week. The MD707184 seal worked perfect. The awd seal ID is a bit bigger than the MD707184 but not a noticeable amount unless looking for it like I was.
So I got a 22x10x1.75 core heat exchangers for the car. I also have 2 10in push fans for the front of the heat exchanger. I am going to have to use the 12in fan as a pull fan for the honda dual core radiator. My water temps for the weekend where at 216 or below. I only had a 10in push fan on it at the time. I am hoping the flow rate is the issue more than the size. I also don't know the thermostat temp also. I might put a lower thermostat in also.
a bunch, but lucky for him I have a dsm addiction and own my own graveyard practically. I thought that car was bad, but it was just finding all the parts due to I moved twice in 6months so I didn't know where anything is located. For this car, it was tracking down information and everyone seems to have a bit of a different way of doing it. 
