4g61t.org

ok folks, when we're done, i'll give a more detailed account (with pics) of the process but as of right now, i'm pretty much done but having ONE major problem:

water lines placement!

apparently, the line i am using which taps off the water pipe on the block (going to the waterpump) is bouncing on the compressor wheel and not allowing both sides to bolt up. so if i bolt it up first to the pipe and place the turbo onto it, it cant pull up high enuff to bolt onto the centre cartridge.

if i bolt the end to the centre cartridge first, and then try to get the other end in the water pipe, its boucning again.

i am using 14b lines. and this is onto a 61T motor. i am wondering based on the location of the two holes, if the 63T had a nearer tap on the water pipe. the 61t tap is WAYYYYY off.

anyone with some ideas? would like to make headway this evening!

thanks!

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96 Lancer Stationwagon - 4G61T swap (rebuilt) (4g67 head, 4g63 intake mani), 390cc's, ported exhaust mani/with 2.5" custom d/pipe, TD04-13g (ported), Greddy Emanage (Gold Edition), VR4 18x12x3 IC with custom piping/hose, SR-20 (Silvia) Recirc BOV, Walbro 255lph pump, custom 2.25" press bent de-cat exhaust, ACT 2100 (4g67 g/box), front EVO II brake/booster upgrade

Use a 90 4g63t water pipe?

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John
89 Colt GT(2)
88 d50 4g63t, crower 272's, dsmlink

http://forum.4g61t.org/viewtopic.php?t=4447

whoops

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To begin the install you will need to start off with modifying one part. The coolant feed line, part# MD140476, is not going to fit and needs to be cut. Then entire middle section needs to be removed so you can use the two separate ends. Where you cut it will depend on how you want to attach your new coolant hose. There are two ways to ensure your hose will stay mounted when you put it on. Either have the pipes beaded or flared. If you plan to bead it either with a bead roller or running a line of JB Weld on the pipe, I recommend cutting the pipes about the middle of the bend. That way it gives some direction to the hose. If you plan to flare it you'll need to cut it so all you have are straight sections. A flaring tool wont work otherwise. You also dont need to flare the pipes anymore than 1/16. In the end you should only need about an 8" section of 3/8 coolant/fuel hose to complete your new coolant feed line.

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kno i saw this somewhere...is it possible to just hacksaw this thing and connect with hose and some hose clamps? must it be beaded or flared?
is this ABSOLUTELY necessary? if not, imma finish this by tonite!

thanks

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96 Lancer Stationwagon - 4G61T swap (rebuilt) (4g67 head, 4g63 intake mani), 390cc's, ported exhaust mani/with 2.5" custom d/pipe, TD04-13g (ported), Greddy Emanage (Gold Edition), VR4 18x12x3 IC with custom piping/hose, SR-20 (Silvia) Recirc BOV, Walbro 255lph pump, custom 2.25" press bent de-cat exhaust, ACT 2100 (4g67 g/box), front EVO II brake/booster upgrade

beading is what? puttin little weld spots on the end (so it doesnt slip out the hose?)

i kno flaring will be widening the mouths of the cut ends...

anyone want to clear this up for me? similar issues? solutions?

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96 Lancer Stationwagon - 4G61T swap (rebuilt) (4g67 head, 4g63 intake mani), 390cc's, ported exhaust mani/with 2.5" custom d/pipe, TD04-13g (ported), Greddy Emanage (Gold Edition), VR4 18x12x3 IC with custom piping/hose, SR-20 (Silvia) Recirc BOV, Walbro 255lph pump, custom 2.25" press bent de-cat exhaust, ACT 2100 (4g67 g/box), front EVO II brake/booster upgrade

Yes by beading they mean to create a lip on the end of the pipe so that the hose won't slip off. Never knew you had to modify this on the 4G61T. Learn something new everyday I guess.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

ok..well i'll have to hold off today and get some wire braided hose tomorrow and also have the hose shop put a few beads for me.

so close, yet so far!

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96 Lancer Stationwagon - 4G61T swap (rebuilt) (4g67 head, 4g63 intake mani), 390cc's, ported exhaust mani/with 2.5" custom d/pipe, TD04-13g (ported), Greddy Emanage (Gold Edition), VR4 18x12x3 IC with custom piping/hose, SR-20 (Silvia) Recirc BOV, Walbro 255lph pump, custom 2.25" press bent de-cat exhaust, ACT 2100 (4g67 g/box), front EVO II brake/booster upgrade

My water piping is hacksawed (previous owner) to fit the 14b into the engine bay. I use a good section of trans fluid hose of the like, and a single clamp at either end. I figure I'm in enough to see when the hose will need to be changed again. Don't get a cheap hose though, as it will give up the ghost in a hurry with the heat of your turbo spoolin'.

ok...sent the line off the chop up this morning. should have it back with about 12" of steel braided hose to play around with later.

i also ordered a new set of turbo to manifold bolts...(high temp black ones) and a lock washer each. hope this works as well or better than OEM, which i find looks a weak (used them for the 13g turbo/manifold).

i ordered a set of brass nuts (with washer built in) for the manifold to head bolt up. i think they are copper coated? could be wrong. but they were twice the price of the steel nuts..and i find my bolts keep backing off the manifold studs regularly..

do i need to support the base of the turbo to the block? just curious as to if this is the reason the nuts run slack!

more updates later..

