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Specializing in the 3g CSM
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2016 10:59 pm 
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The Silent Administrator
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Scrat can now have a back scratch via proper JIS tipped screwdrivers. Nothing says luxury like using the proper Japanese Industrial Standard tips to take out your Japanese screws!

Who knew!

I think I bought nearly every combination that RevLimiter had for sale. Adam sent me a nice note with a thank you, two japanese chew candies and some coasters and a RevLimiter sticker.

Also, wrote my value for duty at slightly lower than it was in Canadian dollars .... like a whole lot lower, and this saved me money. Thank you Adam!!!

Vessel Screwdriver Madness!

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 9:51 pm 
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Tranmission shifter solid bushing replacement and clean/regrease.

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Oooooooh, what's this?

Booster action!

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Replacing this piece just before the sticker would have been completely correct about why I ordered this part.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 9:54 pm 
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 10:26 pm 
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Bought the following:

Size 8 Marine grade wide clamps
Gates 28409 White stripe standard heater hose 10mm-3/8" ID
1" diameter DEI tube heat wrap aluminized
Fender/bumper quick release straps in Titanium color (somewhat match my wheels should look okay against Silver H84 paint) because my fenders are all suffering at the body mount locations

With Expidited shipping on Amazon.ca, it all cost me roughly $200 CDN

Yes, for 50 feet of hose and some odds and ends that locals seem to be very inept at sourcing over the phone.

Done. Be here in one week or bust.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 8:08 am 
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How difficult was the booster to replace, remove dash?

Are you going to get a upgraded master to go with that pretty new booster, 3kgt vr4 perhaps?

Good choice on the Gates hose and DEI wraps.

_________________
89 Mirage Billet 20g 63t 12.4@120 417whp 400wtq @ English Racing.
89 Colt GT E316g
06 Silverado SS
07 ZX6R


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 6:24 pm 
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Booster sits on my bedroom chair at the moment.
Install comes this week as I have time to prep and paint the booster.
So far the brake master is removed and all those new metal lines I ordered from the UAE and Japan Mitsu holdings via Amayama.com, will join my proportioning valve to the master.

Yes, I got a brand new Cardone 1-1/16 master from a 3000 VR4/Stealth application. Boosters sometimes have dual ratios when used with ABS applications but the master was the same size IIRC. I figured the quad pistons up front would have been about the same as the 3000's were but I should sit down and compare. Anywho, it was that or the 1" master from the Diamante or maybe Galant (can't remember line fitment but suspect it was backwards on one feed), for more pressure but less fluid movement. This has been my dilemma for some time. Wish I had two cars, each with either a 1-1/16" or 1" master to see how it all feels. Then I would love to experiment with a high booster ratio type unit. Obviously the hatch weighs less than a Galant in AWD trim or Stealth in any variant, so don't necessarily need this much assist but I just want to go out and bed the pads, get me going and see how the balance feels front to back, and overall stopping distance. Wouldn't it be great if I could do a Road and Track or Car and Driver style brake distance test! ......


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 7:36 pm 
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Hoping dash doesn't have to come out in any shape or fashion. Probably glove box assembly.

Just ordered a "482" MAF, per keydiver aka DSMChips.com, the highest flowing MAF option that works with stock 4g61t or 1G intake snorkels; round intake side matches the rubber snorkel perfectly. This means I have 3 "609" MAFs to retire. One has been used for a few thousand kilometers, the other came in used from yard finds, so they will likely be for sale once I can get ECMLink scaled.
Two black ISC's inbound also. Time for that later.

So, I have to treat the pipe nipples for nearly every one of hose coolant connections as this winter with no coolant/water in the lines meant little/medium pits formed on all but the main water pump pipe. A little rust converter after sanding and some paint to treat it. Maybe I should get some POr15. Details details, hate leaks!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2016 11:38 pm 
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Okay, installed all the 3/8" hose and silicone lines that had perfect 90 degree angles to work with, and although one line (yes two sides of one piece of hose) took over an hour including oil filter removal (how did I get it so tight, it's brand new!), they are all now installed and have DEI heat sleeves (1"?) on any areas that go near the exhaust. Basically all the front side hoses.

