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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 8:22 pm 
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Spends Too Much Time Under The Hood
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Location: Seattle, WA
this is my third time pulling and replacing the engine, every time i have pulled the trans off then pulled the engine, does anyone pull the engine and trans still bolted together?

never did it because the trans is so close to the frame already, but damn if it will work then it would make life so much easier

how do you all the bad asses do it?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 8:55 pm 
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I've done both, pretty sure of that.

Don't call me a bad-ass just yet, because I've been wandering around trying to figure out which is best too.

Last couple of times I worked on the car, the trans was in and out, or the head was coming off.

Pulling the motor with the transmission, is by far the best way to do this.

Being that the best way to pull everything is from the bottom (just like the factory would install it in reverse order), the complete assembly with the north south bar in place would come down

with the car poised above it.


To however, remove the motor with the car sitting at a reasonable height and for most home repair situations you will need the following.

A load leveller, likely available from Harbor Freight or the like, in my case here in Canada, Princess Auto.

See part here:

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Repa ... /1580009.p

So, remove your axles, wiring, fuel, vacuum hoses and mounts (etc, etc.), tilt to a near 45 degree angle and pull.

This should be considered just like taking out an inline drivetrain, ala RWD motor and trans attached to one another, and just being able to clear the rad support/grille.

Should be easier with the 4 cylinder.

Best to drain the oils first. :wink:


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 10:03 pm 
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I always try to pull and install the engine and trans together. It's a little tricky and you have to have the engine way up and the trans pointing down to get it to go under the frame rail. Leave the upper trans mounts off until you get it in place and then bolt them on. I install it from the top with a hoist and leave the x-member off and just hang the engine by the t-belt mount and trans mount. Then wiggle the x-member into place and bolt it all up. Not saying this is the best or easiest way to do it but it's always worked for me. Hopefully I'll be trying this method once again on my car here really soon. :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 1:29 am 
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Awesome guys I'm confident I can make it work 90% of the time I have no help so I install the engine then loosen the cross member to swivel the engine down then bench press the trans while swiveling and pushing. MAJOR PITA... I will try what you guys told me this time. And I have a hoody and balanced thing to angle the engine already. Engine should be going in this weekend and driving finally!!

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:49 am 
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An extra pair of hands really does help. Even if they're just helping you guide the engine in place or holding things like hoses or the wiring harness out of the way. A floor jack and a block of wood also come in handy for raising the trans up into place.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 7:13 am 
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If you're not dropping it out the bottom IMO it's best to separate the engine and trans, it's much easier, safer and you're unlikely to damage anything.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 3:44 pm 
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I pull/install both at the same time. Undo the harness, lift weight off mounts, unbolt mounts, pull out with some wiggling and maneuvering. Curiously, despite have half a dozen people that want to help with the Colt every time I do anything to it, every time the the engine and trans has come out and gone in, I've done it by myself. Even curiouser, even though I have a leveler, I've used a tow strap wrapped around the trans and the timing mount. It lets me position the straps just right to get just the right angle for removal.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:11 pm 
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I always pull engine and trans together if the engine is coming out. I come out the top with it. I never unbolt the cross-member either. The crank pulley taken off as well as the alternator to help with space... However I can have the trans itself out alone in like 30 minutes.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:37 pm 
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Engine and transmission together its easier if you want to pull the engine, tranmission only if you want to pull the transmission only, if its automatic sometimes is easier just pulling the engine

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 9:20 pm 
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Same here Mechacode, no leveler. I use a chain and just hook it closer to the right side of the engine so that the trans is angled down when it's jacked up.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 4:26 pm 
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I almost always drop both together, out the bottom. But I'm also AWD so I don't have to worry about a crossmember. When doing a clutch, I always found it to be a PITA to try to press/jack the transmission back in place. It is much easier to use a engine hoist and pull it up with that.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2014 4:30 pm 
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I always set the engine/trans on my work bench, and lift the car off of it. I always do it myself too, with no issues.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2014 9:18 pm 
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I just did this today, put the engine and trans in through the top. If you don't have any help, do not attempt to do it this way. :P

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 9:29 am 
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Location: Weatherford, TX
I usually pull both together from the top, install in reverse. I never seem to have extra hands, so I take extra care and go slowly. Haven't had a problem... yet. :D

I use bungee cords or removable zip ties to hold things out of the way, and check clearance every inch or two. I've never left the crossmember in actually, it's always hanging by only the trans and timing mount by the time I hook it up to the hoist. I do suggest removing the hood as well, unless it's a car you're scrapping.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 12:57 pm 
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Location: Cleveland, OH
I usually leave them together, pull out the top. Load leveler is necessary IMO

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