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96 Lancer Stationwagon - 4G61T swap (rebuilt) (4g67 head, 4g63 intake mani), 390cc's, ported exhaust mani/with 2.5" custom d/pipe, TD04-13g (ported), Greddy Emanage (Gold Edition), VR4 18x12x3 IC with custom piping/hose, SR-20 (Silvia) Recirc BOV, Walbro 255lph pump, custom 2.25" press bent de-cat exhaust, ACT 2100 (4g67 g/box), front EVO II brake/booster upgrade

The nuts for the exhaust manifold should be the copper looking type, and they are triangular if you look at the "squish" pattern at the top of the nut. This is the feature that makes them self locking, versus regular bolts that will keep backing off. Don't worry about support if you have a cast manifold.

well...im not too happy right bout now.

the hose people decided that they can only do steel braided lines if they brass on fittings to the ends of my existing line. so after my buddy showed them again and again where to cut, they didnt listen and ended up cutting the ends very close.

needless to say, the size of the fittings used made the whole line useless in its OEM form. i decided therefore to swap things around and run it to the back of the turbo and onto the water pipe on the block.

after MUCH labour and pain, i was able to rig it up but there are a lot of bends. nothing like a full 90 degree crimp, but there is a predominant 'S' bend and some crimpin to the ends themselves.

this is a teflon, steel braided hose. my question is, can this hose easily damage if it stays bent like this? was it bent in the process? or broken i should say? imma try to get some pics up ASAP so u guys can let me kno. dont wanna go forward and end up having a leak!!!

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96 Lancer Stationwagon - 4G61T swap (rebuilt) (4g67 head, 4g63 intake mani), 390cc's, ported exhaust mani/with 2.5" custom d/pipe, TD04-13g (ported), Greddy Emanage (Gold Edition), VR4 18x12x3 IC with custom piping/hose, SR-20 (Silvia) Recirc BOV, Walbro 255lph pump, custom 2.25" press bent de-cat exhaust, ACT 2100 (4g67 g/box), front EVO II brake/booster upgrade

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

thanks a mil Chris!

just talked to my buddy, we've decided to run some water thru the radiator hoses and hopefully some will pass thru the turbo? the idea is to determine whether ive damaged the teflon hose with these bends and crimps...

only alternative is to try and take it down and do the same water test to search out any leaks. it may be a PITA to get it back in tho!

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96 Lancer Stationwagon - 4G61T swap (rebuilt) (4g67 head, 4g63 intake mani), 390cc's, ported exhaust mani/with 2.5" custom d/pipe, TD04-13g (ported), Greddy Emanage (Gold Edition), VR4 18x12x3 IC with custom piping/hose, SR-20 (Silvia) Recirc BOV, Walbro 255lph pump, custom 2.25" press bent de-cat exhaust, ACT 2100 (4g67 g/box), front EVO II brake/booster upgrade

comments on how this hose looks please.

workable? damaged? try it? any ingenious ways to test it besides what was mentioned?

thanks!

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96 Lancer Stationwagon - 4G61T swap (rebuilt) (4g67 head, 4g63 intake mani), 390cc's, ported exhaust mani/with 2.5" custom d/pipe, TD04-13g (ported), Greddy Emanage (Gold Edition), VR4 18x12x3 IC with custom piping/hose, SR-20 (Silvia) Recirc BOV, Walbro 255lph pump, custom 2.25" press bent de-cat exhaust, ACT 2100 (4g67 g/box), front EVO II brake/booster upgrade

May as well try it since it is in there, it does look pretty flat throughout the bend, though.

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John
89 Colt GT(2)
88 d50 4g63t, crower 272's, dsmlink

yup, that's exactly where my concern lies. its not fully depressed to have the hose closed off, but its pretty close. i also kno that the water doesnt really pass thru with high psi (maybe 8-15psi?) and its basically just for cooling purposes. the line also appears, SLIGHTLY larger in diameter than the original line.

i'm thinkin about tryin it, but have contacted the hose company for their opinion as well...i prefer to have this done properly as i dont wanna be below this engine again!

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96 Lancer Stationwagon - 4G61T swap (rebuilt) (4g67 head, 4g63 intake mani), 390cc's, ported exhaust mani/with 2.5" custom d/pipe, TD04-13g (ported), Greddy Emanage (Gold Edition), VR4 18x12x3 IC with custom piping/hose, SR-20 (Silvia) Recirc BOV, Walbro 255lph pump, custom 2.25" press bent de-cat exhaust, ACT 2100 (4g67 g/box), front EVO II brake/booster upgrade