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I finally found a few hours to take my Colt to the dragstrip today. The car is full weight with A/C, P/S, all the crap I drive around with every day, about 8-10 gallons of 93, and even the child seat in the back.

First pass I ground second an did a 13.545 @ 105.95 with a 60' of 1.807

Second pass I launched too hard and spun all four tires, then shifted into second without enough speed: 13.460 @ 105.95, 60' was 1.963

Third pass: I hooked up pretty well and ran 13.195 @106.18, 60' was 1.860

Fourth pass: 13.060 @ 106.66, 60' was 1.823

Last year I had been consistently running 13.5, and my best et was 13.395 @ 107.44. I was really hoping to pull a 12.99 but it wasn't in the cards today. I should've emptied my trunk.

Does anyone have any advise on how to get an EIII 16g to pull 3000 pounds down the track faster on pump gas?

Every 100lbs is a tenth of a second. It will pull faster if it pulls less

But I want it all!
I'll hook up NTLS, and launch control, and leave the child seat at home next time.

Let me rephrase the question: How can I make more power? I can't seem to push past 18psi with 15* of timing without getting knock at the end of the track. I've tried colder plugs, more fuel, less fuel...

Are the ebay intercoolers junk? Mine isn't real big, and I wonder if it cools enough. My intake temps at the MAF go from 86*, to around 68* by the end of the track, but I have no idea what my actual air charge temp is. I'm contemplating water to air intercooling, or maybe alky injection. I'm not sure which will give me more bang for my buck. Or bang prevention, as the case my be. LOL

You can't run more then 15* of timing at 18psi?? Something doesn't seem right at all... I was running 22psi on a b16g using an almost stock 2g timing map with only a few counts of knock. What are your AFR's looking like? What size injectors are you using? What timing map are you running, 1g or 2g? Are you still using the 1g mas? If your still using the 1g mas that could easily be it. I would try switching to a 2g mas as well as a 2g timing map if your not already. Also, have you checked for boost leaks recently? A decent boost leak could explain some knock.

Right now I'm running my HY35 @ 21-22psi with no knock. 2g timing map lowered a little and smoothed out and using a GM mas. My AFR is really low though and I still need to do a bit of tuning but it shows you should have no problems maxing out that 16g on 93.

I have a 2g maf, and I tried to emulate the 2g timing map as well as I could with link V2.5, but I still got knock. My AFRs are 10.5:1 now, and it seems to be better than at 10:1, but it begins to show a little knock again if it goes up to 10.7:1. Keep in mind I have 9:1 pistons.

I really think my air charge is getting too hot. As for boost leaks, well... It started making this hissing noise under boost when I made my metal turbo inlet pipe, but boost leak tests at 25psi took several minutes to bleed down below 10psi, so I stopped checking that. Maybe I'll check that again. My injectors are FIC 650s. By the way, Link says I make over 400hp maybe it's my driving.

Hmmm.. that's odd that it makes the hissing under boost but not while leak testing it. Are you hooking up the tester to the turbo inlet or the piping? Maybe your j-pipe is leaking? Did you pop your hood after a run and feel the intake manifold and cold side piping? My ebay core keeps the intake manifold plenty cool. You probably would see some good results from meth injection, I've been flirting with the idea myself.

You should be fine with the 650s on a 16g so I don't think your having any fuel problems. Link is estimating really high IMO, if I was guessing your closer to 350 crank hp. I don't think it's your driving I trapped 8 mph faster with the same ET my first trip the the dragstrip as AWD. My clutch was slipping pretty bad so that probably had something to do with it.

what are you shifting it at?

I've been leak testing just after the j-pipe for covenience, but I've replaced the gasket once or twice, to remove the exhaust manifold and all looks good there. I even switched back and forth between BOVs because I have a fake g-reddy with a rubber o-ring seal, but it made no difference. I finally decided it must just be the megaphone effect from my intake pipe. That is when it started. I never did the feel test on the manifold; I always assumed it would just feel warm because it's in the engine bay.

I try to shift at around 7000, and my limiter is set to 7500.

I pulled the flames off my car to lighten it up, but it turns out vinyl flames aren't all that heavy. Here's a few photos of how it was when it went 13.060 in a 1/4:





I painted my wing satin black too. How is it?


I'm thinking maybe I need a lighter driver:

I don't see how the intercooler pipes running on top of the manifold is helping. Does it get hot as shit there?

I don't know much about turbo cars so don't mind me just curious.

I'm going to guess and say that the hotside routing is a big player in your knock. Is there anyway you can move the piping down under the manifold? I'm sure that pipe is scolding hot by the time your done the 1/4 mile.

Yeah I don't like that much either. I wrapped it in header tape, and aluminum tape, and up until I changed the manifold last Friday, I had a galvanized heat shield over the manifold. The FP manifold sits a lot closer to that pipe too.

It's just really crammed with my OEM Accord fans and P/S & A/C all in the way. It might be easier to run a water to air IC and just remove most of the air pipes from the car altogether.

I'm in a toss up between $299 for a water to air kit from siliconeintakes.com, or going with meth injection for upwards of $499 for a kit with a state of the art controller. Considering my hotpipe placement, the water to air is sounding better and better. But I never heard anyone rave about the huge gains from water to air, like you hear about meth injection.

On another note, I made a circuit today to reverse the polarity of my cruise clutch cutout wire. It allowed me to wire up NLTS and launch control without messing with my cruise control functionality .

I tested it out a little, and I think I'm going to break stuff if I use NLTS, but the launch control seems like it would be pretty sweet when I get used to it. It really starts to come alive with launch set at 4500 if I slip the clutch just right.

The NLTS is pretty harsh because it activates and drops RPM before the clutch is fully released. Anybody else have this problem?

Ya you have a ton of stuff in that mirage huh.. lol Anyway you can swap one of the fans to a slim one and put a J-pipe on?? The only real disadvantage with the water to air is you have to find more room for a heat exchanger, ice box, pump, etc. I really couldn't consider a water to air intercooler for a daily for that reason. That's just my opinion though.

Naah, just about 1000 pounds of stuff LOL. The pump and water lines are small, the heat exchanger will fit where my FMIC is, and do I really need an ice box? Won't it work as well or better than a FMIC on just water and antifreeze?

I don't have enough knowledge of water to air coolers to say.. From what I've read water to air is more efficient because there's less pressure drop and shorter routing. But as far as which one does a better job cooling air, IDK.