4g61t.org

Thanks for the R & D work, great job! I do have one request, im not clear on your description about reaming out the top hole 1/4". If you would be so kind to take a picture of this when u get the chance. Thnks

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My feedback thread:

http://www.4g61t.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=18146

I put one of my spare knuckles in the vise, and bolted my strut to it. I used a normal size bolt in the bottom, and a little 1/4" bolt in the top (like the kind you use a 7/16" socket on).

Like this:


Then I tightened the bottom bolt with an impact gun, and slid the 1/4" bolt out of the hole.

With the strut clamped in place on the junk steering knuckle, I ovaled out the hole on the strut just enough to fit the normal sized bolt in the top again. It only took a few minutes on each strut using a carbide bit on an angle head die grinder.

I haven't had it aligned yet, but according to my bubble level the camber is a little negative, and pretty close to where it was before. Like I said I have the camber plates installed for fine adjustments later.
Here's the only picture I have of them on the car so far sorry. My photographer got bored and bailed early during the build, and I forgot my camera today so you get cameraphone.

Ah ic, that diagram helps alot but did you really need to do that since you have camber plates anyway. Unless the camber plates don't have enough adjustment to them? And wouldn't the strut slide back to the same spot(original hole) in the long run causing the alignment to be off again? sorry im such a noob at suspension stuff. Did you have the original turbo brakes and upgraded to this? Is it really worth it to upgrade to this expo/dsm twin pot/vr4 rotor combo as opposed to just replacing my oem turbo brakes pads/rotors with the same.

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My feedback thread:

http://www.4g61t.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=18146

Yes I think I needed to do that because the top of the strut can only move about a half inch before the spring hits the strut tower. The Camber plates have tons of adjustment (almost a rediculous amount) but unless I have really skinny springs (like coilovers) the adjustment is useless.

No it won't move back after the bolts are tight, that's a widely recognized normal way to adjust camber. Besides, even with the bolts loose, the weight of the car would only hold it into place. As I stated before, I made the slot "just big enough to fit the bolt" in the adjusted position. The camber can't go any farther negative, and the weight of the car will prevent it from moving toward positive; besides I tightened the bolts.

Yes I had factory turbo brakes before. No I'm not sure If it's worth it to do any of the upgrades to this 20 year old shitbox. In fact I bought a turbo for it in 2008 that costed way more than the KBB value of the car. I suppose I could have replaced the brakes with more of the same, and I suppose captive rotors don't suck that bad. But why throw more good money after bad? This may have just been a symptom of worn out brakes, but I hated how when I accelerate from 0-112 then slam on the brakes, they would sometimes pulsate violently. Also, as of recently, the paint was burning off my front rotors, causing the vent area to rust. I figured these bigger ones won't get as hot.

Plus like I mentioned earlier, if you were really paranoid about the bolt moving just toss on a steel washer on each side and tack it in place after the car gets an alignment. Then there is no way it can move because you basically just moved the mounting holes.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

Here's some pictures; they're no Tonus pictures, so they don't make my car look good, but I suppose they show the general idea.





Setting the date on my camera now.

I have the same wheels but in black

I did pick up some Expo knuckles on my trip to the junkyard. Bill hasn't been out at all, so I'm not even messing with the 4g knuckles. I will also confirm that they bolt up and that DSM calipers will bolt to the knuckles. Coltfan is leaps and bounds ahead of me though. I'm not really trying to do a BBK (not yet anyway) like the thread is about, but I am trying to eliminate the captive rotors and upgrade to a vented disc, so it's kind of on topic. I'm very concerned about keeping my 13" wheels - mostly because I just put new Winterforce tires on last winter.

So I spent about an hour with my angle grinder getting 4G CSM calipers I had laying around to fit the Expo knuckle. The hubs on the Expo/DSM/GVR4 is a bit larger (114.3mm bolt circle) than those of the 4G (100mm bolt circle), so I had to take about 6mm of material from the middle of the 4G caliper bracket to clear the hub of the Expo knuckle. (On a sidenote, the Expo calipers are identical to single pot DSM calipers).

The big headache I've been dealing with is finding rotors. I've spent about 5 hours digging through wheel databases and Autozone's online parts comparing rotor dimensions. I've come across two different rotors that are close, but not exact. I may need to do some trimming or shimming to get them to fit. The first is rotor is from a 92ish Geo Metro Convertible. Second is from a 2000ish Nissan Sentra.

The reson I'm having so much trouble is because nearly every vehicle I've come across with under 14" wheels AND a 114.3mm bolt circle has a captive rotor. I'm going to order a pair of each rotor come Monday and see if either will work. I'll update my progress when I make some. I have been taking pictures, but haven't taken the time to upoload them yet.

I have a set of 14" meshies I can sell you. They have decent tires, and you could sell your 13s. I have no use for them anymore because of my new front brakes.

I appreciate the offer, but I all ready have some 14" wheels I'm going to put summer tires on.

If extensive modification to the rotors or hub faces is necessary, I'll probably just sell the 13's to try to recoup some cost and move on. I want to make sure the car is servicable without having to custom machine rotors every time I need to do brakes.

I had to work today and am going out of town for the next week, so my progess will be further delayed. Oh well, I'll get there.

If you have Expo knuckles then you can swap in GVr-4 hubs (if they aren't the same as Expo ones). Then you can fit regular Galant single piston calipers and rotors with 14" wheels. It would be a bolt on affair.

If you ever get wheels bigger than 14" then you'll also be free to swap in twin pot calipers and 276mm rotors with ease.

I would feel confident in assuming that the GVR4 hubs are identical to the Expo. Even if they aren't you don't need to swap the hubs to get the single pot calipers to fit. The Expo comes with single pot calipers all ready and they fit 14" wheels from the factory.

When I was at the yard pulling the knuckles, I checked the Expo calipers against a single pot DSM caliper and they look exactly the same - they bolt up to each other just fine.

I also pulled a set of twin piston caliper brackets and bolted them to the Expo hubs to take home. I just needed the brackets because I've had a set of the twin pot calipers I got a long time ago that didn't come with brackets.
That's the plan for my other Colt.

I'm going to pull another set of Expo knuckles on my next trip to the junkyard. I'll press out the Expo hub and replace them with DSM hubs. I'm sure they'll fit just fine but will have to confirm when I get around to it.

On another note, I picked up a Geo Metro Converible rotor today. My initial thoughts after measuring and test fitting some components are that I can probably make this work. Don't get me wrong - it's not a bolt on affair, but it's looking promising at this point.

I'll have some more info, progress, and pictures next time I post.

The DSM hubs will press right in for sure.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

So this leaves me confused, why can't you use single piston galant rotors or the (probably identical) expo rotors.

Maybe they won't clear 13" wheels, thats all that I can come up with.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual