Spring cleaning has me rethinking many things about the car.
First off I could never get my 02 sensor situation sorted. I will start with a fresh sensor, remove the wideband from the ECU input's entirely, and see what happens on a log.
I am going to order a new ntk narrowband sensor for main running signal to the ECU, and a new Bosch LSU4.2 wideband sensor for tuning input to the MTX-L.
Asked around and some are using the new MTX-L PLUS that comes with the newer, redesigned Bosch LSU4.9 sensor, but seems many are having issues with the sensor delicacy.
You can apparently updated the plug end and reflash the firmware in the MTX-L to use the newer LSU4.9 sensor, but I don't think I want to go to that hassle just yet.
Reasons why the LSU4.9 sensor is better, and a full comparison of the two generations of Bosch sensors and why they fail, 2 links:
http://www.nzefi.com/bosch-lsu-wide-ban ... lications/
https://www.ecotrons.com/accurate_lambd ... 2_sensors/
Next up are my thoughts on what I can do to return to better operation with regards to engine management and hardware/drivetrain changes to better suit my mood and the way the car actually gets driven.
The engine has always run a little funny, and it seems that tuners agree and the solution may be simple.
Run a narrow band sensor straight to the stock 02 input and use the wideband strictly as a comparison.
I was running narrow band sim, my signal for narrow band would no longer work with two different 02 sensors and even with rewiring a known good signal harness into place, no change.
Engine response and graphed output were showing a long or delayed swings in the 02 swing with for simulated output shows as 0.2V low and 0.8V high with nothing in between, so things just don't seem to jive very well with the engine management, or to what I would say is my liking. Tuners have said, straight narrow band input, which parts contradicts what Link says on their site about being able to use the sim function and just run a wideband ... maybe now we see why it can be done, but should be a last resort if something goes bad and you simply swap pins, if both are still wired in place.
Big changes will come in the form of clutch/pressure plate/flywheel change.
I would like to get back to a near stock pedal feel for the clutch. Heavy pressure plates are fine and will get you higher torque holding capacity, especially when used with higher friction disc/plate combinations.
My lightweight flywheel is great for quick shifting and does have a replaceable friction surface, but I would like to add some mass back into the rotating assembly.
I have never had the engine up past 7k, save for one spirited run to prove what it could do while tuning on the street, at night, on a cold evening.
Clutch has never been intentionally slipped, or to the drag strip. Never been launched, never been shifted at exceedingly high RPMS past OEM redline.
It will require longer bolts like those from Mitsu that RTM Racing.com sells, or in the case of what I will be re-using, the ARP's that also work for Toyota.
Home :: MITSUBISHI / EAGLE :: DSM: 1g (90-94) :: Drivetrain & Transmission :: Flywheel :: ARP Longer Flywheel Bolts: DSM
Not sure if I want to go back to 18-19lbs OEM flywheel weighting, but 11.9 lbs for an ACT Streetlite, sounds reasonable.
Looking into the possibility of getting a Fluidampr crank shaft harmonic dampener both for longevity of the dampener, and if it actually adds so mass compared to a stock damper, that remains to be seen.
If anyone knows the weight of a stock harmonic damper pulley, let me know!
Fluidampr states 7.x lbs statis, 5.x lbs rotating mass, as the design used plates internal pushing through a viscous liquid, so not all is considered rotating given the actions and physics that occur.
So, with a larger mass at the crankshaft/clutch rotating assembly, I hope to improve idle (maybe help with AC engagement bog and or alternator loading when fan(s) come on) as more mass is less likely to be affected by accessory engagement, and make for better low speed driveability. I still remember driving around with the 1.6L turbo motor on the 14b and how well it did in parking lot scenarios, at low speed before anything got swapped to 2.0t with cams and lightweight rotating parts. I will compromise with some more weight and a little less quick on the shifts at higher rpm. I honestly don't think the transmission is ever made for high rpm shifting anyways, so lets see what happens in the end.
I will have my parts for sale. They have worked flawlessly since installed in 2010; clutch/pressure plate/flywheel and have seen maybe 5000km's since being installed. They got a new ball and fork in 2010, and another new ball and fork in 2015 because I wanted to make sure things were good when I took the transmission down as part of the rebuild in 2015, with the head and stuff. Only the last 2k have been with the evo3 turbo and the boost has only ever been at 12psi, so this clutch has not even been stressed. This is the HD pressure plate model, so I'll list what is being used and what will be for sale.
Clutch plate and Pressure plate
HD/Perf Street Sprung - MB1-HDSS new price is $388.45 USD
What ACT has to say about it:
Product Weight (lbs.)
Sprung Street Disc
Pressure Plate Type
Input Shaft Diameter (Inches)
Torque Capacity Over OE
Torque Capacity (ft/lbs.)
Friction Surface Diameter (Inches)
Friction Surface Diameter (mm)
HD/Perf Street Sprung
https://www.advancedclutch.com/product/ ... mb1-hdss-2
MB1-HDSS kit features ACT's most popular Heavy Duty pressure plate and most popular street disc. ACT Heavy Duty pressure plates use exclusive diaphragm design to increase clamp load, reduce deflection and maximize clutch life. All diaphragms endure a four-stage, heat-treating process for unparalleled performance. ACT pressure plates have precision cover stampings to provide rigidity and consistency. ACT's Performance Street discs feature premium organic materials with high copper content for better heat transfer and steel-backed lining for greater burst strength and durability. These discs have reduced marcel for faster shift action to complement ACT pressure plates, with increased strength and reliability.
Feel: Light to moderate pedal effort, smooth positive engagement, OE to mild gear rattle;
Life: Longer friction life, extended by ACT's exclusive diaphragm design;
Quality: Carefully engineered, precisely assembled, accurately balanced, with premium organic friction materials for heat tolerance and reduced fade;
Recommended Use: Recommended for street and race use;
ACT Difference: 100% clamp load tested and dynamically computer balanced for smooth high RPM reliability;
Fidanza 161651 FWD DSM Summit Racing sells at $295 USD with free shipping to the 48
Manufacturer's Part Number:161651
Product Line:Fidanza Billet Aluminum Flywheels
Summit Racing Part Number:FIZ-161651
Ring Gear Tooth Quantity: 110-tooth
Flywheel Material: Billet aluminum
Engine Balance: Internal
Weight: 8.000 lbs.
Replaceable Friction Surface: Yes
Safety Rating: SFI 1.1
Quantity: Sold individually.
Notes: Fits turbo front-wheel drive models only.
Summit Racing has the proper picture and has this to say about them, as Fidanzas website has the wrong style picture:
Fidanza billet aluminum flywheels feature excellent heat dissipation and weight reduction. The replaceable friction surface is constructed from 1045 steel and attached with military-grade aerospace fasteners. These billet aluminum are manufactured from the highest quality 6061-T6 billet aluminum and feature a 1050 heat-treated steel ring gear that's pressed on and secured with Grade 8 button screws. They also use a stepped dowel system, so that when they're installed they are locked into place. No chromoly can compete with the awesome serviceability, strength, and superior design of the Fidanza billet aluminum flywheels.
The clutch is a 225mm contact area and the pressure plate is a 110 ring tooth count that fits FWD equipped manual transmission Mitsubishis.