4g61t.org

It is exactly the same as the 1.5L motor except it is a 1.3L engine with c/r of 9.5:1 ........the engine code is 4g13P on a proton car....i plan to run 6-7psi on the engine but a lot of people tells me it wont work and will end up blowing up my engine...........there is a list of my setup below.so please , all advise is highly appreciated as i dont know whether to continue with this project or not...........

6-7psi running stock internals intercooled with a FMU and high flow fuel pump............what about ignition timing guys? i should back it up a little?....thanks.......

p/s: i will be posting a thorough guide if once my projects get started to help out others........note that i will have no device to control ignition timing.only an FMU......thanks

If done properly most engines can handle 6-7psi of intercooled boost.

I wouldn't even consider it without at least an egt gauge.

I recently turbocharged a 1998 VW golf motor with no changes at all to the bottom end, it runs 11psi daily at 10:1 compression with no issues at all (just pull the timing back and always run 94 octane). I think that the little proton engine should handle 6-7 psi with intercooling no problem at all. Pull back the timing, run good gas (always premium), and DEFINITELY get an EGT gauge. An Air/ Fuel gauge is good too, just to be safe.

_________________
Early 2000's: 1992 Summit sedan - 14.1 @ 100.9mph w/ 155/80 13s
2012: 1989 Dodge Colt GT Turbo - 14.9 @ 100mph, 10psi/s16G

A small T15 turbo from a Hyundai Scoupe or maybe even a T2 would work fine on the 1.3L. Although given that the 4G15s are so common and cheap why not swap to a 1.5L block? Otherwise I dont see any problems so long as you maintain correct fuelling. You can get an MSD ignition box with builtin boost retard which will handle that part of it for you.

Thanks a lot all for your precious reply..........

The thing is my daily temperature here is around 33 degree celcius daily , i think its considered a bit hot as i am in a tropical country ...

May i ask how is considered a properly setup turbo system?....is mine considered ok already or i should add more things.........what about the MAP sensor....should i put check valves there just to fool it?......

is it ok if i were to locate the intercooler inside the engine instead of front mount.........

oh by the way i got a mitsubishi TD04 at a cheap price so i guess i wil be using it......how do i reduce the boost level of the actuator......

really hope i can do things right but budget is kinda tight...im a cheap fella....hhaha....so i guess i wont be using the msd ignition box.........=) thanks

You can just retard the base ignition timing a few degrees which will mean you can run it a bit leaner under boost without detonating although the off boost response will suffer a little.

Yes you will need a one-way check valve on your stock MAP sensor since most N/A 1bar MAP sensors will stretch and go out of calibration if they see boost.

In any case I cant see you getting away without purchasing some kind of AFC interceptor style computer. Personally I would recommend the Unichip made by Dastek which in my mind is better than something like an Apexi S-AFC since you can adjust both fuel and ignition curves. It is harder to program but you will get better results by exactly controlling both fuel and ignition than just fuel alone.

hmm.....but right now im on a budget so i guess unichip will come in later after everything settle in.......=) thanks for the suggestion.....

right now i dont know how to adjust the boost on the actuator.... and dont know how much boost i should run........and a rising rate fuel pressure regulator as the only fuel management.so pls advise

Personally I dont think an RRFPR alone is gonna do the job for you. By saying that it wont do the job I mean you will probably destroy your motor fairly quickly. In reality it doesn't take long to turn a perfectly good motor into a sea-anchor if you dont have the tuning correct.

So in saying that, the first mod for your car should be the Unichip before you add anything else.

I think Ricehunter's 4G15 turbo setup is about as minimalist as you can get and still stay reasonably reliable. Here's the partslist from the other thread:

14b turbo
2g I/C
2 1/2 I/C piping
1g BOV
Stock DSM exhaust(will upgrade when i have more time)
4g Colt A/C fan (2" slimmer)
275cc injectors
1g Turbo DSM fuel pump
SAFC
Boost guage

Note the larger injectors and SAFC for extra fuelling and tuning control.

hmm....i dont see the reason why not since i will be going for a mere 6 psi only......and i have seen some projects utilizing them and they are running fine .........is there any other way other than using a SAFC?......the unichip is not programmable is it?

Vielside:

Yes you must het the unichip programmed by a Unichip shop it requires dyno runs etc to get the proper setup made...

What is SAFC? Is one required on any engine that has mods?

It's an Air-Fuel Converter, you can use it on a stock motor if you want. It will help get a better A/F ratio for more hp. It would be minimal for a N/A engine but if your running larger injectors (forced induction) then you need it to adjust fuel at idle, boost ect.. It alows you to adjust 8 rpm points at high and low throttle. Here's a link on how it works. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/newafc.htm