4g61t.org

I wouldn't drill the taper either, and I won't bother to voice my opinion on that technique.

Yoshifab makes them.

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"A good day racing is better than a great day fishing!"

Yoshifab made/makes camber plates. He is on this forum and has a website.

http://yoshifab.com/store/index.php?_a= ... oductId=31

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

So will the complete expo knuckles hubs and brakes bolt right on the 3g csm? Im just looking to loose the captive rotor setup.

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1992 Galant VR4 #680/1000 A few mods

Yeppers. You'll just need to slot your struts or get camber plates.

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"A good day racing is better than a great day fishing!"

Awesome! There a couple expos in the junk yard I'll snag the entire setup.

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1992 Galant VR4 #680/1000 A few mods

Some questions:

1. Expo AWD vs FWD knuckles must be like DSM knuckles, with the FWD steering arm in a different location than the AWD. Anyone verified this? Are the DSM knuckles the same part number?
2. DSM struts used on the CSM, does it work? Too long? Too stiff? If it works, do you still need to slot the strut holes or do they align?
3. Anyone made any generic measurement of the angle of the struts on the CSM vs DSM? How about stealth/3000gt? (leads to-would 3si stuff work?)
4. If you don't slot the struts, the wheels will leaning in or out?
5. Is there a combination of (2g front and rear spring/spring hats) or (1g rear springs/spring hats) and strut plates with the CSM struts that would work? I don't like the idea of slotting struts.
6. So, will the seal identified earlier in the thread to allow use of the CSM axle with the expo knuckle, work on the DSM knuckle?

I'm tired of the captured rotors and the bearings in the CSM's don't seem to last long on the roads in my area. I'd like to go to the DSM setup due to the ease of rotor changes and the volume of DSM tires/rims.

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

So, some more reading on here leads to this:

Use dsm/vr4 knuckles (or expo) and elantra control arms: Does it eliminate the need for the camber plates??

I would think the longer elantra arms would make you need the camber plates even more. Or take the cheap route and slot the lower strut mounting holes and put on some thick washers, then weld them up after an alignment.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

Yea, I think you are right. I didn't think that through.

ok this thread cought my attention

here is my dilema

a friend gave me a pair of dual piston calipers from a DSM, i remove the calipers from my mirage 1988 and the dual piston caliper fit perfectly to the mirage knuckles, i know for sure have to change the captive brake rotor .

my question : do i still need VR4 knuckles to make this big brake to work and if so why?

thanks

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1987 C10 mitsu mirage 2.0 turbo (mean sleeper) in rerstoration process

No. You need CSM wagon knuckles. They won't screw up your suspension geometry irrepairably, and the VR4 rotors you need will slip right on.

EDIT: Nevermind, I know nothing about the 88 model.

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"A good day racing is better than a great day fishing!"

mirage 88 has no Caster adjustment, only camber

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1987 C10 mitsu mirage 2.0 turbo (mean sleeper) in rerstoration process

Is there anything we can due with the back brakes? My piston kinda sticks so the car is sitting now. Is there a place they with rebuild the pistons for the back brake sor a place that sells them?

You really don't want to use the DSM/VR4 knuckles - they do not orient the outer tire rod end correctly like the Expo knuckles will.

I can also attest to the fact that the Elantra control arms will not correct the camber, even with lowering springs. I have been driving on the lowered Expo/Elantra combination for about 1.5 years now and still haven't corrected the camber. The only reason my tires aren't completely screwed is because I mostly drive the car to work (7 miles one way) and take corners so hard that it helps keep the wear even.