4g61t.org

So while I'm replacing brake hoses, sway bar bushings, end links I decide it would be a good time to install my acquired intermidiate shaft. There's a slight problem though:

Damn.. drill and use a tap to carefully get it out? that's a sad discovery for sure.

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1991 Mirage Se hatch, 4g63t. Rust.

Ouch, a PITA to get to as well. You need a right angle drill, a good bit and some patience. I would still be prepared to swear and throw a few things though.

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93 Mitsubishi Expo LRV 1.8/manual
95 Eagle Summit DL Coupe 1.5/manual
01 Mitsubishi Mirage ES Sedan 1.8/manual

You know Im always a little leary when removing or installing a intermidiate shaft. Still dont understand why the bolt arent just a tad beefier? I guess its good insurance to change out those bolts every go around?

There are ways around using an intermediate shaft all together. Might be better doing that and not risk the block.

And/or use some anti-seize.
It has the long shaft now, car gets squirrelly sometimes with third gear becoming somewhat scary. Drag radials have helped.
Sad and a PITA to say the least. I've drilled and tapped out broken bolts before, never on my back though. I need a lift for my garage!

which long shaft?

guys local to me remove the gt equal lengths in favor of the 1 piece solution, also, its expensive but the real solution to traction is a diff..

Interesting concept but then why did the factory bother with the equal half shafts? Not sure which long shaft but it measures ~32mm on the inner half and ~29mm
on the out half. Was wanting to reinstall A/C on this Colt so I would still need those darn broken bolts out.

Torque steer is annoying but can be controlled with forearms like Poppeye.

Weld on then weld a nut to it. Then heat and remove.

PULL THE ENGINE.

Only way to ensure you have a shot at doing a good job. And you can clean the motor while you are at it. As well as the engine bay.

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1985 Mitsubishi Cordia
Build in progress

That happened to mine because the a/c bracket was left off and they did not use spacers, causing it to be tweaked and eventually breaking both bolts . I used a right angle drill, and wounld never attempt that again, it fruit and banana sucked a big one. And one of the holes came out oval. Pull the engine

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Kristen Bond

89 Plymouth Colt GT
90 Talon TSI AWD
94 Montero

Try cutting a slit in it with a dremel and a cutoff wheel. Once you get it out, make sure you use a spacer (hardened washers and/or a/c bracket) and some grade 8 or stainless steel bolts with plenty of blue loctite, it'll hold it in and keep it from rust welding.
That sounds like the stupidest thing a person could do for traction. Are you sure they don't remove the long "omfg my arms hurt from the torque steer" axle for the short "I can launch at 5k and steer with one finger" axles?

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Had a:
1991 Eagle Summit ES Hatchback - 4g15 12v 5spd
1991 Dodge Colt -4g15 12v 4spd
Have a:
1978 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 468BBO TH350
Round 3:
1990 Dodge Colt-4G63T 5spd

The broke bolts seems too deep to cut a slit to get them out. Welding seems like an interesting idea, but a warning from a previous experience: my 1.5 Summit must have had the crank bolt fall out in the past as the crank end was rounded. The crank bolt was torqued to superman specs to "hold" it in place. Had my brother MIG weld the crank gear to the crank but since the MIG is reversed polarity, we ended up frying the ecu, doh!

Pulling the motor is the last thing I would want to do as I have 2 other projects in the garage taking up space (three if you count my wish for getting the Colt painted).

Drill a hole and use a Bolt extractor.


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CHICAG ... -Kit-1U298