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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 11:18 am 
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Maybe they won't clear 13" wheels, thats all that I can come up with.
Oh yeah Doh! This is why I dropped English 102: (Interpretation and Comprehension of English Literature) Stuff slips right by me. LOL


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:16 pm 
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Quote:
Maybe they won't clear 13" wheels, thats all that I can come up with.
Oh yeah Doh! This is why I dropped English 102: (Interpretation and Comprehension of English Literature) Stuff slips right by me. LOL

:lol:

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 11:03 am 
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Location: Hemlock, MI
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So this leaves me confused, why can't you use single piston galant rotors or the (probably identical) expo rotors.
Quote:
Maybe they won't clear 13" wheels, thats all that I can come up with.
Actually, if we want to get technical here, the rotors will fit inside the OEM 13" steelies without issue. The actual reason I can't use those rotors is because they won't fit inside the 4g Mirage caliper when it's bolted to the expo hub. I just looked up some rotor specs on the Autozone website. The Expo & FWD DSM use a 256mm rotor. The GVR4 & AWD DSM use a 276mm rotor. The 4G CSM uses a 236mm rotor.

Odd... I thought the 1G FWD & AWD used the same brakes in the front. I might have to recheck a few things. I know I put AWD rotors on my NT FWD DSM... I wonder what part(s) of the full assemblies are actually different between the two (If any at all). Is it the caliper brackets, the mounting ears, the pads, or the calipers? The same differences probably exist between the Expo and GVR4 as well.

Now I've confused myself. I'm going to have to pull some more parts out of my collection and see if there are any real differences.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2010 11:31 am 
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All DSM's made before 93 used the same brakes up front, in 93 they started putting the twin pot calipers on the awd models only. So 93+ AWD's have the larger front rotors and calipers. All FWD's have the smaller front brakes whether they are turbo or na.

When you move up to the twin piston calipers everything is different. One look at them in person and you'll see why, they are huge compared to the fwd stuff. The brackets, pads and calipers are all different.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 7:12 am 
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Is twin pistons calipers and vr4 rotor need 15" and wheels at least?

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Colt92t: 12.71@107mph/ 1.8 60' on 22x8x15' slicks, 4g63t, 16g@15psi, FMIC, 3" TBE, K&N, EcmLink


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PostPosted: Mon May 31, 2010 8:09 am 
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Is twin pistons calipers and vr4 rotor need 15" and wheels at least?
Yes, 14's won't clear the caliper.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 5:11 am 
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What are the protection back plate you are using for rotor? Are those from colt turbo fit with vr4 rotor?

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Colt92t: 12.71@107mph/ 1.8 60' on 22x8x15' slicks, 4g63t, 16g@15psi, FMIC, 3" TBE, K&N, EcmLink


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 04, 2010 8:10 am 
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What are the protection back plate you are using for rotor? Are those from colt turbo fit with vr4 rotor?
I used the VR-4 backing plates with the Colt wagon knuckles. They were kinda tight compared to how they fit on VR-4/DSM knuckles, but I was able to mash them on there.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 12:03 pm 
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Can I use Expo hubs instead of VR4? Any knowned issues with axles and/or seals?

I actually have Expo knuckles and hubs.

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Colt92t: 12.71@107mph/ 1.8 60' on 22x8x15' slicks, 4g63t, 16g@15psi, FMIC, 3" TBE, K&N, EcmLink


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 4:34 pm 
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You can use the expo hubs/spindle assembly on a colt just fine. It will cause slight camber issues that can either be lived with or adjusted with camber bolts. I don't have the exact part numbers for the seals but it depends on which axles you are using. If you go 100% eclipse axles you should also be able to use 100% expo\eclipse seals (they are the same IIRC).

I have the expo spindle/eclipse axle on my car. 1000 miles and it still stops like a bad ass. Stops so fast I cant see straight sometimes :P


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 8:22 am 
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Quote:
Can I use Expo hubs instead of VR4? Any knowned issues with axles and/or seals?

I actually have Expo knuckles and hubs.
The seal you need to use expo hubs and CSM axles is National #225082; There's a picture of it on page one of this thread.

Just as an update: The Expo knuckles are working great (thanks again Chris), and it stops like crazy. I had it aligned, and they moved the tops of the struts in about a half inch, so I probably could have slotted the struts a tiny bit less.

No complaints though, everything is working great.

Ps. colt92t, the FWD Expo knuckles are far superior over Vr-4 knuckles because of virtually no bumpsteer, compared to the insane bumpsteer from Vr-4 knuckles.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 8:19 am 
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I'm almost ready to install. Thanks for your advices.

Wagon Hub & Knuckle (w/ new bearings and seals)
Image

VR4 & Talon Big brake kit (before painting)
Image

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Colt92t: 12.71@107mph/ 1.8 60' on 22x8x15' slicks, 4g63t, 16g@15psi, FMIC, 3" TBE, K&N, EcmLink


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 6:42 pm 
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Screw 13" wheels...

I'm about half-way through the swap right now. I'm just taking a break to eat some food. I'll come back on later and post pictures.

Used Expo hubs - $50 from junkyard
Used DSM calipers - had them laying around
New DSM pads - $20 from Autozone
New Expo rotors - $50 from Autozone
Used Elantra LCAs - $25 from junkyard
New Elantra LCA ball joints - $60 from Autozone
New CSM outer tie rod ends - $40 from Autozone
Used 240sx sway bar end links - had them laying around
Used 14" wheels - $50 from a pal & $1 for spray paint.
New hub centric rings - $10 from ebay
New Sumitomos - $200 from my local source
Brake Fluid - taken from my supply

Grand total: $505

So I've got about $500 into it so far. Wow...I shouldn't have added it all up. Good thing my wife isn't on this forum. :lol:

If anyone wants a set of 13" 1-winter-old Winterforce tires, let me know... I'm going to need some bigger winter shoes now.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 11:36 pm 
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First off, sorry I haven't been able to post pictures. I can't even get the stupid things to upload on my POS internet .

Second, I've been driving around for a little while with the new brakes. Of course, I took the car out and bedded the brakes right away by doing like eight 70-0mph braking sessions while making my way around the country block. The car definitely needs a bigger master cylinder now. The brakes are a bit mushy for my liking. However the car stops great!

The first thing I noticed when I first got the swap done though, was how completely out of whack the alignment was... I thought for sure I had put everything back in the same position - but even if I was off a little bit, it shouldn't have looked that crooked! I spent about 4 hours screwing around with the alignment. The camber is still really positive and I haven't really had a chance to mess with it. I'm going to go with the "bolt and slot" method hopefully on Wednesday. Then sometime in the next week or so take it in for a real alignment so I con't blast through my Sumitomos. I'm all ready starting to get some slight feathering from the toe being off-spec.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 8:17 am 
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Location: Plano, TX
Can you do it cheap and easy like this?
stock csm front spindles
slip floating gvr4 rotor over like galant
use diamate calipers with 6mm (1/4") steel plate spacers to move caliper out
15" or larger wheel

This way you don't have to mess with notching hub or swapping out other parts.

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