4g61t.org

Small update. I gto all the last little details done tonight. I am just short the cylinder head now. I have all the parts to put the new head on. New used head bolts, head gasket, one more 10x1.25 stud, and the 2.0L intake completely assembled and ready to bolt on. That includes the coil pack, throttle body, map sensor, and vacuum lines. As soon as I get the head back it should fly together.

Only other detail I did tonight was get the front bumper ready for more airflow to the radiator. My radiator has 11 rows. Well, only two were seeing any airflow. So a little trimming was in order. I just have to take it apart and plasma cut the actual bumper some more. That is all for now.

Are you planning on shimming the valve springs while you have the head off??? You may want to consider it so you can drag 3rd and 4th out a little more.

1

are you using 2.0 intake mani on the 1.6?

No. It was a full 1.6L setup. I think I have proved that some serious power could be made. Had the head not lifted I was about to get the thing back to 30psi after the fuel pump rewire. But I think large port head is only going to help me.

The one 28psi pull I had the car was literally out of control. Dare I say almost too much car for me. ALMOST. I had to get out of it because it was so lean. But this holset woke up big time above 25psi.

Not bad. I was going to have my head ported when it was pulled but didnt think it would be worth it for the setup im running. Are you still going to be using the stock 1.6t cams?

I have had BC280's for almost a year. The car never had 1.6L cams in it since I have owned it. It had 13 bent valves when I got it. I just threw a head on it, and put in some old 2.0L cams I had laying around.

Got the car started tonight. Will update in the morning. I am sick and I am tired. Peace.

Got the car up to 20psi today. It appears there is some fuel in it. But a rewire is going to be in order. The new nicely ported 2.0L head is working out nicely. Unfortunately the car is still pusing coolant. I do not think it is related to combustion getting into the cooling system. I think it is an over pressurazation of the system. I think it needs a vent. So I am going to add another catch can to the cooling system. That should help. But I think the head gasket was a tad blown. But the new holes in the bumper actually allow the car to reduce its temperature while cruising. So that was a plus.

But the motor looked good with the head off. Nothing to indicate a damaged cylinder wall. The motor now has a 2.0L head and mitsu MLS gasket torqued to 120lb/ft. The airflow has gone up a bunch and the car is super smooth now. Much less effort is seems than the 1.6L head. It is crazy how smooth it is. I am now flowing 40lbs/min at 20psi. I am happy so far. Can't wait to rewire the pump and see what 25-30 psi feels like.

O Ring the block and be done with it

NO. That is not the point of keeping the stock motor in there. And if it came to something like that, I would do more than that. I would oring the block, then add a reciever groove in the head directly above that. HOlds like an SOB. BUt, when she lets go, things are bad. We found that out on the dyno. Ran super lean on the dyno and eventually melted a hole in the cylinder head.

And besides, I am not ready to take the motor out of the car. After more thinking last night, it actually may not be pushing this time. I checked the car last night, and the motor was still full of coolant. Se nothing pushed out of it. So it is possible that maybe it was just over filled(very likely) and the excess had just expanded out. Because I topped the motor and over flow off to the top with the car off and cold. So we will see. I am going to empty the over flow and test my theory.

nice to see steven, keep us posted over at the link forums, pm me over their if you plan to try that block ice, and the outcome of it.
Andrew.

No problem Andrew. For now, it is going to sit until I rewire the fuel pump. I am going to have to think this over. Talk it over with my friends.

Well, it is confirmed guys that I did NOT blow the head gasket. We have narrowed it down to the cooling system being over pressurized. The new head and gasket did not make it any better. The good news is now I have a really nice head and a MLS headgasket. And I feel better about the head being torqued to 120lb/ft rather than 105lb/ft. We have some ideas for the cooling system. Venting the system is the first step.

Steven

How many Rpms are you turning? Aftermarket pump? Should be no need to vent. The pressure in there increases the boiling point and BTW!!! distilled water plus water wetter to lubricate the moving parts is the best solution to cooling problems. Antifreeze is horrible and should not use it unless going below 35 degrees. I just added 3 degrees for buffer room there. Run straight water or distilled if you have really hard water and a 8 dollar bottle of "WATER WETTER"( TO LUBRICATE) from Autozone or Advanced or Checkers and be done with it. Temps will go down 30-40 degrees and you may be able to run your radiator cap open depending on the situation.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system7.htm

Looks like turbulence city to me. Way to fubar the airflow. The grill at speed is more than enough to feed the radiator. Lose the TRASH copper and brass piece and go aluminum. Dont frag me here , But think you may want to do this differently.

Rich

[/quote]