Wrapped the 02 housing and the downpipe as far back as the flex, which on my setup is at the back 1/3 of the oil pan. I will re-install heat shielding also, because I dam well better not smoke an alternator ... to expensive ... but 2 year warranty (from WorldPac USA with roadside assistance no less! - tow to nearest repair center - READ capable DSM repair facility ..... ahem not likely).

Booster installed now and master all cinched in tight. Lines will get installed soon, two brand new lines to the prop valve, as they may get in the way of routing the secondary fuse block I run courtesy of a Jaguar that got cut down the middle of the car.

@ nocturnal - the booster came out and was only accessible in the back/inside firewall, by removing the spring clips that hold the black portion of the casing directly in line with the EVAP core. From there, the Evap core lines get "bent" or "massaged" because even with the push pins out and nuts that hold the case in place, I could not finnagle the lower half of the black cover, off. So, I installed a new clevis pin that was meant for my clutch pedal assembly pivot, but figured it is a twin, and I'm not going back in either! Painted the booster with chassis black paint from my brake/hub painting days; same stuff I likely have picture with product details. Takes a while to dry, but shiny and seems durable.

I call today progess. I followed all this up with a ride through downtown Ottawa ...... on my bicycle! Boooo-yaah!

So many more parts to install .... they just keep coming at me from my living room floor, tool bench ... the list goes on.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 5:03 pm 
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Got a "few" things done, others were just servicing old parts to maintain ... status quoe ...

Alternator in, wiring cleaned up.
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Re-pinned the alternator power/sensing circuit connector. One wire jacket was broken open and they had survived intact since new ... so a redo was in order.
Grabbed the wiring from a spare DSM/CSM harness ... probably from a 1.5L dash harness ...
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 5:25 pm 
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Installed metric rivet/nuts into the two holes for the alternator harness on the driver side frame. Lots of grease behind it, aluminum nuts.
Looks good, and now the broken harness ziptie-frame christmas tree pin can be forgotten.
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Pulled original twin alternator wire setup from the middle of the harness down to the alternator. Only piece left in the harness is from the RF headlight area to the now cut end, at the underhood fuse block.
Replaced my slightly short 4 awg wire that was there before but not inside the harness jacket, where it can be kept nice and clean and away from direct heat and vibration.
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Alternator connector redo reference. Just transfer over the rubber connector grommet and voila, you are in business. I tried to match the brassy looking type of coating also, but I may have used another type just because it was the same size of wire or larger.
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1992 Dodge Colt provided this little air dam piece! I think once trimmed to fit the intercooler pipes through it, air should be directed nicely to the condenser and not escape around the radiator near the passenger side frame rail the way it was previously.
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Here is a little something that just clicked in my mind when I was looking at Ebay for "clamps", to fit hoses and low and behold guess what popped into my mind when the photo appeared?

This should fit the 2" body of a coilover to make the brake lines fit nice and snug to the bracket, or rather the bracket fit nice and snug to the strut housing! BAM!!!! Just because no one has shown a picture of this exact part on their struts before, I figured I would have to make something work versus using the "spoon" brackets they feed you when you order the kits and say "make it work" and "buy new lines to make it work". I already have my lines thank you very much.

