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PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:49 am 
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I dont know much about NLTS and your particular circuit but it sounds like it is trying to rev limit the moment the clutch is moved. Either adjust your clutch to a shorter throw or you would need to change how the circuit works. It sounds like the clutch is still 75% engaged and the rev limit kicks in. Just happening too fast is all. But too slow and you'll be in the next gear already.


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PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 9:48 pm 
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I don't have enough knowledge of water to air coolers to say.. From what I've read water to air is more efficient because there's less pressure drop and shorter routing. But as far as which one does a better job cooling air, IDK.
Less pressure drop would mean the turbo doesn't have to work as hard, so it's cooler air to start with. Another benefit I've heard, is that you get mare stable IAT's because it takes much longer to warm up the liquid than it does to heatsoak an air to air IC.
Quote:
I dont know much about NLTS and your particular circuit but it sounds like it is trying to rev limit the moment the clutch is moved. Either adjust your clutch to a shorter throw or you would need to change how the circuit works. It sounds like the clutch is still 75% engaged and the rev limit kicks in. Just happening too fast is all. But too slow and you'll be in the next gear already.
That's exactly what's happening.
I wired it to the criuse cutout switch like the ECMlink wiki describes. What sucks is that the switch doubles as the pedal stop, so if I move the switch in, I loose my freeplay and my clutch will slip for sure. I'm probably going to have to figure out a way to add another switch that I can adjust, but that doesn't interfere with the full travel of the pedal.


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PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 9:49 pm 
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any cheap way to setup a time delay box? add a delay to the nlts in the software?


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PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:07 pm 
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any cheap way to setup a time delay box? add a delay to the nlts in the software?
I just looked again, and there doesn't appear to be anything in the software to adress that issue. I really think a fully adjustable switch would be the most reliable solution. That way it shouldn't matter how fast or slow I push the clutch, just so long as I shift at the predetermined RPM. I guess I was hoping someone knew some easier method, because I can't be the first to run into this. I figure as the clutch wears out, the adjustment will constantly need to be backed out too.


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PostPosted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:47 pm 
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Have you looked around on the link forums?

I know lilevo ran nlts at some point but I dont know if it was link.


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PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 8:06 am 
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Have you looked around on the link forums?

I know lilevo ran nlts at some point but I dont know if it was link.
Yeah I read a lot of horror stories about pepole who have broken 5 built transmissions, and a few (like Biglady) who have no issues at all. No mention about adjustment, that I've seen so far.


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PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 9:21 am 
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Just curious what RPM you are shifting at and what RPM the NLTS is set to?


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PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 10:04 am 
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I shift at 6800-7000, and tried NLTS at 4000, 5000, 6000... It doesn't matter. The pedal has to travel several more inches before the clutch releases, so as long as it's set lower than my shift point, it's going to feel like fuel cut when I touch the clutch. It freaks me out when I'm not expecting it.

One guy on ECMlink forums said his 2g freaks out unless he sets his NLTS above his shift point. Probably the same issue.


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PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2010 10:43 am 
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Get a temp sensor in your upper IC pipe or TB elbow. If it's more than 10-20 degrees over ambient then your IC isn't working properly.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 9:25 pm 
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Get a temp sensor in your upper IC pipe or TB elbow. If it's more than 10-20 degrees over ambient then your IC isn't working properly.
Thanks Jayson, I finally took your advise and put a GM IAT in my uicp. I cut the end off a 3/8 pipe elbow, and welded it in because I couldn't find anyone with pipe thread bungs in my area.
I tested a couple different aftermarket sensors designed for an 88 Pontiac 6000, or a Grand National, (to name a couple aplications), and I found the Wells (AZ has 'em) responds quicker than a BWD brand. Looks like this:
Image
Last Wednesday I went to the track with my Modis metering the resistance of the sensor, and a chart to decipher the Ohmage into Tempage. I did eleven back to back runs with my best 1/4 ET being 12.794@108.22mph - 60'/1.783 - 1/8mi.-8.21@86.51.
My best 60' was 12.89@107.14mph - 60'/1.769 - 1/8mi.-8.27@85.94mph.
It was 69F* outside, and my upper intercooler pipe was flowing air that was at least 120F* by the end of the 1/4 mile. My ECU was pulling 3* of timing due to knock at the top of fourth gear.

I met a guy at the track who knew another guy who had a 600hp PTE FMIC for sale. He dropped it off to me last night, (Saturday) and I installed it this morning (Sunday) and headed to the track. As soon as I got on the interstate I could see this IC was going to help my ETs. The intake temps barely climbed, and the boost was spiking to 20 and holding to 18psi at redline.

I only had time to squeeze three passes in.
60'-1.804_1/8-8.29@87.06_1/4-12.73@110.87 already beat my best time, and UICP temps stone cold.
Second pass_60'-1.75_1/8-8.138@86.46_1/4-12.59@111.34 spinning hard in 1st, but with a suprize perfect 1-2 shift that felt like an automatic. I knew I was missing that shift but... "clunk" it was in and boost was still on. I was like "No way!"
Third and last pass_ 60'-1.84_1/8-8.02@87.89_1/4-12.44@111.80.
Intake air temps started to hit about 85*F after the second back to back pass (67* ambient out), so an improvement, but not spetacular. The flow was possibly the biggest help, as my boost pressure was no longer dropping like a stone above 5000 rpm.

That's over .3 seconds and around 3.5mph faster than my previous best and in only three passes! I'm pretty happy with it considering. If I didn't have to leave to go pick up my daughter I might have gone faster. Suddenly high 11s on nothing but pump gas and an EVOIII don't seem so unattainable.

Ps. The PTE FMIC... $100 Cha-ching!


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 26, 2010 10:47 pm 
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Nice job! So you switched your fmic and installed meth injection sense your last trip correct? How was your knock, I remember you were having an issue with it? How much timing up top were you able to run?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 11:55 am 
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Nlts shouldn't be on the top cruise switch, it should be on the switch at the bottom of the pedal travel


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 2:31 pm 
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Quote:
Nice job! So you switched your fmic and installed meth injection sense your last trip correct? How was your knock, I remember you were having an issue with it? How much timing up top were you able to run?
No meth, just pump Sunoco Ultra 93.
Quote:
Nlts shouldn't be on the top cruise switch, it should be on the switch at the bottom of the pedal travel
I'm pretty sure according to the ECMlink wiki it said the top switch. If it were the bottom, my engine would pop before the pedal reaches the switch. I put in my own switch and now it's in the middle at an adjustable height.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 9:55 pm 
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i put my own switch on a springy arm, the pedal has more travel than the switch, but in the end, it works perfect as nlts, but when i have anti lag on between shifts it still is a tad off and feels like i am downshfiting for a hundredth of a second after i am back on it.
nlts took off over .3 seconds and added about 1.2 mph in the 1/8th after it was adjusted out properly and i grew enough balls to keep my foot on the floor.

_________________
If speed kills, then i shoulda been dead awhile ago. There is no such thing as "Too Much Power". There is no excuse for a lost race. Do you view the rev limiter as a fun limiter?or as a shift point? And we all know, more boost=more fun.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 27, 2010 10:37 pm 
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That sounds like my switch. It's like this, but the arm is longer so I can bend/fine tune it. It's awesome when it's set up right isn't it?
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