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Install of Evo3 16g on 4g61T
http://www.4g61t.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=20693		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  bfrontin [ Sun Mar 11, 2007 12:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Install of Evo3 16g on 4g61T
ok folks, when we're done, i'll give a more detailed account (with pics) of the process but as of right now, i'm pretty much done but having ONE major problem:

water lines placement!

apparently, the line i am using which taps off the water pipe on the block (going to the waterpump) is bouncing on the compressor wheel and not allowing both sides to bolt up. so if i bolt it up first to the pipe and place the turbo onto it, it cant pull up high enuff to bolt onto the centre cartridge.

if i bolt the end to the centre cartridge first, and then try to get the other end in the water pipe, its boucning again.

i am using 14b lines. and this is onto a 61T motor. i am wondering based on the location of the two holes, if the 63T had a nearer tap on the water pipe. the 61t tap is WAYYYYY off.

anyone with some ideas? would like to make headway this evening!

thanks!
Author:  89coltgt [ Sun Mar 11, 2007 12:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
Use a 90 4g63t water pipe?
Author:  bfrontin [ Sun Mar 11, 2007 12:35 pm ]
Post subject: 
http://forum.4g61t.org/viewtopic.php?t=4447

whoops :oops:

________________________________________________
To begin the install you will need to start off with modifying one part. The coolant feed line, part# MD140476, is not going to fit and needs to be cut. Then entire middle section needs to be removed so you can use the two separate ends. Where you cut it will depend on how you want to attach your new coolant hose. There are two ways to ensure your hose will stay mounted when you put it on. Either have the pipes beaded or flared. If you plan to bead it either with a bead roller or running a line of JB Weld on the pipe, I recommend cutting the pipes about the middle of the bend. That way it gives some direction to the hose. If you plan to flare it you'll need to cut it so all you have are straight sections. A flaring tool wont work otherwise. You also dont need to flare the pipes anymore than 1/16. In the end you should only need about an 8" section of 3/8 coolant/fuel hose to complete your new coolant feed line.

_____________________________________________

kno i saw this somewhere...is it possible to just hacksaw this thing and connect with hose and some hose clamps? must it be beaded or flared?
is this ABSOLUTELY necessary? if not, imma finish this by tonite!

thanks
Author:  bfrontin [ Sun Mar 11, 2007 12:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
beading is what? puttin little weld spots on the end (so it doesnt slip out the hose?)

i kno flaring will be widening the mouths of the cut ends...

anyone want to clear this up for me? similar issues? solutions?
Author:  89Mirageman [ Sun Mar 11, 2007 12:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yes by beading they mean to create a lip on the end of the pipe so that the hose won't slip off. Never knew you had to modify this on the 4G61T. Learn something new everyday I guess.
Author:  bfrontin [ Sun Mar 11, 2007 1:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Yes by beading they mean to create a lip on the end of the pipe so that the hose won't slip off. Never knew you had to modify this on the 4G61T. Learn something new everyday I guess.
ok..well i'll have to hold off today and get some wire braided hose tomorrow and also have the hose shop put a few beads for me.

so close, yet so far!

:(
Author:  Flying Eagle [ Sun Mar 11, 2007 1:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
My water piping is hacksawed (previous owner) to fit the 14b into the engine bay. I use a good section of trans fluid hose of the like, and a single clamp at either end. I figure I'm in enough to see when the hose will need to be changed again. Don't get a cheap hose though, as it will give up the ghost in a hurry with the heat of your turbo spoolin'.
Author:  bfrontin [ Mon Mar 12, 2007 10:03 am ]
Post subject: 
ok...sent the line off the chop up this morning. should have it back with about 12" of steel braided hose to play around with later.

i also ordered a new set of turbo to manifold bolts...(high temp black ones) and a lock washer each. hope this works as well or better than OEM, which i find looks a weak (used them for the 13g turbo/manifold).

i ordered a set of brass nuts (with washer built in) for the manifold to head bolt up. i think they are copper coated? could be wrong. but they were twice the price of the steel nuts..and i find my bolts keep backing off the manifold studs regularly..

do i need to support the base of the turbo to the block? just curious as to if this is the reason the nuts run slack!

more updates later..

8)
Author:  Flying Eagle [ Mon Mar 12, 2007 10:09 am ]
Post subject: 
The nuts for the exhaust manifold should be the copper looking type, and they are triangular if you look at the "squish" pattern at the top of the nut. This is the feature that makes them self locking, versus regular bolts that will keep backing off. Don't worry about support if you have a cast manifold.
Author:  bfrontin [ Mon Mar 12, 2007 10:21 pm ]
Post subject: 
well...im not too happy right bout now.

the hose people decided that they can only do steel braided lines if they brass on fittings to the ends of my existing line. so after my buddy showed them again and again where to cut, they didnt listen and ended up cutting the ends very close.

needless to say, the size of the fittings used made the whole line useless in its OEM form. i decided therefore to swap things around and run it to the back of the turbo and onto the water pipe on the block.

after MUCH labour and pain, i was able to rig it up but there are a lot of bends. nothing like a full 90 degree crimp, but there is a predominant 'S' bend and some crimpin to the ends themselves.

this is a teflon, steel braided hose. my question is, can this hose easily damage if it stays bent like this? was it bent in the process? or broken i should say? imma try to get some pics up ASAP so u guys can let me kno. dont wanna go forward and end up having a leak!!!
Author:  89Mirageman [ Mon Mar 12, 2007 11:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
Image

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Author:  bfrontin [ Mon Mar 12, 2007 11:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
thanks a mil Chris!

just talked to my buddy, we've decided to run some water thru the radiator hoses and hopefully some will pass thru the turbo? the idea is to determine whether ive damaged the teflon hose with these bends and crimps...

only alternative is to try and take it down and do the same water test to search out any leaks. it may be a PITA to get it back in tho!
Author:  bfrontin [ Tue Mar 13, 2007 7:37 am ]
Post subject: 
comments on how this hose looks please.

workable? damaged? try it? any ingenious ways to test it besides what was mentioned?

thanks!
Author:  89coltgt [ Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:54 am ]
Post subject: 
May as well try it since it is in there, it does look pretty flat throughout the bend, though.
Author:  bfrontin [ Tue Mar 13, 2007 11:49 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
May as well try it since it is in there, it does look pretty flat throughout the bend, though.
yup, that's exactly where my concern lies. its not fully depressed to have the hose closed off, but its pretty close. i also kno that the water doesnt really pass thru with high psi (maybe 8-15psi?) and its basically just for cooling purposes. the line also appears, SLIGHTLY larger in diameter than the original line.

i'm thinkin about tryin it, but have contacted the hose company for their opinion as well...i prefer to have this done properly as i dont wanna be below this engine again!
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