Why would you run 90 pounds of fluids instead of doing an air to air. Second you did say in one of you earlier posts that you water pump was being driven 18% over correct? (That may be cavitation city right there as coolant gets airated and doesnt spend enough time in block and radiator to cool them down) Third, I dont think you have all the air outta the lines considered they are snaking all under the chassis like that. And last, I think you had posted the you were running a -12 fitting off the pump??? Way to small..Its only 3/4 "...You need to find a -20 or something in that range.
http://www.gre6.com/ansize Screw quick change overs if ya cant keep the current set up cool. I did re-skim thru your posts, but I can see that you are having some issues up untill now. Im not bashing one bit and am the last person on here to have the right to do it, but just trying to get your mind going in a fresh direction. Step back and look...The answer is right before your eyes...You just dont see it yet.
BTW, that 145 coolant temp especially at the block is not good. Metal needs warmer temps to expand and seal then that. No wonder you pushing coolant at high rpm and low block temps.
Quote:
I am currently running 10.5 gallons of water to to 1.5-2 gallons of coolant.
I am driving the factory water pump directly off the crank. I had it this way on the car before adding the larger resevoir in the rear. It is at that time that the car started pushing coolant. I put a ton of miles on it with just the new small radiator. No problems. That is how I have narrowed it down to the new tank design. There is some kind of cavitation problem going on, and increases with rpm/water pump speed.
I am currently taking the car to 8500. I do not trust the stock valvetrain much more than that for too long a period.
The other day my coolant temps never got above 145*. And that is registered at the cylinder head/thermostat hosing. Which is generally 20-40* warmer than the water pump. So the block stays nice and cool.
I do not run a stock radiator. And have not for two years. I am now on a 7" tall aluminum setup. A full AN line system.
That thing you see in my pictures that is in the front of my car is actually my raidator. It is mounted out front to clear my new turbo. I run a water/air intercooler, so it sits above the transmission in the engine bay.
So, my radiator wsa actually 80% blocked from airflow. Even with the 12 gallon system, I was still having some issues once the tank got heat soaked. So the holes are out of neccessity.
All of this has been covered in detail along the way in this thread. This is my build thread.