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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 7:03 pm 
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Can someone point me in the right direction on how to replace the valve stem seals on my car?

I looked in the archives and tried looking in the manuals section but could not find what I needed. My car burns a bit of oil and the guy I bought it from (Lilevo) said that he thinks they need to be replaced.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 9:56 pm 
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Lock the cam gears together with one of the available tools out there, screw in the hydraulic tensioner tool (threaded rod) to compress it, remove cam gears, pull cams, and thread a fitting with compressed air into each cylinder. Pop the valve springs off and swap the seals.

It can be done easily in a few hours.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 10:04 pm 
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What he said as I was typing this or .... read below.

You need to use compressed air with an adapter that plugs into the spark plug hole. This keeps the valves closed, assuming they are off their lobes/opening events entirely.
You will aleady have the valve cover off and are replacing the gasket with an OEM equivalent and inspecting the valve cover for cracks and stripped threads for the bolts that hold it into the head.
Use very little torque in a middle to outside/side to side fashion for torqueing the gasket down, in small steps. It is listed in low inch lbs.
Okay, next you have to compress the valve springs on the head - they make tools that work for the 4g6x heads, some elaborate, some not. Bit of research there needed, but a google search should yield something in short order.
Once you have the spring compressed, and air pressure still keeping the valve from dropping into the cylinder (best to orient piston as far up as possible and match the cam timing to what you need), then you can remove the two top keeper bits (may require a tap with a wooden mallet/plastic hammer, as they get stuck from a life under pressure.
Now you can release tension on the spring and viola, access to the stem seals. How you remove the seal is up to the internet, many ways to skin a car (metaphor, I like cats so ...).
When re-installing seals, they supply you with a tiny sleeve that goes over the tip of the valve stem, this keeps the valve stem seal from tearing as you install it! You can lubricate the inner working of the seal also, as things in the head should not be left completely dry. A slight preference on my part, but if no oil is there to begin with and a new seal is really tight ....
Reverse the spring removal and you can move onto the next one. Only 15 more to go!

With the head off, there is another tool that works like this too and keeps the valve compressed from the bottom, but you do need a compressed air source and lots of it potentially. Tiny pancake air compressor might not hack it ... I don't like the sound of valves dropping into a cylinder bore. No coming back from that one, without a head removal and timing job!

What are you symptoms? Smoke at idle, smoke on light accel or hard accel only? Color of smoke? Your rings and turbo could be using oil, so be sure to inspect the turbo inlet and air intake tubing. Excessive blowby could be coming in from the valve cover into the intake snorkel.

Report back and we will see what we can help with. A healthy motor can still consume oil and be doing just fine. Ask many owners of German engineering - AUDI/VW and MINI, or Dodge trucks (new ones), the list goes on.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 10:04 pm 
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If you go in there, perfect time to install new clean lifters!


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2016 10:14 pm 
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Turbo has been replaced, engine has low miles. It's definitely valve seals.

You can use a socket and hammer to pop the springs off.

To put them back together I've had great luck with this tool: https://store.snapon.com/Valve-Keeper-T ... 45403.aspx


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2016 4:59 am 
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Thanks for the help guys.


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