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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 8:14 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2008 7:52 pm
Posts: 30
Location: Malaysia, Penang
Hi all,
Nice to meet you and this is the first time I visit here.

I'm using 4G61T from a Mirage Turbo. In fact, I'd transplant this engine into my car. :oops:

Well, this engine is running well since the beginning. But currently I face a problem (as per subject). I do not understand why it can happen. Please advice me... :prayer:

Current Car Mod : None. Everything in stock condition. Boosting level @ 0.5 bar / 7.25 PSI

Thanks in billion...
:prayer:
Best Regards,
Eric.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 9:12 pm 
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The happy administrator
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Location: Wisconsin
Please fill out your location in your profile. What is the exact problem? No power at very low rpm's? Your timing could be off or it could just be that it's a stock 1.6L at 2000rpms, it has no torque/power until the turbo spools at 3000 or so rpms.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 10:23 pm 
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I will fill up my profile. :D

I see. But that is a weird condition. When aircond is ON, it really difficult to run and feel heavy. Heavy in term of like sitting in a fully loaded bus... :-?

Below stat is my summary:- Please advice...

Image


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 11:17 pm 
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The 1.6l has very little power at that low of rpm to begin with, the air conditioning compressor takes about 10-15 hp to spin. Does the engine rpm change when you turn on the a/c? The ecu should compensate for the extra load on the engine by raising the rpms. If it doesn't, that may be your problem.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 12:29 am 
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Location: Malaysia, Penang
The RPM does decrease and ECU does help to increase the RPM.
Normal idling with aircond ON = 800+/-
Normal idling with aircond OFF = 1000+/-

I did discover something just now. When I ress my pedal (Throttle Level) around 10% or less, the car is moving smooth and easy. When full throttle, the car didn't want to moe at all (1500-2500 RPM) and RPM slowly increase until 3000, then start to feel power. During the deficiency stage @ low RPM, I can smell petrol. I have an idea, would it be cause by AFR too rich? If I add in a Fuel Regulator, can it solve this problem? By the way, is that any method to check fuel pressure?

Your help is highly appreciated. :prayer:

Best Regards,
Eric.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 11:17 am 
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Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
What is your base fuel pressure with the vacuum hose connected and disconnected?

Don't change to aftermarket parts until you know things are good.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 12:45 pm 
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When was the last time you replaced the spark plugs or plug wires? What about the air cleaner?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 3:24 pm 
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If your fuel pressure is too high, it can cause stumbling. Put the stock regulator back on if you have it. If not, get a fuel pressure gauge. It should be 38psi at idle.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 7:44 pm 
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Quote:
What is your base fuel pressure with the vacuum hose connected and disconnected?

Don't change to aftermarket parts until you know things are good.
I have to check it out. Now everything is in stock. Should be same as stock setting.
Quote:
When was the last time you replaced the spark plugs or plug wires? What about the air cleaner?
If not mistaken, it was last 4 service maintenance (5000KM once x 4 = 20000KM). I never change my plug wire. I'd changed my air filter last few weeks ago.
Quote:
If your fuel pressure is too high, it can cause stumbling. Put the stock regulator back on if you have it. If not, get a fuel pressure gauge. It should be 38psi at idle.
OKay. Thanks for the info.

Thanks for all the replies. :prayer:

Latest result :
The hard-er I press, the hard-er it moves.
The soft-er I press, the smooth-er it moves!
:-? :-?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 8:08 pm 
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Sounds a lot like your timing is off. Check your fuel pressure first and then check your timing.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 8:36 pm 
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Mind to share with me what do you mean timing? ignition timing?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 11:36 pm 
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Yes, and you have to ground the timing plug wire that comes off the firewall. This puts the ECU into base timing mode and keeps it from compensating when you move the CAS on the side of the head to establish proper physical timing changes. 5 degrees with timing connector grounded to a chassis ground. Remove the ground when you go out and test it.
Actual timing is sometimes around 10-12 degrees btdc.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:49 am 
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It's 10* btdc for a 63t, probably the same for the 1.6L.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 1:55 am 
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Location: Malaysia, Penang
Can you teach me step by step how to reset the ignition timing? :prayer:

Thank you very much. :D

Best Regards,
Eric.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 9:30 am 
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Quote:
Base ignition timing is 5 degrees and not 10 BTDC, this is with the timing plug grounded, actual timing with the plug ungrounded/ground removed, will be roughly 10-12 degrees BTDC as the ECU is automatically adjusting. If you have a motor setup to 10 degrees BTDC, let me know how your piston tops feel, and how knock is doing. :wink:


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