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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 8:36 am 
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Location: Niagara Falls NY
Hello everyone

I have PM'd Yoshi about making a front lower tie bar for are cars and he has informed me to gauge interest and if its there he will start to produce these along with all the other products he makes for are cars.

For those of you that dont know what a lower tie bar is, It ties the lower control arm mounting bolts teogether and will help with chassis flex. If you have a front strut bar this piece would help that much more, I have some examples below used on fords to stop bump steer issues:

Image
Image
Image

So the altimate question is anyone else besides me intrested in this?
1. 16GColt
2. MattGSR (einphoenix@yahoo.com)


Post if you are,
Thanks


Last edited by 16gcolt on Wed Oct 13, 2010 7:58 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 10:03 am 
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I'd be interested in that. I know people use them on 1g and 2g FWD's.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 10:20 am 
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I would. I'd like to get a lower tie bar and upper strut bar for sure. Just gotta find the $. :(

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 1:48 pm 
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I'd buy one, assuming it doesn't totally screw ground clearance...

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 1:54 pm 
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im in for one

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 6:17 pm 
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Location: Albany, Or, U.S.A.
on mk1 vws this actually helps more than the upper bar because the cars were designed to take stress in that direction (up) but not to ake the "spreading" (minimal though it be) of the lower control arm mounts.

Here is a pic of my Neuspeed Heim-tensionable unit, its one of the nicer ones produced i the 90s: Image

Maybe yoshi could integrate that tensionable part. Does he have a mockup car to work with for clearance reasons?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 6:28 pm 
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Quote:

Maybe yoshi could integrate that tensionable part. Does he have a mockup car to work with for clearance reasons?
Yeah, he has Tonus' car for experiments.

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'19 M5 Comp
'07 997 Turbo, 1144WHP/1001WTQ
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 6:41 pm 
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Here is what ultimately what would make the job 100 % complete. This car was rallied by a member who isn't on here as much anymore. This car was built up with bracing at the lower mount points with thick steel and even braced from firewall to shock towers and along the A-pillars with swiss cheese braces. I have more photos of the rest of the car, but for now you can see what clearance is like with a 4g63 motor installed. Keep in mind that the front lower rad support appears somewhat different and probably was modified. I don't want this thread to get the product to look exactly like this, my intention is simply to show you what has worked in the past and was even part of keeping the car together, albeit not on the road or handling related, but when it was rolling over multiple times. As simple bar across will suffice and for those looking to modify further, it would make sense that they should take it to someone that can do the necessary mods in their local community. Shipping the large skinny piece is what keeps this part in the price range for most people. I have opted for the upper strut brace and it works great so far, and I have given Josh some feedback for the product as well. I would suggest that this product stay within the confines of a single bar from side to side at this point, I think we can all agree that this keeps things where this would continue to move things forward. If you feel differently, well this is why we have a forum, so speak now or forever hold your peace. :wink:

Rallyugy's lower strut brace workup.
Image

P.S. Please don't PM rallyguy about this because he isn't here much anymore. I have picture of more of the car, if and when it comes to a point where someone needs to see them again. 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 11:59 pm 
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Im thinking a single aluminum bar will be the best route. Keeping production costs within the means of the CSM community is key. I will try and get my hands on a car in the next week or so and get some designs drawn up.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 12:02 am 
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Quote:
Im thinking a single aluminum bar will be the best route. Keeping production costs within the means of the CSM community is key. I will try and get my hands on a car in the next week or so and get some designs drawn up.
You can have my POS as long as you need it as long as I get a yoshifab loaner car! :wink:

_________________
91 GSX - 511fwhp and 352 lb/ft 25psi 110 octane, 7.68 @ 95.9mph 1/8th 21psi 91 octane, 11.93 @ 112.9mph, 117.7mph best trap speed, 20psi 91 octane
98 Volvo S70 T5 - DD

http://www.facebook.com/captaintonus


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 12:15 am 
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I'm in for one of these if they end up getting made! (and if overseas shipping is an option)

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 12:51 am 
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This is exactly what I was going to do for my car. Our cars could really use something to sturdy the control arms.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 12:52 am 
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Quote:
I'm in for one of these if they end up getting made! (and if overseas shipping is an option)
I bet for the price that it would cost to have something like this shipped to you that you could probably have a local fab shop put something together instead and save a few bucks.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 12:57 am 
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We ship to NZ on a regular basis. I would guess $30-50 to ship this part.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 1:10 am 
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Cool, I don't mind paying $30-50 for shipping, saves the hassle of getting one custom made locally.

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1992 JZX91 2JZ powered Toyota Mark II


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