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This is how my AC evaporator core looked once I was able to access the brake booster bolts. I hope no one loses their AC charge by bending lines like I did! Be very aware of that fact if you attempt this. I only did that because the lower half of the box would not let go even with all the little tabs removed, bolts removed and plastic push pin retainers.
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Experiment "temporalis" to see if the 12" fan can be made to work with the stock turbo shroud with minimal workover. It did. Yes, that is household foam for your copper tubing in the ceiling/walls/floors. I can't get the aluminum race radiator in there just yet, as it will require lowering the lower mounts and possibly notching the cross member the sink the radiator low enought to clear the rad cap to hood clearance issue I can already forsee just by eyeballing things. Or holesaw the support on the hood. I thought you would like my first idea better.
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Voila, fan in place. It is held in by the three screws that hold the motor to the motor case. I enlarged the holes on the shroud side and things worked out well. It is now air tight around the outside area of the fan and it provides a "decent" transition into the fan blade area. Time will tell. If this works out well enough, then the aluminum rad idea will be overkill but might not be able to use the stock shroud. It is just so tight with the AC condenser that it could push the little round bulbous portion at the top driver side corner into the fins/rows of the radiator; so for now the stock type rad with top fitting that is internally the same as the 4g15 rad but has the "upsized" fitting feature as you push the top hose on further - then becomes 4g63 sized outer diameter. This is a full size rad from the Canadian 1992 Dodge Colt, but is an aftermarket replacement that included the unused transmission cooler fittings (which were in use for the auto trans).
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 26, 2016 5:32 pm 
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Pictured above is the original turbo rad that came with the car, used for fitment purposes.

Getting closer.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2016 8:53 pm 
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Did some wire diagram hunting and made this little comparison. The 1G/2G/3G parts were put together in keydivers thread on Galantvr4.org, and I added (because the 4g61t and 1G DSM plug are the same), the comparison to include the stock turbo Colt/Mirage C53A harness pins and colors. Because nobody ever has, nor posted a picture that I have seen. My blind assumption. So, here you go!

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Got the two genuine Mitsu ISC's in the mail with a 3G 482 MAF. Pin to pin, the 2G and 3G MAF are the same. So, I can transfer/copy the wires that would go the 2G MAF direct to the 3G plug and harness/pigtail! Voila! I have a little butchery in the harness that was an extension of the 1G style MAF plug to get it up to the 2G MAF where it has been sitting for 5+ years now. That is going in favor of the primered pipe you see in the photos, that the 482 snugly slides right over the top of. YES. Something was going right when Jon Reimer designed his system. A few tweaks and a custom silicone coupler from Ebay should do the trick. Time for measurement.

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Disregard the wire colors on the 1G style harness at the far left of the photo, as they could have been re-pinned wires to replace my old broken ones, and to create the extension.
The others however, are to show the evolution of my harness up to an airflow sensor that should flow almost as good as the Evo8.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 11:18 am 
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So, working like a rabid dog, I have been foaming at the teeth trying to finish up all the loose ends.

Wiring nearly sorted, intercooler in
GTi bumper in place but a little tight for my liking (as it was last time - okay for now)
Intercooler pipes in place and tight with T bolt clamps
Have to install and bleed the clutch hose - braided stainless 1G style - need rubber coated clamps to keep it in place and not allow it to rub anywhere again ... just saying that axles and braided lines don't mesh well ... no pun intended.
Adjust brake pedal free play to be tighter before putting evaporator core back in place
Install new OEM Mitsubishi outer tie rods that I clear coated because they looked so nice in silver plating

Close now ... I can feel it.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 2:01 pm 
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Nice been a long time coming and almost there which I'm sure is a good feeling. Hopefully everything goes smoothly from here on out.

_________________
'89 Summit Sedan AWD - 9.1 at 157
'92 Evo 1
'10 CTS-V


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 5:26 pm 
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Thanks, sadly it has been a long time ... but that means it will make me that much happier when it does get back out there!

Big photo dump, but I have a pop quiz for everyone.

What is different about this fuse block, pictured below:

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Hint comes in the form of this: crank windows and upgraded to GVR4 alternator. Ignore the relay in the DRL position, it is there for show.

P.S. Wiring will not show any "color", it will all be nicely covered in loom before finding a permanent home. Red wire is a section of wire I depinned from the spare CSM harness I pulled, and now connects to my fuel pump rewire headed back to the tank.


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