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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 7:26 pm 
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Location: Htown, TX
Pretty new manifold arrived today, it's a treadstone knockoff manifold but I'm very impressed with the quality of it. The exhaust ports are nice and big and it's beefy. I ported the T3 outlet a little and smoothed some of the casting but other then that it came good to go and you can't beat 190 shipped.
Image

Driveshaft all bolted in as you can see. It looks like it's at a bad angle in the picture but it is pretty damn straight in person. lol
Image

That's the how low it sits with the stock springs and AGX's. Like I said, I need to make some extensions.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 8:19 pm 
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Did you have to shorten the drive shaft? Looking good man :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 8:22 pm 
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No, I didn't, I meant to bring that up, thanks for asking!!

Sedan's do not need the driveshaft shortened. The wheel base difference between a DSM and sedan is only .5 inches (sedan is .5 shorter) and the joint at the rear of the driveshaft can take that up.

That was one question I had in my mind when starting the build and now it's answered. :lol:


Last edited by fastvtgsx on Thu Feb 18, 2010 11:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 8:50 pm 
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No, I didn't, I meant to bring that up, thanks for asking!!

Sedan's do not need the driveshaft shortened. The wheel base difference between a DSM and sedan is only .5 inches and the joint at the rear of the driveshaft can take that up.

That was one question I had in my mind when starting the build and now it's answered. :lol:


The reason I'm asking is because I don't have a colt but I have a 95 hyundai elantra 4 door sedan that I will be doing a awd swap soon and I noticed that you didn't mention anything about shortening the drive shaft. I'm curious to know if I will be running into a problem shorten or not :-? But what I do know is that my buddy has a GVR4 and my car is a tad shy from his car length wise. So I wonder if I'll be good not cutting the drive shaft,hummm.... :-k


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 8:51 pm 
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Is the wheelbase the same on both cars?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 9:32 pm 
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Quote:


The reason I'm asking is because I don't have a colt but I have a 95 hyundai elantra 4 door sedan that I will be doing a awd swap soon and I noticed that you didn't mention anything about shortening the drive shaft. I'm curious to know if I will be running into a problem shorten or not :-? But what I do know is that my buddy has a GVR4 and my car is a tad shy from his car length wise. So I wonder if I'll be good not cutting the drive shaft,hummm.... :-k
Quick google search came up with the 1st gen elentra wb being- 98.4 in, DSM wb is- 97.2 in. You might need to extend it actually. :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 9:34 pm 
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Knowing that you might be able to move the engine or rear end around a little bit to take up that slack. .5-.6 inches isn't too much of a difference.

EDIT: I really like the look of that manifold.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 9:58 pm 
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Knowing that you might be able to move the engine or rear end around a little bit to take up that slack. .5-.6 inches isn't too much of a difference.

From what Jason said if I recall, that in stock DSM/early EVOs form, that the rear end should be forward a bit rather than competently centered. I'm going to measure the wheel base from hub to hub on a DSM and compare it to the elantra, just to double check my measurements for this project,lol.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 11:31 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
Knowing that you might be able to move the engine or rear end around a little bit to take up that slack. .5-.6 inches isn't too much of a difference.

From what Jason said if I recall, that in stock DSM/early EVOs form, that the rear end should be forward a bit rather than competently centered. I'm going to measure the wheel base from hub to hub on a DSM and compare it to the elantra, just to double check my measurements for this project,lol.
The numbers for wheel base are correct, I can tell you that. You really can't mount the rearend much further forward then the stock location. The wheel is more forward then centered stock.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 11:50 pm 
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Since you have to make mounts to fit the engine if you really needed to you could move it back .5". My dad wants to do that with his 4g63 swap but I keep telling him it will put the axles out of alignment. /shrug I don't know it might have to be extended.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 11:40 am 
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Since you have to make mounts to fit the engine if you really needed to you could move it back .5". My dad wants to do that with his 4g63 swap but I keep telling him it will put the axles out of alignment. /shrug I don't know it might have to be extended.
You'd have to adjust all the mounts and then you might run into clearance issues with the back brace and steering rack plus the cv shafts will be out of wack. I'd just extend it if you had to.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 2:11 pm 
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Since you have to make mounts to fit the engine if you really needed to you could move it back .5". My dad wants to do that with his 4g63 swap but I keep telling him it will put the axles out of alignment. /shrug I don't know it might have to be extended.
Well in the hyundai elantra it already has a 4g67 (dohc 18) engine in it so the 4g63 will fit in there nicely besides making the front and rear brace for awd. I guess I'll only know when I start to tackle the job, but right now it's my DD and will be buying a truck soon so once that happens then she is coming off the road and in the shop :D :wink:


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 9:54 am 
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Location: Htown, TX
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HY35 compared to 6162e

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I will be spending some time in the garage today I think. haha


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 12:27 pm 
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Do us a favor, burn that blanket,lol j/k. Yeah man getting parts is always a good thing and are you selling the 6162e?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 1:26 pm 
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Ya, I'll be selling the 6162e. Did a quick mock up, I need to clock the whole turbo cartridge, as it sits now the oil return and feed are basically sideways. I also need a n/a water pump pipe, the compressor hits right were the old water lines connect. Either that or I'll just cut out the fitting part and weld in a patch. The downpipe is going to be tight, trying to figure out what I want to do with that. I really don't want to move the alternator and put a forward facing filter but I might have to.


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